Pictures!

[Crowella]

Every single time I see one of your builds. I have to just be so blown away by the inside, the outside and the circuits themselves. Amazing all around! 

[Mac Walker]

Bypass looper



Logo

[Pettol]

Love it! Rough but yet clean.

[Hatredman]

Laser P0rn!

[micromegas]

made these three of an old-ish design. partly to test out a new epoxy resin. it's quite a bit more viscous than the last epoxy I had been using all these years, which isn't great for the sides. instead of applying multiple coats, I let it sit (after mixed) for 30-40 minutes, where it got goopy and thick enough for application.

Awesome looking. I always loved how organized your layouts are, with those 1/8w resistors all packed

What's the new resin you're trying, if I may ask?

[davent]

Hello,
Finished this up last night, as per usual something uncomplicated, JMK's 'Standard Fuzz PCB', used 2sc829's and an 2sk30A, the 829's at ~125hfe. Don't have pcb pots so rigged my own with regular lugged pots and 20awg solid core sleads, that way i could place the pots where i needed and very solidly hold the pcb in place... very solidly!

Added a small vero daughter board for the  two LED's clr's and PS filtering, 91r/150uf. Took the feed for the clr's from before the PS filtering. Shielded cable between the jacks and the bypass switch.

1590BB enclosure with top mount jacks, etching primer-> BIN Primer Sealer-> acrylic paints. The lettering and arrows are acrylic fiber medium, spread the medium on parchment paper let it dry, slopped some paint on it drew some letters, cut out and liberated them from the sheet, cut out a couple small triangles and stuck them all on with GAC200. Target 7000 waterborne spray lacquer for the clearcoat.


Very nice pcb, very easy to work with! http://jmkpcbs.com/product/standard-fuzz/

Haven't had much time to play but very very fuzzy in a good way, going to be fun! Have lots of higher gain Japanese transistors to try and a mod from Glops to explore sometime after i see what all is there with the stock build.

dave

[Filip]

This forum is such an inspiration so I really can't wait to show off my first build! It's a LPB-1 in a 1590A.
I did struggle a bit with both the circuit and the reversed etch but I did learn a lot and I'm already planning my next build.

[glops]

Hello,
Finished this up last night, as per usual something uncomplicated, JMK's 'Standard Fuzz PCB', used 2sc829's and an 2sk30A, the 829's at ~125hfe. Don't have pcb pots so rigged my own with regular lugged pots and 20awg solid core sleads, that way i could place the pots where i needed and very solidly hold the pcb in place... very solidly!

Added a small vero daughter board for the  two LED's clr's and PS filtering, 91r/150uf. Took the feed for the clr's from before the PS filtering. Shielded cable between the jacks and the bypass switch.

1590BB enclosure with top mount jacks, etching primer-> BIN Primer Sealer-> acrylic paints. The lettering and arrows are acrylic fiber medium, spread the medium on parchment paper let it dry, slopped some paint on it drew some letters, cut out and liberated them from the sheet, cut out a couple small triangles and stuck them all on with GAC200. Target 7000 waterborne spray lacquer for the clearcoat.


Very nice pcb, very easy to work with! http://jmkpcbs.com/product/standard-fuzz/

Haven't had much time to play but very very fuzzy in a good way, going to be fun! Have lots of higher gain Japanese transistors to try and a mod from Glops to explore sometime after i see what all is there with the stock build.

What are you doing to distress the stomp switches/washers/knobs?

Looks aweeeeessssoooommmeeeee, the whole shebang, I mean....

[davent]

Thanks Glops!

Bunch of different things depending on the materials.

For stainless steel hardware like nuts and washers i use a propane torch, heat them to the point they almost turn blue then quench in water. If they reach blue, quench and sand back will tone it down, just more grunge. I recently bought a solder stand from a jewelry supply house that makes it easy to torch them from top and bottom. While poking around there found a chemical for blackening SS but didn't spring for that... another time.

Which distressed nut's from a Tayda switch?


For the threaded bushings of switches and jacks and the switch cap (sanded first) i've been using Gun Metal Bluing, effect depends on the steel and it's somewhat controlable as to the degree of darkening.
This stuff,  http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=71689&cat=1,250,43298

The knob, cheap plastic and aluminum junk with a good set screw and insert. Sanded the skirt to take off whatever may have been coating it, painted on India Ink, let dry, rub off some of the ink with a dry paper towel, spray with a clearcoat to protect (GAC200) then painted on some very very diluted (Golden brand) 'Interference Orange (Fine)' transparent paint which gives a real nice copper effect. The cap covers were cut with a circle cutter from rice-paper paint experiments/messing, epoxied to the knob tops then sealed with the clearcoat as were the skirts.

ed.  Forgot to mention a couple small random pieces of the painted fiber medium (lettering) were glued to the skirts as indicators.

So heat, sandpaper and better living through chemistry.
dave

[John Lyons]

Nice work Dave!

[midwayfair]

Amazing, amazing work as always, Dave. the raised lettering is just perfect.

[glops]

yes, love it!

[davent]

Thanks so much guys, always appreciated!
dave

[snarblinge]

Beautiful work Dave, really fires up my airbrush envy

[cloudscapes]

Awesome looking. I always loved how organized your layouts are, with those 1/8w resistors all packed

What's the new resin you're trying, if I may ask?

Thanks yeah I love the 1/8w ones best

this resin
http://entropyresins.com/product/super-sap-ccr-clear-casting-epoxy-resin/
I got the 47oz kit to try out. it doesn't smell, and it's not super chemical (as far as resins go anyway). but it's pretty runny, which is why I let it thicken for 30 odd minutes after mixing. so it won't run off the sides of the pedal as much. I'll probably need to build a couple more before I get the resin timings right.

previously had been using this for years
http://www.deserres.ca/en-ca/creative-hobbies/tips-and-techniques/vitra-laque/12/73/
but they're phasing it out (if it's not already done).

[davent]

Beautiful work Dave, really fires up my airbrush envy

Thank you!  For this one only pressed the airbrush into service for the clearcoats, mostly spatulas, splatter  and a small wood block wrapped with monofilament fishing line and used as a stamp, ink it up (well acrylic paint) stamp all over, load a different colour repeat... random interesting pattern i think...
dave

[micromegas]

Awesome looking. I always loved how organized your layouts are, with those 1/8w resistors all packed

What's the new resin you're trying, if I may ask?

Thanks yeah I love the 1/8w ones best

this resin
http://entropyresins.com/product/super-sap-ccr-clear-casting-epoxy-resin/
I got the 47oz kit to try out. it doesn't smell, and it's not super chemical (as far as resins go anyway). but it's pretty runny, which is why I let it thicken for 30 odd minutes after mixing. so it won't run off the sides of the pedal as much. I'll probably need to build a couple more before I get the resin timings right.

previously had been using this for years
http://www.deserres.ca/en-ca/creative-hobbies/tips-and-techniques/vitra-laque/12/73/
but they're phasing it out (if it's not already done).

Thanks!

I'll give that one a try once my Envirotex stock comes to end.

[vigilante397]

Thank you Dave for once again making me rethink my life choices. Right on par with the amazingness we've come to expect.

[garcho]

Nice work Filip! Stylish

[gtudoran]

Today's paint job