Pictures!

[Galego]

These will become more and more standard on stages everywhere, especially as the digital desks make it into pubs

Oh ok, I didn't know about those.

[G. Hoffman]

These will become more and more standard on stages everywhere, especially as the digital desks make it into pubs

Yup, that's what I was talking about.  One nice thing with those connectors, though, is that in a pinch you CAN use a normal RJ45 cable, but can use the "rugidized" connectors most of the time.


Gabriel

[DavenPaget]

Something i bought , from free electron's "nice board" post up : http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94949.msg822314#msg822314

[Magnus]

Hello together,
here's my latest pedal, an authentic TS808-Clone - "TUBESCREAMER TS808 authentic".

I already posted this pedal but now it is finished, I have build a new Pertinax-pcb
and installed a switch for sym. + asym. -clipping...

The Pertinax-pcb is a little thicker, so I could not close the enclosure-cover,
but no problem - I cutted a little window  








Greetings
Magnus

[tasos]

Really cool!

[bsmcc2010]

my second build-a SHO clone. It was my first time using waterside decals and i'm pretty pleased with how it turned out

[Galego]

Hello together,
here's my latest pedal, an authentic TS808-Clone - "TUBESCREAMER TS808 authentic".

I already posted this pedal but now it is finished, I have build a new Pertinax-pcb
and installed a switch for sym. + asym. -clipping...

The Pertinax-pcb is a little thicker, so I could not close the enclosure-cover,
but no problem - I cutted a little window  

Greetings
Magnus

I see you're trying to raise the TS-808 hype to whole new level hahaha

But what exactly do you mean by authentic? It doesn't seem any more or less authentic than the other gazillion clones everyone else has done (me included).

My first venture into smd (thanks mattthegamer463 for the push to get me into it):


It's my rework of the ISP decimator (no cmos switching and fewer ICs).

[DavenPaget]

Hello together,
here's my latest pedal, an authentic TS808-Clone - "TUBESCREAMER TS808 authentic".

I already posted this pedal but now it is finished, I have build a new Pertinax-pcb
and installed a switch for sym. + asym. -clipping...

The Pertinax-pcb is a little thicker, so I could not close the enclosure-cover,
but no problem - I cutted a little window  

Greetings
Magnus

I see you're trying to raise the TS-808 hype to whole new level hahaha

But what exactly do you mean by authentic? It doesn't seem any more or less authentic than the other gazillion clones everyone else has done (me included).

My first venture into smd (thanks mattthegamer463 for the push to get me into it):


It's my rework of the ISP decimator (no cmos switching and fewer ICs).

SMD Case D caps are cheaper man ... The diodes should have been SMD too .

[tyzjames]

Riot clone. Man, I was having such a hard time with this waterslide decal from Korea called Incal. I was using those bought from smallbear previously and those slide out very easily after soaking them for a while, but this particular brand the decal sticks quite stubbornly onto its backing paper. Any remedies?:S

[Earthscum]

. Man, I was having such a hard time with this waterslide decal from Korea called Incal. I was using those bought from smallbear previously and those slide out very easily after soaking them for a while, but this particular brand the decal sticks quite stubbornly onto its backing paper. Any remedies?:S

Warm water. Like almost hot, but you could put your hand in it and pee yourself. When I was a kid the waterslide decals that came with the "off-brand" plastic models were crappy, and I would find myself buckling them, or essentially shredding the backing paper into several layers before the decal would come off. I started using really warm water and it helped a bunch. Basically, the backing paper has to soak up the water, and the cheaper backing papers are coated, which inhibits this. It seems like it's the same paper that is used for vinyl decal stock, and I really wouldn't be surprised if it was.

ETA: Forgot to say... I love the aged paint job! Very subtle and "grunge", but doesn't look totally abused... just well loved.

[kungpow79]

Xmas gift for my friend.  Paint is called 'oregano' 

[dule88]

My first project - a PT-80 Delay, from GGG...

                                                                


...more photos on: https://plus.google.com/photos/118405950026447734540/albums/5659171702945039265

[Taylor]

Dule88, I would say that that was really cool if it was your 20th project. But for it to be your first...? Amazing job!

I think I've said something to this effect before, but looking back at the beginning of this thread and comparing to today, you get a sense of how the bar continues to be raised.

[Galego]

SMD Case D caps are cheaper man ... The diodes should have been SMD too .

One step at a time, and the point was to make it smaller, not to only use smd.

[deadastronaut]

@duel88....yeah really cool....first project?...amazing job....love it..

edit: just noticed the batt compartment...cool.

[Slade]

My first project - a PT-80 Delay, from GGG...

Really cool... I like the use for the Soul Reaver font!!
Congrats!

[dule88]

Thanks a lot. Yeah, it's my first one. I modded my EH Small Clone before, but I started this from scratch. Etched my first PCB, and than I saw etched enclosures on this forum, and gave it a try, but I used titan-zinc sheet and nitric acid...
I'm pretty satisfied how it turned out, and will surely go for something new, I saw some great ideas and designs on this tread...

[Magnus]

Hello,

Really cool! Cool

Thank you  

But what exactly do you mean by authentic? It doesn't seem any more or less authentic than the other gazillion clones everyone else has done (me included).

Here are some specs:
- Original old JRC4558D (4 letter-coding, shiny surface, Japan Radio Corporation)
- Original clipping-diodes: 1S1588
- Input-, Output-buffer-transistors: 2SC1815
- Tantal-caps, Polyester-caps
- Nichicon-electrolytics
- Pertinax-PCB
- green resistors

I think its more authentic than other clones...
...and it looks more like an old TS-pcb


Greetings
Magnus

[Galego]

Here are some specs:
- Original old JRC4558D (4 letter-coding, shiny surface, Japan Radio Corporation)
- Original clipping-diodes: 1S1588
- Input-, Output-buffer-transistors: 2SC1815
- Tantal-caps, Polyester-caps
- Nichicon-electrolytics
- Pertinax-PCB
- green resistors

I think its more authentic than other clones...
...and it looks more like an old TS-pcb


Greetings
Magnus

The TS-808 pcb is nothing like that... Also, where's the Fet switching circuit? Yours is true-bypass. Sorry, it failed on the authenticity check. 

I'm just pulling your chain. 

[deadastronaut]

heres a picture of a dead fish if anyone needs one...