Pictures!

[garcho]

Almost.  He's got a battery snap and two mono jacks.

aww snap!

[stallik]

Switch off the internet.  Kevin has won.   

Almost.  He's got a battery snap and two mono jacks.

Well spotted. No stereo jacks to hand, still connected the battery for testing. And yes, I did forget to remove it

[willienillie]

Yeah I figured you didn't intend to actually use a battery.  Cool build for sure.

How did you do the finish?  Some sort of covering?

[stallik]

Yeah, just carbon finish self adhesive vinyl. Takes 2-3 mins to cover the box and hides any previous holes very well

[bluebunny]

Here's Andy's "Gorn" overdrive.  Like the Vulcan before it, the graphic was mandatory.

[electrosonic]

Dual Band Overdrive - the guitar signal is buffered then split into high and low frequencies, independently overdriven (JRC4558) and mixed back together.
The faceplate is a piece of veneer,  lasercut / marked  and then sealed and glued to a repurposed Hammond 1590BB

The top board holds a relay bypass and an Attiny13A for the switching logic. On power up, the led flashes a few times to show the pedal has power and then switches to bypass. The ADC of the uC monitors the input voltage at the DC jack, if the voltage drops below about 7 volts for 15mS, the pedal switches to bypass. There is enough capacitance in the power supply for the pedal to switch to bypass when the pedal loses power - since it is true bypass the guitar signal is still passed after power loss.

The 3.5mm jack on the bottom allows remote switching via a momentary SPST switch and can also power a led, so the remote switching box can have an led status indicator which will mirror the pedals led.

I am hoping to build this switching capability into all my pedals, so I could use a uC (probably an Arduino Nano) as a master controller, to create presets.

Andrew.

[vigilante397]

On power up, the led flashes a few times to show the pedal has power and then switches to bypass. The ADC of the uC monitors the input voltage at the DC jack, if the voltage drops below about 7 volts for 15mS, the pedal switches to bypass. There is enough capacitance in the power supply for the pedal to switch to bypass when the pedal loses power - since it is true bypass the guitar signal is still passed after power loss.

Great looking build for sure, and I really like how much thought you put into the switching logic. Great idea, and very nicely done.

[temol]

I finished this one two weeks ago but then went on vacation. Now I can post the pics. Almost twin brother to the previous Fuzz Face.





ps. Marcos - Munky - I've changed colour of the battery holder and cap

T.

[Marcos - Munky]

Another amazing build, temol! And nice choice of colors for the battery holder and caps . Btw, how is the output volume on your Fuzz Faces? I don't have too much experience with FFs, just played a Dunlop one and made 2 that didn't ended up boxed because all 3 had the same issue: the output volume was a bit lower than unity.

[diydave]

lpb-1.
Nice and simple.

[Marcos - Munky]

Beautiful!

[ThatPedalGuy]

New to the forum hope to give back what iv got from it over the years! Anyway This is my take on a fender princeton 5f2-A

[analogMensch]

The 3.5mm jack on the bottom allows remote switching via a momentary SPST switch and can also power a led, so the remote switching box can have an led status indicator which will mirror the pedals led.

I am hoping to build this switching capability into all my pedals, so I could use a uC (probably an Arduino Nano) as a master controller, to create presets.

How did you power the LED on the 1/8" jack? Is the resistor on your effect circuit board or the full 9V on the 1/8" jack?
I prefer to put the resistor on the board to avoid short circuits if someone use a mono jack on the 1/8".

How do you want to make these presets? Do you want a digital network on the SPI lines of the Attiny? Or just a simple on/off command?
For a on/off thing you could use the LED signal as a feedback from your pedal to write the state into your logic. So you can have the same jack for a simple footswitch or a logic controller.

[electrosonic]

The 3.5mm jack is stereo (tip, ring, sleeve) - I think of it is Tx(tip), Rx (ring) and sleeve (ground)

The tip is connected to a uC output pin with a current limiting 1k resistor.  A LED connected between the tip and sleeve will mirror the LED on the enclosure.

To switch the pedal remotely momentarily connect the ring to the sleeve.

The idea is that a master controller could read the on/off status of all the pedals and switch them on and off as needed.

Maybe I'll post the schematic in its own thread so I don't pollute the pictures thread...

Andrew.

[analogMensch]

Yeah, a special thread for this will be a good idea

[ElectricDruid]

Ohhhh, it's so BROWN!!

Nice work, like it.

[analogMensch]

Just think about...what LED color are you use?

[ThatPedalGuy]

The led is a clear blue, was going to use red choices choices.
I'll try and a sound clip and schematic if you guys are interested.

[kaycee]

As I've put a question up in the forum, thought I'd post a couple of builds too. I have settled on the alcohol inks and letter stamping for the majority of my finishes now, I find it the easiest and most reliable method - I'd love to do more  interesting graphic images but I'm not good with drawing programs and hate the hassle of transfers, or etching.

[ElectricDruid]

As I've put a question up in the forum, thought I'd post a couple of builds too. I have settled on the alcohol inks and letter stamping for the majority of my finishes now, I find it the easiest and most reliable method - I'd love to do more  interesting graphic images but I'm not good with drawing programs and hate the hassle of transfers, or etching.

Those are fabulous, and the alcohol inks give the pedals a real style of their own, almost like hammered metal or corrosion. Really nice, lots of depth.

But then there's that last Alphonse Mucha one! That's not the same method, is it? How did you do that one? Is that one an inkjet transfer on bare aluminium?