Pictures!

[deadastronaut]

^ simply beautiful..

[Victor custom]

beautiful 

[darron]

Awwwwww yeah!

[peterg]

Stunning build Graham!

[Hexjibber]

^ Thanks guys

[smurfedelic smurfberry]

Amazing etching!!!

[noobamp]

God that is some Effing sexy etching.......

[vigilante397]

This is a simple 20 LED input level meter that I put together yesterday. It's a pair of LM3915 kits from China with an AMZ channel splitter in front with one output going straight to the jack so I'm not killing my tone in favor of sweet lighting. The parts were pretty cheap but it took me FOREVER to put it together, and the small box meant every time I crammed it in and threw on the bottom plate something shorted and I fried a few resistors. But it's done now and I am never opening the box ever again I have a video of it working, but my work internet doesn't want to upload it, so I will get it later.





I'm not usually very organized with my guts, but this one was worse than usual.

[glops]

Latest addition to the family....

The RING STINGER!! Fully functional and sounds AWESOME! One of the funkiest boxes I have ever used. The Octave Fuzz on this pedal is amazing! The use of the Drive, Timbre, and Blend knobs allow you to dial in anything from a mild OD-ish tone to full on Octave Fuzz MADNESS! But... that's not all.... switch over to the Ring mod mode and its chime heaven! Once you have gotten fully satisfied with your Ring mod... that's when you kick in the LFO to send it into new sonic territory! I played with this pedal for 2 1/2 hours and never lost the smile on my face 

Mad props to LaceSensor for his assistance with this!

On to the show:


I was going to settle for some Yellow mini chicken heads for the build but, after some arcane consultation from LaceSensor, he swayed me into using the full size PINK to keep with the original colors.


I decided to use some 1N781A diodes for the Transformer/Germ diode network. All of them matched to around 0.37 Fv and it sounds SUPER TIGHT when in the Octave mode....

YOWSA, looking great GL! Beautiful inside and out! I'm loving mine bigtime. The LFO madness is great but maybe too much sometimes for me. Lately, I turn the rate to really slow so it just kinda creeps in and out. It's a tough build but totally worth it if you like rind mods.

[bluebunny]

When this first scrolled into view, I thought you'd made yourself a humbucker for a ten-string guitar!   

[vigilante397]

When this first scrolled into view, I thought you'd made yourself a humbucker for a ten-string guitar!   

I'm afraid I'm not quite that cool

This thing is pretty cool though. For some reason it won't let me embed the link as a video, but this is it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7dBPxvLSKk

[davent]

When this first scrolled into view, I thought you'd made yourself a humbucker for a ten-string guitar!   

I'm afraid I'm not quite that cool

This thing is pretty cool though. For some reason it won't let me embed the link as a video, but this is it:

Simply have to remove the 's' in 'https' (and add the [youtube] brackets.)

[Govmnt_Lacky]

YOWSA, looking great GL! Beautiful inside and out! I'm loving mine bigtime. The LFO madness is great but maybe too much sometimes for me. Lately, I turn the rate to really slow so it just kinda creeps in and out. It's a tough build but totally worth it if you like rind mods.

Thanks glops. Very nice coming from you!

I do rather enjoy this pedal. I will say that it is THEE best Ring mod I have ever used. Very versitile. Kick in that LFO and WOW!!! Also, the Octave is amazing. Very smooth and the range is more than any other I have tried. 

[Freekmagnet]

I just finished assembling this nifty little effect pedal. What we have here is what started a rehouse job that kind of mutated into it's own thing. Years ago, I built a clone of an old MXR Envelope Filter from Tonepad. I'd modded it for bass by adding a "Deep" switch that added a couple of larger capacitors to lower the range of the sweep. Additionally, I'd added a couple of other mods recommended by Mark Hammer on DIYStompboxes.com.

Of course as with all bass effects, there was a loss of attack and low end which made using the filter onstage in a band situation a little uninspiring. I had decided to add a blend feature which would mix a little of my dry signal with the wet signal. Initially, I'd opted for a B.Blender circuit, but there wasn't a pre-made PCB available. Looking around at some other options out there, I discovered the Paramix on GuitarPCB.com. The Paramix is a really cool pedal that would allow me not only to blend my dry signal with any effect in the effect loop, but would allow me to blend two separate effects independently of one another. Realizing that the Paramix was indeed a very powerful tool by itself I decided it would be best for me to make a box that would serve both the Paramix and the EF together.

