Pictures!

[Taylor]

if you sold pedals that looked like this all the time youd make a crapload of money, just cause people would love the boxes

...I think he does.  But I think people like them not only for the boxes.

[darron]

if you sold pedals that looked like this all the time youd make a crapload of money, just cause people would love the boxes

...I think he does.  But I think people like them not only for the boxes.

AND people are not paying a crapload of money either... Sigh. If only, I don't know, they were plastic with a fragile footswitch and added lots of modern hiss and were manufactured under strict SMD protocols... Maybe then they'd sell for more

[deadastronaut]

they were plastic with a fragile footswitch and added lots of modern hiss and were manufactured under strict SMD protocols... Maybe then they'd sell for more
[/quote]

i bought one of those for £2.560.00

[danielzink]

Aqua Puss Clone with double time mod and MN3005's










Dan

[darron]

Dan

i've never seen someone twist the 3pdt lugs... you're a braver man than i....

[John Lyons]

if you sold pedals that looked like this all the time youd make a crapload of money,
Sadly, no. Although it IS a crapload of work. 

AND people are not paying a crapload of money either... Sigh. If only, I don't know, they were plastic with a fragile footswitch and added lots of modern hiss and were manufactured under strict SMD protocols... Maybe then they'd sell for more

Yep...I should be making ipods. 

[jefe]

Use lacquer for a top coat and under the decal.
Lacquer will dissolve the decal and make the edges an imperfection mostly invisible. Spray a few light coats over the decal.

John.. stupid question: When you say to use lacquer UNDER the decal.. I'm assuming you spray the box with lacquer, let it dry, and then apply the decal over it? Or do you spray the bottom of the decal and let it dry? I'm just trying to figure out how to get lacquer under the decal, lol..

As always, thank you for sharing your secrets. Your builds are amazing, and it's very generous of you to share your methods.

[jefe]

Another amzazing application of what I'm assuming to be another waterslide decal. Dan, this looks so pro.. are using a similar method as John Lyons? Laser waterslide, lacquer, etc?

[danielzink]

Another amzazing application of what I'm assuming to be another waterslide decal. Dan, this looks so pro.. are using a similar method as John Lyons? Laser waterslide, lacquer, etc?

Yes. It's funny how sometimes you forget....this was actually the second time finishing this box. The first time I forgot to lay the initial coat of clear before setting the decal. Then when I did clear it - the paints reacted with each other and completely disfigured the decal. So I had to strip the enclosure and start all over.

I actually use enamel rather than laquer (this comes from painting cars for years - I have a personal bias against laquer).
But yes.
Paint your color clear it - wet sand it.
decal it. clear-clear,sand,clear.

Dan

[Slade]

Hey, danielzink, that's beautiful. I would love to hear some samples... would you?

[roseblood11]

Also, buy a small bottle of decal softener. It will soften the decals to conform to almost any surface.

True, I forgot about that stuff. I think it's diluted vinegar. Anyone know for sure?

I use a few drops of cheap vinegar. No need for the expensive "softener"

[John Lyons]

John.. stupid question: When you say to use lacquer UNDER the decal.. I'm assuming you spray the box with lacquer, let it dry, and then apply the decal over it? Or do you spray the bottom of the decal and let it dry?
Not a stupid question at all.

Here's how I do decals:
With a powder coated box I lightly buff until dull with #0000 steel wool.
This helps the decal hold better. With enamel spray paint I don't bother.
Degrease with denatured alcohol (dries fast, no residue, low odor.
Spray a light coat of lacquer over the top of the box or wherever decal will go.
(I use lacquer because it dries fast and melts the decal edge etc.)
I use clear laser decals (smallbear).
Soak and apply the decal. Letting the decal get nice and loose works better for me.
The more water the better, within reason. Slides easier and bubbles escape easier.
Squeege out the bubbles and excess water gently with a soft cotton folded cloth.
The folded cloth works like a flat squeege more than a wadded up cloth.
Be very gentle as the laser toner can come off, dab around those areas.
WHen the decal is drying you can poke the stubborn air bubbles with a razor knife
to let the air escape. A few little pokes and a dab with a cloth and they come right out.
After the decal is dry (I give it a few hours but my house is cold) I spray the decal
with a light coat of lacquer. Then take a razor knife and carefully cut out the
decal in the holes, pressing down for the cut only as not to lift the decal edge.
The spray one or two more coats. I liike semi-gloss finishes so the misting/light coats
help to get that softness and preserve any texture in the paint/powder coat.
If you get any imperfections you can lightly smooth them out with a thumnail or
light sanding with a brown paper bag or light grit sandpaper. Then another light coat
until you like the way it looks.
Voila!  

