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Started by Hal, August 23, 2005, 01:58:47 PM

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italianguy63

Jimbo-- that's cool.  The stuff people do around here amazes me.

John-- you should get a good handful of these from me!

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=107187.0

Even if you don't use the LED, it would be easier than cutting up veros?!  MC
I used to really be with it!  That is, until they changed what "it" is.  Now, I can't find it.  And, I'm scared!  --  Homer Simpson's dad

Frances Rhodes

Quote from: Mustachio on June 20, 2014, 03:27:25 AM
I got myself a cnc machine not long ago and have been learning and building different things with it. Last night I milled my first successful pcb with it. I've milled a few others as tests that may have worked but I wasn't happy with them overall. This one was a lot better although I will probably do the next few tests with less passes. This was at 5 passes.




hi mustachio!

i have been looking for information about cnc engraving to make circuit boards without the use of chemicals for a little while and found a fab lab near where i live, but their results are really poor (this is really not their main preoccupation there...), may i ask what "drill" bit you use and what your process is?

cheers
"If it's too loud, you're not too old, it's Alancka Effectors."

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Jdansti

@Jim-Thanks-yeah, that's a pour-on. It was nice having that wooden lip around the edge and not have to worry about the sides. I calculated the volume of epoxy that I'd need to give me a 2mm coat. I should have made it 1 or 1.5mm because I was barely able to get the pot nuts to thread. I had to thin the epoxy on some holes with an Exacto knife. Also, to get a nice even coat, I predrilled the chassis but didn't cut out the holes in the overlay until I had applied the epoxy. I used the knife for that also, and it was easy to cut through. I felt that there would be way too many holes to get an even coat if I had cut the overlay first.

@Mark-those little PCBs would have saved me a lot of effort!  I'll PM you for a purchase. Thanks for letting me know!
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R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

Mustachio

Nice John, I usually do the same thing and leave the graphics paper over the holes when I do the pour. But I just use the drill press again to clear the holes of the epoxy and paper. It really turned out great man!


Frances , I'll write up what info I know so far in a new thread in the main - building your own stomp box - section later today, I don't want to muck up the pictures thread.
"Hhhhhhhnnnnnnnnnnnnngggggggg"

davent

#24244
Jim that milled board looks fantastic, the clean lines, the depth of the cut makes the traces look like massive chunks of copper instead of the thin plating that it is. That and the resulting carbon fiber look of the fiberglass.. very nasty! Great look.
dave

Needs to be on this page too.

Quote from: Mustachio on June 20, 2014, 03:27:25 AM




"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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Jdansti

Thanks, Jim.

+1 on the board. I'd like to know more about your CNC machine too. Looking forward to a thread about it. :)
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R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

deadastronaut

+1..cool cnc stuff jim. 8)
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

amptramp



I like the CNC dragon the circuit board is sitting on.  You could get fantastic etch patterns without doing any etching or toner transfer or other steps that tend to go wrong as often as right.

Mustachio

Hey Thanks guys!

Thanks John , I just started a new thread. If you have any questions shoot me a pm.

Rob not sure if the board layout look's familiar to you , but its your spitfire v3 I redrew in eagle! I have been wanting to build this for a long time!

Dave I love how the trace depth pops out too! Although I think the isolation was a little too much, Truthfully after the second pass it looked good enough to solder. Still gotta experiment, and that carbon fiber look is just the nature of the bit but I like it too :)

Thanks Amp, I think that dragon came from a Chinese menu I tried to convert to a vector but the face had too much detail in the face for the bit and depth I used, Also that wood I used was a bit "flakey". I'm really hoping I can get some good engravings on enclosures soon.
"Hhhhhhhnnnnnnnnnnnnngggggggg"

peterg

A simple fuzz box. The circuit is 3 cascading LPB circuits with a tone control at the front end and a blend contol. The input cap is a 102. The tone control dials in or out a 10uF cap.  With the blend at 0 only the first LPB is running and at 10 the complete circuit is on full. The box is a reverse etch.

momo

Wow, thats a really cool layout!
"Alas to those who die with their song still in them."

pickdropper

Peterg, that's beautiful.  It looks like a jewelry box.

fuzzmonger

Quote from: loylo on June 19, 2014, 10:57:06 AM
Very nice job, Fuzzmonger!  :icon_biggrin:
I can find Rustoleum Textured paint localy, so I'm eager to know how do you rate the durability of this finish.
I understand that you didn't use any primer. Are there risks of chipping as we can find with regular aluminium enclosure finish?
I've also read that Rustoleum paints don't work well with primer...

Thanks, pal! Unfortunately, as this was built for a customer rather than myself, I won't get to see it's long-term durability but it seemed pretty tough. I was a little clumsy with the drill and where the chuck hit the finish, the mark left was barely visible (perhaps due to the multi-coloured textured finish's ability to mask marks better than others).

As it's a folded enclosure, there are sharper, exposed edges, unlike a cast enclosure, which might be vulnerable to chipping but, again, they seemed fine.

Although not using a primer, I've started a second enclosure which I've sprayed over a sub-standard wrinkle finish and it does feel somewhat less tough, like that grit that gives the finish its texture might come off with a good scratch or vigorous rub. Of course, the fairly glossy wrinkle coat isn't exactly an ideal primer for any finish.

Either way, give it a shot; it's fairly cheap and, as I mentioned before, quite idiotproof :)
-Fuzzmonger

midwayfair

Quote from: peterg on June 22, 2014, 03:19:14 PM
A simple fuzz box. The circuit is 3 cascading LPB circuits with a tone control at the front end and a blend contol.

This is seriously cool -- the layout, enclosure, and just the idea behind the circuit.
My band, Midway Fair: www.midwayfair.org. Myself's music and things I make: www.jonpattonmusic.com. DIY pedal demos: www.youtube.com/jonspatton. PCBs of my Bearhug Compressor and Cardinal Harmonic Tremolo are available from http://www.1776effects.com!

haveyouseenhim

WOW. I haven't been looking at the pictures thread lately. WOW. WOW. WOW.

@ Jim   That is awesome. So many possibilities with a CNC.

@ Peter  I'm digging the layout on the black PCB.

@ John D.  Amazing!  What a monster build.  DEMO!!!!
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I'm sorry sir, we only have the regular ohms.

Jdansti

  • SUPPORTER
R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

karbomusic

That stuff is amazing.

Germainium Fuzz with matched OC140s from Small Bear...



Si Fuzz with a 2369 and a 5088 + wooly cut switch...


Mustachio

AwwwwwwwYeah!@Karbo
"Hhhhhhhnnnnnnnnnnnnngggggggg"

Jdansti

  • SUPPORTER
R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

Guitarboy2828

Quote from: karbomusic on June 22, 2014, 11:57:22 PM
That stuff is amazing.

Germainium Fuzz with matched OC140s from Small Bear...



Si Fuzz with a 2369 and a 5088 + wooly cut switch...



Awesome finish. How did you get a finish like this?