Pictures!

[midwayfair]

Holy moly ...

[chicago_mike]

It needs leds.  

[Fender3D]

It needs leds.  

and white washers... 

[pickdropper]

Holy moly ...

Very tasteful design.  A beauty.

[bluebunny]

It needs leds.  

It needs warp nacelles.   

[Perrow]

It needs leds.  

It needs warp nacelles.  

And leds.

[deadastronaut]

ha ha , cheers guys,

i was tempted to whack a 3916 in there...but thought better of it...kept it simple. (my semi diy tuner has lots of leds anyway ..)

i was also tempted to etch it....but also kept it simple....you never know...one day i might get bored and re-re vamp it though..

[digi2t]

I think it has a beautifully understated elegance about it. Kinda like leather elbow patches, and woody cologne. It should be surrounded by an ornate oak mantle. I say the only thing it's missing, is a coat of arms. 

[deadastronaut]

^

ha ha, yeah ive stood next to it wearing a smoking jacket a sucking on a pipe and drinking a 5 star brandy whilst trying to look as pompous as possible ..

amazingly it works better ..

[chicago_mike]

You should etch a face that looks traped in the pedal on the pcb. 

[Taylor]

Awesome volume pedal Rob!

I don't normally post stuff here but I thought you guys might be interested in this red-green color-shifting effect I made:

http://gfycat.com/DescriptiveSeriousHairstreak

No special paint is used; the enclosure is machine-engraved (deep) and different paint was applied to opposing angles of the engraved graphic.

[deadastronaut]

^ wow that is mega deep..

great idea on the angled paint..very cool.

have you lookedat it with 3d glasses on?...red/green...might be mad.

[G. Hoffman]

Far from the sexiest photos in this thread, but it's going to be REALLY useful when I get around to building my new rig.

Basically, it's just a MIDI in to 5 MIDI outs, but those outs are put through a Schmitt trigger buffer (a 74HC14) to make sure the slew rate doesn't get messed up in all the opto's in your typical large MIDI rig.  (Mine isn't going to be all that big, but it does have a couple units which only have ins, no thru.)  

Front side:


Back side:


Inside:


{Click on the pics for stupidly large versions}


Sorry they are just phone pics - I don't have a real camera right now.  

If you want to make one, the boards are up on OSH Park, HERE.  I don't get any money for them - you're just paying for the manufacturing.  My first pass had a full sized 7805, among other things, and would have cost $30 - with some effort, I got it down to $10.  Basically, though, it was a two night project (really, half nights) - one to design it (based on some schematics around the Internet), and one to build it.  I think, including the board and the box, I'm at about $25 bucks for it, which beats the $100 or so to buy something similar.  The box is a 1590B.  I didn't really feel the need for a MIDI Activity light, but if you did you could just replace one of the outputs with an LED - no additional resistors needed, as they are already there for the MIDI output.  Don't try to run an LED AND a MIDI output - it'll mess up the Data.  It's almost all surface mount, but the only difficult part is D1 - an SOD523 version of the 4148, which is about the girth, and half the length, of a grain of rice.  Frustrating little bugger, but you do need it for protection on the MIDI input.  If you want to skip the other diodes, you're probably alright (though they are a good idea).


Gabriel

[Taylor]

^ wow that is mega deep..

great idea on the angled paint..very cool.

have you lookedat it with 3d glasses on?...red/green...might be mad.

I did have those old 3d comic books in mind, but I chose red and green to make the color shift really clear - I was thinking blue to red would have less impact. But I do like the idea of 3d glasses to make a 3d object "even-more-3d". 

[pickdropper]

That's a cool idea, Taylor.  Nice execution.

[Mustachio]

That is Awesome Taylor ! Really cool technique!

[vigilante397]

Gabriel, that may be one of the sexier gutshots on this thread. I don't have the patience, steady hands, or eyesight for surface mount, but I have a lot of respect for those that do. You took a complicated idea (especially compared to the general fuzz/drive stuff neanderthals like myself mess with) and put it together in an organized and elegant way.

[electrosonic]

Fuzz Face and a Tonebender MKII in one enclosure. Uses a LM3046 transistor array (gains = 118)  and on board relays and LEDs to simplify the wiring.

The Fuzz Face has a high pitched squeal when the fuzz control is turned past 3 o' clock. Otherwise all is good.

Any ideas on how to tame the oscillation?

The LM3046 data sheet states "Operation from DC to 120MHz" - a 100pF cap across Q1 solves the oscillation.

Andrew.

[Taylor]

Taylor, that may be one of the sexier gutshots on this thread. I don't have the patience, steady hands, or eyesight for surface mount, but I have a lot of respect for those that do. You took a complicated idea (especially compared to the general fuzz/drive stuff neanderthals like myself mess with) and put it together in an organized and elegant way.

I think you meant that for Gabriel, not me since I haven't posted gut shots here in a few years. I don't want to steal his thunder!



On a side note, though, you may be surprised that surface mount is less tricky than you think. All the stuff I build, I've been converting to surface mount because it's easier, faster, cleaner, easier to debug, cheaper... I usually only use 1206 and SOIC sized parts, not the really tiny parts that a lot of people are using so the size isn't so scary. I don't use an oven or stencil, just a modified technique similar to what I would use for through hole parts.

[Mac Walker]

deadastronaut's X-ROCK, nice little circuit...