Pictures!

[Frances Rhodes]

here is one i made for a friend.
it's a very organized OCD, obviously!
enclosure was water-sanded and engraved, like always, and i added a clipping switch: 1st position is symetrical clipping with 2n7000s, 2nd position is asymetrical, with a 1n34 in series with one of the 2n7000s.
both sound exactly the same... haha next time i'll put several diodes in series with the transistor, so that it actually sounds different!

EDIT: forgot to mention this was not my own layout!
thanks to David and his fantastic site effectslayout.blogspot.com
here's the link to the project https://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2016/06/fulltone-ocd.html









cheers!

[bluebunny]

Cein bdilu.

[Frances Rhodes]

maestro fuzz tone 1B version 2 (with 4 silicon transistors)

[Marcos - Munky]

it's a very organized OCD, obviously!

2nd position is asymetrical

Dude, you can't be asymetrical when dealing with OCD! 

Nice boxes!

[Frances Rhodes]

2nd position is asymetrical

Dude, you can't be asymetrical when dealing with OCD! 

[garyg]

I really like your engraving style, particularly this one and the super fuzz on the previous page. Is it just a regular dremel engraving bit you use?

[Frances Rhodes]

I really like your engraving style, particularly this one and the super fuzz on the previous page. Is it just a regular dremel engraving bit you use?

thanks!! yes, the smallest bit, which is the one (3 of them actually) that comes with the bundle! and the flex-o-thingy also, which i didn't use at first cause i didn't have anything high enough to hang the dremel (i use a mic stand now) and it's much much heavier, bigger and it shakes like crazy!! can't believe the first results i had with this, now!!

[rankot]

Work in progress, Alembic F2b based preamp. My first tube preamp that works really nice, no noise, no hum, no buzz, just clean and HUGE tone! I used DC for heaters. I also plan to add one 5670 based preamp into the same box, but I am not sure if I will leave them in parallel only, or I will add a switch to choose between serial/parallel connection of preamps.



Sponge Bob at the right side is actually the hum breaker circuit

[duck_arse]

I was walking along the street and found this chocolate tin on the footpath, so I spirited it away home, thort 'wot can I bild in?' and decided uglyface. only, cause it's so crappy, and junk came to hand, it is not intended as a stompbox, just an effect.

so, here's the facia baga. and bob - I win.

and ^ here's the problem - it bleeds osc into the bypass when freerunning. if I'da known, I might have taken steps early, but it's much too late now.



has added slower osc switch, and a filter knob.


the "grommets" cover some nasty holes in thin thin metal. Simpkins, eh?

[bluebunny]

Sweet.

[EBK]

Needs a bunch of chocolate brown knobs, I think.

[Marcos - Munky]

and ^ here's the problem - it bleeds osc into the bypass when freerunning. if I'da known, I might have taken steps early, but it's much too late now.

What about using one of the bypass switch poles to turn off the whole power to the circuit?

[duck_arse]

and ^ here's the problem - it bleeds osc into the bypass when freerunning. if I'da known, I might have taken steps early, but it's much too late now.

What about using one of the bypass switch poles to turn off the whole power to the circuit?

I was going to pass rude comment on this suggestion, as there are no spare poles on the bypass switch; I'd even used the one spare pin to ground the input to the 386 when b/p, thinking it'd prevent bad things. but then I was thinking, if I'd have fitted the mill indicator that I usually do, I could have lashed that into the 7555 to kill the osc when bypassed.

but too late now - someone else will have to be the first to try it.

[Marcos - Munky]

Yeah, I know those switches have 2 poles. But what kind of indicator did you used? Maybe we can work on something?

Btw, what's the purpose of the 2nd switch?

[duck_arse]

no indicator at all, cept the switch is up or down. also, the build has left the building. the second switch is an "octave down" for the oscillator, adds a second 100nF timing cap. and for anyone interested, I HIGHLY recommend a superbright red or orange led and a GL5516 ldr: the slow release makes for a wonderful sweep. [I even added a 100R CLR for my led.]

[rankot]

100n or 100u cap?

[Joncaster]

Finally done with my Neovibe.

Left out the vibrato, just depth and speed.
Got a board made locally (have a second board as well) 
Power supply is 24VDC
20V regulator, 1.2M input, 250k output
It has a small bit of volume boost.

One of the most rewarding things I've spent my time on. Thank you RG for your Neovibe work.

[duck_arse]

100n or 100u cap?

100nF, as in nanoFarads, 100 x 10^-9. I'd still be waiting if'n I'd gone micro. if you had a centre-off SPDT switch, you could have the standard 100nF on board with one side adding 100nF, and the other adding 220nF - or your choice. the freq shift means the ldr swings against a different resistance [for the same oscillator frequency], and changes the sweep some.

[rankot]

Now I am definitely not sure which cap do you have in mind

[duck_arse]

Now I am definitely not sure which cap do you have in mind

on this dia, C4 & C5:
https://i.imgur.com/Ji0sdkD.png