Pictures!

[LaceSensor]

How much do those AMZ switching devices run to?
Really like how you do the grounding thing between the jacks too.

[aflynt]

How much do those AMZ switching devices run to?
Really like how you do the grounding thing between the jacks too.

$8 for the board from AMZ if you buy 2 at a time, $5.49 for the components from Mouser, and $2.75 for the switch from Mammoth. So about $16.25 plus shipping for each. It's a bit of an expensive scheme, but I really like the feel and quietness of the momentary switches.

-Aaron

[azrael]

Shame AMZ doesn't have any more in stock.

[aflynt]

Shame AMZ doesn't have any more in stock.

Bummer. Hopefully he's going to have more made.

-Aaron

[LaceSensor]

yeah I love the idea of getting into soft switching but the cost of the raw parts is 3 to 4 x the cost of the solution I use now (quality Alpha DPDT with smooth action, Millenium 2 and custom DPDT daughter PCB)

[The Tone God]

The latest toy:







More info at the site for the curious

Andrew

[Renegadrian]

HOTTUBES, I like your pedals, simple appearance but so classy!!! They really look good and professional!!! Thumbs up!

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Beautiful work Andrew 

Any reason why you went with your logo going sideways on the touchplate?

[The Tone God]

Any reason why you went with your logo going sideways on the touchplate?

Thanks. A few reasons. It allowed for the logo to be larger when horizontal then if vertical. There is more room for error for the engraver then if it was small tight vertical logo and it doesn't cost much in terms of time, we are talking seconds here. Also there is no real "wrong" way to mount the plate. It works upside down or right side up where as if it was vertical there would be a wrong way which as history has taught me is something you only notice right at the end of assembly. It kinda of a last minute thing anyways. The plate just looks plain as a flat piece of metal so why not just slap a big logo on it.

Oh and its the same plate design from the full NerFuzz which has two plates usually set opposite to each other for distinction:



Andrew

[Pigyboy]

^and me. ..how do  you tighten those switch nuts tight without scratching the box finish?....

I cut a hole in a business card so it just slips around the nut then then socket or wrench can float over the finish protected by the paper. You still have to be careful but I have good results not scratching the finish. Another trick for stompswitches is to tighten it from the body of the switch. Align the nut on the top the way you want it to lay and then twist the switch in from the inside of the box. You have to re-orient the lay of the nut and switch as it begins to snug up to get the nut and switch to lay in the directions you want them to. When it comes to the last twist of the switch I use a spanner that fits good on the switch body. Again you have to be very careful not to stress the switch casing. This is the only way I have found to tighten switches up using the round, knurled Carling nuts without having to grab them with a pair of channel locks and crush up the knurling

[deadastronaut]

cheers chris, good idea with the card...i was looking at washers yesterday that will just raise it enough to not touch the case...

[egasimus]

How much do those AMZ switching devices run to?
Really like how you do the grounding thing between the jacks too.

$8 for the board from AMZ if you buy 2 at a time, $5.49 for the components from Mouser, and $2.75 for the switch from Mammoth. So about $16.25 plus shipping for each. It's a bit of an expensive scheme, but I really like the feel and quietness of the momentary switches.

-Aaron

I've always thought this to be overkill - wouldn't a simple flip-flop do basically the same thing, and in less space?

I really like the grounding between jacks, though. Might just steal that idea, if that's OK with you of course

[nordine]

Hey guys, some more stuff  
two delays

One with 2 inputs (mic and guitar)+feedback mods
2nd footswitch allows to cut the delay on ONE input, leaving just clean signal






Here a more elaborated one
Cheshire Cat customized, hand painted
features Two channel delay, toggle activable modulation on one channel,
switches for diodes on feedback path, regen path caps, and modulation
hird stompswitch is a momentary that does "infinite delay"/pseudoloop, thats when those mad eyes glow  

[egasimus]

^ The last pic is just plain crazy! If I ever make a delay with a fb/osc switch, I oughtta make sure I have a suitably creepy critter depicted on the enclosure.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Beautiful work!

Can you explain the reasoning for the bar/handle over the control knobs? Is it purely decorative?

Great job

[aflynt]

I really like the grounding between jacks, though. Might just steal that idea, if that's OK with you of course

No problem. I stole the idea from something Jack Orman posted somewhere anyway. 

-Aaron

[nordine]

^ The last pic is just plain crazy! If I ever make a delay with a fb/osc switch, I oughtta make sure I have a suitably creepy critter depicted on the enclosure.

yeah, i imagined a staring skinned badass terminator, red eyes glowing .."i'll be back" is a nice spin for delay as well

Beautiful work!

Can you explain the reasoning for the bar/handle over the control knobs? Is it purely decorative?

Great job

Thanks man!
Well that bar handle has some history: That pedal was made for a senior guy, so it had to be no-nonsense, and gotta keep his delay presets on place (ie. no full feedback psychosis), otherwise he might think he broke the damn pedal lol,

The other reason is i was after a fulltone tape delay look, it was going to be etched, bare aluminium+black, and nicely decored, but i couldnt get ahold of PNP, so what you see is what i came with in absense of PNP

[davent]

^and me. ..how do  you tighten those switch nuts tight without scratching the box finish?....

I cut a hole in a business card so it just slips around the nut then then socket or wrench can float over the finish protected by the paper. You still have to be careful but I have good results not scratching the finish. Another trick for stompswitches is to tighten it from the body of the switch. Align the nut on the top the way you want it to lay and then twist the switch in from the inside of the box. You have to re-orient the lay of the nut and switch as it begins to snug up to get the nut and switch to lay in the directions you want them to. When it comes to the last twist of the switch I use a spanner that fits good on the switch body. Again you have to be very careful not to stress the switch casing. This is the only way I have found to tighten switches up using the round, knurled Carling nuts without having to grab them with a pair of channel locks and crush up the knurling

A wrench like this one has worked well for dealing with those round knurled nuts.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Wrenches/ESP_Multi_Spanner.html?tab=Pictures#details

dave

[EATyourGuitar]

schematic
its a Nazo fuzz. thats japanese for strange/mysterious. etching drawn by hand in wax. I had to learn Japanese!

[Liquitone]

my latest (and favourite)