Pictures!

[duck_arse]

Still a work in progress:

Although the guts are not yet finished, I have done enough drilling, sawing, filing, and fitting to be 90% confident in my ability to actually build this pedal.

I've always found that last 10% is the real killer. I think it's good that you've deflected all questions to some third party. and restricted to office hours, at that.

[davent]

Lower half just needs a paint job, they take paint pretty well.
dave

[Marcos - Munky]

Some of those boxes does markings/labellings usinng inks that can be removed using acetone or kerosene. Give it a try.

[EBK]

Some of those boxes does markings/labellings usinng inks that can be removed using acetone or kerosene. Give it a try.

From discrete testing, the white paint is vulnerable to acetone as well.  On a somewhat similar tin (an Altoids tin), I have been able to remove black letters and leave the white underneath, but it makes a noticeably dull spot on the white.  So, acetone is out.  But, careful camera angles will work for my future pics.   

Edit:  I'm going to sneak a couple more pics in this post.  A new knob and a preview of the inside.



Edit: Swapped out the previous version of the above image for one that has the boards fully populated.  Just needs wires (and the LED to be lined up). 

[rockola]

Here's a repurposed tin that maybe should have housed an Orange Squeezer. Instead, it's a Superheated Super Hard On, because nothing says "tastefully intense" like a SHO with Superheat engaged.



KiCAD files, Gerbers etc. at https://github.com/rockola/superduro

[kaycee]

This one does not need introduction




T.

Looks great, where did you find the enclosure?

[holm]

That light shield is awesome!

Funny you should say that, since it has now been replaced.



See, there is an error in the Forum-Vibe build documents, two resistors swapped (R48 and R49) on the populated board diagram.  In my case at least, it limited the available depth of the effect, and had me pulling the guts out twice to make various improvements, including the light shield.  Now that I have those resistors corrected it works much better, but I'm leaving the second light shield in place.  It's much lighter and more like the originals.

Just Stumbled upon this thread in my search for increasing the depth of my Forum-vibe build. May I ask what populated board diagram are you referring to? And what should the values of R48 and R48 be?
Iat Erik

[willienillie]

Ref:

https://www.classicamplification.net/fv/FV5_BuildLayout.pdf

What they should be depends on if you're adding the trimmer, and whether you use the 100K trimmer or the 250K trimmer.

In the original, no-trimmer setup (first page of the pdf), the 100K and 47K resistors in the R48 and R49 spots should be swapped.

In the 100K trimmer setup (second page of pdf), the 4K7 and 47K in those spots should be swapped.  That puts the "original" setting near the midpoint of the trimmer's adjustment.

If you use the original JC Maillet mod of a 250K trimmer (not in the pdf), those two resistors aren't used, nothing to swap.

To add to the confusion, if you scroll to the bottom of the pdf, there's a schematic that shows those two resistors as R47 and R48.  But on the V5 PCB they are R48 and R49.

Good luck!  I was playing mine today, it's a nice box to have once you get it dialed in.

[temol]

kaycee - thank you

It's a DIY enclosure.

[bluebunny]

Rob's AstroSim:

[EBK]

I love it!  But, I kind of wish that the toggle switch was more centered on his helmet visor.   

What font is that?

[bluebunny]

Wow, all the tough questions Eric!      The A is Magneto and the rest is Velocity (the A and S are bigger, too).  As for the switch, I'm afraid there's rarely that degree of joined-up planning going on between my ears.   

[EBK]

As promised, a gut shot of my lozenge tin pedal.  (Yay!  I completed it!)

[ElectricDruid]

Very tidy, like it.

How's the soft-touch relay switching working out for you?

T.

[EBK]

Very tidy, like it.

How's the soft-touch relay switching working out for you?

T.

Thanks!
I haven't really played around with relay-switched pedals very much, even though this is my third such build and my very next build is also one.  It does seem a bit more refined and elegant than a traditional stomp switch though, but I don't think I will be abandoning the old ways anytime soon.  In this pedal, the soft touch switch was necessary to clear the tin height constraint.  The internal height of the tin is almost exactly the same as the switch height.

[holm]

Ref:

https://www.classicamplification.net/fv/FV5_BuildLayout.pdf

What they should be depends on if you're adding the trimmer, and whether you use the 100K trimmer or the 250K trimmer.

In the original, no-trimmer setup (first page of the pdf), the 100K and 47K resistors in the R48 and R49 spots should be swapped.

In the 100K trimmer setup (second page of pdf), the 4K7 and 47K in those spots should be swapped.  That puts the "original" setting near the midpoint of the trimmer's adjustment.

If you use the original JC Maillet mod of a 250K trimmer (not in the pdf), those two resistors aren't used, nothing to swap.

To add to the confusion, if you scroll to the bottom of the pdf, there's a schematic that shows those two resistors as R47 and R48.  But on the V5 PCB they are R48 and R49.

Good luck!  I was playing mine today, it's a nice box to have once you get it dialed in.

Thank you, much appreciated

[LightSoundGeometry]

bizzy fuzzy big and buzzy

[EBK]

I am experiencing a higher than usual build rate this year, probably because I find building pedals therapeutic and this year is so hard.

This is a MBP Slow Loris (Rat with mods) build.  The graphic is my attempt at commemorating this entire year with non-political humor. 





The glyphs below the toggle can best be explained, perhaps, by breaking them into their components:
SS = pair of Si diodes
LL = pair of LEDs
SSS = asymmetrical Si diodes

[bluebunny]

Very neat, Eric.  Like it a lot. 

[11-90-an]

I could only dream of getting an enclosure to look that neat... Nice one, Eric!