Thanks for the vinegar softener confirmation roseblood!

[jefe]

Ah, thank you John and Dan! I'll have to try the laser waterslides.

[slacker]

Ian, I'd be happy to help with your code if you post your experiments in the digital forum. I've done a lot of programming for this chip and it's the area in which I have the most to contribute to this forum.

Cheers mate, much appreciated.

[Barcode80]

John.. stupid question: When you say to use lacquer UNDER the decal.. I'm assuming you spray the box with lacquer, let it dry, and then apply the decal over it? Or do you spray the bottom of the decal and let it dry?
Not a stupid question at all.

Here's how I do decals:
With a powder coated box I lightly buff until dull with #0000 steel wool.
This helps the decal hold better. With enamel spray paint I don't bother.
Degrease with denatured alcohol (dries fast, no residue, low odor.
Spray a light coat of lacquer over the top of the box or wherever decal will go.
(I use lacquer because it dries fast and melts the decal edge etc.)
I use clear laser decals (smallbear).
Soak and apply the decal. Letting the decal get nice and loose works better for me.
The more water the better, within reason. Slides easier and bubbles escape easier.
Squeege out the bubbles and excess water gently with a soft cotton folded cloth.
The folded cloth works like a flat squeege more than a wadded up cloth.
Be very gentle as the laser toner can come off, dab around those areas.
WHen the decal is drying you can poke the stubborn air bubbles with a razor knife
to let the air escape. A few little pokes and a dab with a cloth and they come right out.
After the decal is dry (I give it a few hours but my house is cold) I spray the decal
with a light coat of lacquer. Then take a razor knife and carefully cut out the
decal in the holes, pressing down for the cut only as not to lift the decal edge.
The spray one or two more coats. I liike semi-gloss finishes so the misting/light coats
help to get that softness and preserve any texture in the paint/powder coat.
If you get any imperfections you can lightly smooth them out with a thumnail or
light sanding with a brown paper bag or light grit sandpaper. Then another light coat
until you like the way it looks.
Voila!  

Thanks for the vinegar softener confirmation roseblood!

To piggyback on the laser toner coming off, I have stopped this by applying a light coat of clear (in your case lacquer) on the decal paper before I soak it in water. It seals the toner onto the page so it won't flake off the decal. Keep it light though, just barely enough to cover the image.

[p_wats]

Hey guys,

It's been a while since I posted any pics, so here's the craziest pedal I've ever built: Dr. Quack + Modded Noise Ensemble + Modded Little Angel.

I changed the knob configuration slightly last night (moved one of the red knobs to a toggle---for delay weirdness on the Noise Ensemble---and gave the Little Angel an extra green knob---for intensity), but the sound sample posted on our band page is still pretty accurate in terms of how crazy this thing gets.

The Little Angel now has the following knobs: rate, delay time and modulation intensity. It can go from slight shimmer to full on drunken warble to lo-fi echo. Very fun.

The Noise Ensemble has volume, repeat level, delay time and a toggle for repeat craziness.

With all three effects on at once it really is glorious sonic chaos (the Dr. Quack doesn't like power supplies though...I always have that problem with auto wahs).

[~arph]

Wow, sounds killer!

I like the sound at the end the best, the Dr Q and the Little Angel I guess..

[p_wats]

Wow, sounds killer!

I like the sound at the end the best, the Dr Q and the Little Angel I guess..

Thanks! That combo is even crazier now that the Little Angel has an intensity control...sounds like a seasick drunken sailor!

[Fishface]

I like the sound at the end the best

I'll second that 

[ShortScaleMike]

Modified Professor Tweed JFET Tweed Amp Emulation (added Master volume so it can be Overdriven and a Lows control on the output), with a footswitchable Saltbooster Gain Boost.

Sounds @#$%ing amazing, like Neil Young in a box.