Realizing that this would be a fairly cumbersome set of circuits, I came to the conclusion that I would need a larger enclosure. I found a really nice sloped steel enclosure over at EffectsEnclosures.com. David make these custom enclosures himself and they come in standard sizes. However, he happened to have had this extra large one laying around and he sold it to me at a very reasonable price. I gave it a little design that was my attempt at paying homage to some of the really cool looking old effects pedals of yesteryear such as units produced by Maestro and Mutron.



The Paramix was a bear of build, mostly due to my ineptitude. Thanks to the guys over at GuitarPCB.com I was able to troubleshoot and get it working. They were a tremendous help. After a really specific round of troubleshooting instructions, I was able to find that one of the pins on the IC socket would not make contact with the circuit board. They advised me to stick a little jumper in there to make the pins make better contact.

In the end, the pedal works and sounds great. I put the two side by side as separate effects, mainly so I could place Envelope Filter anywhere in the effects loop chain. The Paramix does a brilliant job blending the wet and dry signals together and really brings out the low end in my filter. I can pretty much dial in the Isley's Fight the Power tone instantaneously. Even better, it also unlocks the awesomely funky potential of the otherwise useless reverse sweep mod. Yay!

[WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt]

You knocked that out of the park.  It looks great.  Love the color too.

[davent]

Really great looking build, auto looking colour and finish. Can you tell the us the secrets to your finishing techniques?
dave

[Freekmagnet]

Really great looking build, auto looking colour and finish. Can you tell the us the secrets to your finishing techniques?
dave

Not much of a secret - just patience, really, but I'll run you through the steps.

1 • Sand: the enclosure - 100 grit followed by 220. I use a random orbit sander. You want to make sure that there are no high or low spots. They'll bite you in the you know what later.

2 • Spray: a few coats of grey automotive primer. I usually use Rustoleum. Wet sand lightly (by hand) with 400 grit. Touch it up if there's any sand throughs. You want to completely coat the metal. Allow the primer to fully dry. I let it dry overnight.

3 • Finish: Colors are Testors One Coat Lacquer then clear coat is also Testors One Coat Lacquer. 1 can of each. Testors makes really cool automotive colors that come in small cans and are available at most hobby shops. With the metallic finishes, it's not a good idea to sand between coats. There's some kind of settling agent that makes the metal flakes float to the surface. I let this coat dry for a day or two. Another thing is the ambient temperature and humidity is crucial. Too cold or too wet, it doesn't dry properly. Too hot, it dries too fast. It's been hot here lately in Southern California, so I'd get up early and spray when it was still a cool 70º. The dryness, however, was great!

4 • Sand: very lightly with 600 grit. Wet.

5 • Apply: the decal. I use the inkjet waterslide kind. Be sure that when you use the same clear coat to finish the decal beforehand - lacquers tend to become unstable and crack when you mix brands, etc. I use MicroSol and MicroSet to apply the decal. I let it dry overnight.

6 • More Clear: I do at least 6 coats. Maybe even another whole can of Testors - like I said, they're small cans. I let this final coat dry for a few days.

7 •  Sand: 600, 800, 1200, 1400, 1600 grits. Again, lightly. Wet.

8 • Polish: I use that automotive polish to buff it out. There's a couple of abrasive grits that are somewhere in the neighborhood of 6000 grit. I use a rag.

...And Voila! Finished pedal.

[petey twofinger]

man oh man all you guys do such amazing work !

the funktronic is an absolute work of art , the led meter , i can sympathize and understand why you do not wish to ever open that thing again !

i would love me a ring stinger ... i have played around with rm a bit , i built a paiaa unit thats noisy and then the lm567 stuff but that thing looks just fantastic .

hats off you guys

[davent]

Thanks Jeremy! Your patience and and time put in is evident in the results, that's outstanding!
dave

[jimilee]

This is a simple 20 LED input level meter that I put together yesterday. It's a pair of LM3915 kits from China with an AMZ channel splitter in front with one output going straight to the jack so I'm not killing my tone in favor of sweet lighting. The parts were pretty cheap but it took me FOREVER to put it together, and the small box meant every time I crammed it in and threw on the bottom plate something shorted and I fried a few resistors. But it's done now and I am never opening the box ever again I have a video of it working, but my work internet doesn't want to upload it, so I will get it later.





I'm not usually very organized with my guts, but this one was worse than usual.

diuuddde, that is badass!!! Just saw the video, there needs to be more of this!