Pictures!

[Phend]

^ Very clean looking. Hows it sound ?

[alixxx]

There are some sound examples here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k6IYjNI_uhs9-9YLuV4z5rGmce4XEQME/view?usp=sharing

[vigilante397]

Another one from me, my take on the Kingsley Harlot V2 (V3 hadn't been released when I traced this one). I used a MMBFJ201 instead of 2N5458 for the FET stage, but otherwise followed the original. Finish is (as always) UV print with powder clearcoat.





Smudged and flux-covered guts:

[davent]

Super!

How annoying is it to have to hand solder the wires to the jacks?
dave

[vigilante397]

Super!

How annoying is it to have to hand solder the wires to the jacks?
dave

Thanks It's a little frustrating, feels like it takes forever I've managed to speed it up a little though, I know exactly the length of wire I need for each stretch and I pay my niece to cut wires to length for me.

[Marcos - Munky]

Awesome build, Nathan! Well, all of yours are

Is the schematic for this one available? I got my eyes on this one for a while, and indeed found a schematic, but I'm not sure if it's correct.

[vigilante397]

Awesome build, Nathan! Well, all of yours are

Is the schematic for this one available? I got my eyes on this one for a while, and indeed found a schematic, but I'm not sure if it's correct.

Thanks You may have found a copy of my schematic, I'm not sure there are others out there. A friend of mine wanted a smaller one so he sent me his unit to trace. I think the first copy had a couple component values wrong as I used the default value from my library and forgot to change it, but this is the final one I used for the layout. Make sure you use an On-On-On DPDT for the mode switch, not On-Off-On. Oh and ignore the pin numbers on the tube, I have my "daughter board" as a component in my software and the pin numbers correspond to that. Also the original uses an LDO to get 6.3V for the heater in parallel, I just run heaters in series and use 9V or 12V straight in.

[Marcos - Munky]

Thanks for the schematic. It was indeed a copy of your schematic, but probably with the wrong values. On-on-on switches simply doesn't exist at local stores, but I think I can work with something. I mean, there are one unused lug on each switch so basically there is or there isn't a connecting to ground and, in case I can't get a on-on-on, I can just use two separated SPSTs

Just two more questions. How did you got the 27.4V? And I don't think I got the low switch correctly, is it a on-off-on SPST switch with C1 on one pole, C4 on the other pole and nothing on the center?

Btw, aren't you using subminis anymore? Iirc the last pics you posted use full size tubes.

[vigilante397]

The 27.4V was what I measured from the original, I copied his voltage divider (R1/R2) off the HV rail to get the JFET supply.

The lows is On-Off-On with C4 in the center, C1 on one lug, then a jumper on the other lug.

It's true, I've stopped designing with subminis and starting in May I won't even build old designs with them for customers. Power consumption, microphonics, and user serviceability are the main reasons for the switch.

[Elijah-Baley]

Another one from me, my take on the Kingsley Harlot V2 (V3 hadn't been released when I traced this one). I used a MMBFJ201 instead of 2N5458 for the FET stage, but otherwise followed the original. Finish is (as always) UV print with powder clearcoat.





Smudged and flux-covered guts:

Very professional!

I would like to build for the first time some tube preamp pedal or sort of like Kingsley pedal, for example, or something more like a classic british or american style preamp.
But I think it's not so good power up it just at 9v or 18v, and in the European shop where I used to buy I can't find any small transformer that can power at high voltage, but just big transformers big at max 12v, maybe 18.
Any advice about it?

I used to build on stripboard, so something with the right pin spacing will be nice, else I'll see alternative.

Thanks!

[vigilante397]

Transformers are the traditional way to do high voltage, but I prefer SMPS as I can get it much smaller and it's generally a quieter way to do it. I use the typical "nixie" high voltage supply, it needs a big MOSFET (I use IRF740) and an inductor (I use 100uH) but aside from those it's all common components with a NE555 for the oscillator.

[temol]

Yellow Hybrid Tone Bender in a diy box. Yellow powdercoat base, waterslide artwork and then clear poweder coat. I liked yellow only coat (lightly matte) better. This is my first time with clear powdercoat.

[Elijah-Baley]

Transformers are the traditional way to do high voltage, but I prefer SMPS as I can get it much smaller and it's generally a quieter way to do it. I use the typical "nixie" high voltage supply, it needs a big MOSFET (I use IRF740) and an inductor (I use 100uH) but aside from those it's all common components with a NE555 for the oscillator.

Thanks! SMPS seems perfect.

[rankot]

Yellow Hybrid Tone Bender in a diy box. Yellow powdercoat base, waterslide artwork and then clear poweder coat. I liked yellow only coat (lightly matte) better. This is my first time with clear powdercoat.

This looks soooo cooool!

NPN or PNP transistors?

[temol]

NPN or PNP transistors?

NPN. BC547B, BC109C, MP38A

[rankot]

NPN or PNP transistors?

NPN. BC547B, BC109C, MP38A

Interesting choice! I've build my first Tone Bender few weeks ago, using MP20 as Q1/2 and 1T308V as Q3. Sounds really nice.

[Marcos - Munky]

The 27.4V was what I measured from the original, I copied his voltage divider (R1/R2) off the HV rail to get the JFET supply.

The lows is On-Off-On with C4 in the center, C1 on one lug, then a jumper on the other lug.

It's true, I've stopped designing with subminis and starting in May I won't even build old designs with them for customers. Power consumption, microphonics, and user serviceability are the main reasons for the switch.

Got it. Thanks again for the answers. I'll try to make a layout for this one after I finish two builds that are on my workbench (aka pc desk).

I only used subminis a few times. I heard they have a short lifespam, not sure on that. But they're harder to replace than a regular tube, and way harder to find at least down here. So I just use a regular tube when I build a tube circuit.

Any advice about it?

I used to build on stripboard, so something with the right pin spacing will be nice, else I'll see alternative.

I also advice you to use a smps. I powered a Fender, a JCM800 and a Dual Rect preamp with the 555 smps and it worked great. I know there was a layout around but I'm not sure if it was for perfboard or stripboard and I can't find it rn. But if you can do stripboard I can share my layout, it's for pcb but can be easily converted to stripboard.

Yellow Hybrid Tone Bender in a diy box. Yellow powdercoat base, waterslide artwork and then clear poweder coat. I liked yellow only coat (lightly matte) better. This is my first time with clear powdercoat.

That's so beautiful!

[davent]

Yellow Hybrid Tone Bender in a diy box. Yellow powdercoat base, waterslide artwork and then clear poweder coat. I liked yellow only coat (lightly matte) better. This is my first time with clear powdercoat.

Looks great!

I'm not a fan of glossy either much prefer a matte finish, are various degrees of luster available in powder coat.

Might try a very fine wet sandpaper to dull the sheen in an inconspicuous spot or on another experimental/sacrificial piece? That' a big might!
dave
dave

[eh la bas ma]

We all do food comparaisons to describe a sound. My take on a Tubescreamer :




These green peas were tasteless (transparent ?), even though advertising reads : "soft, melt-in-the-mouth texture".

Now the tagline tells the truth ! It is "enchanting my everyday life". With the gain set on 3 o'clock, I can almost hear that little piece of butter on top...

I am keeping most of my garbage with me, since I started building stompboxes, almost clean and ready to use . For my next project (redshift phaser), I have a beautiful empty pack of cheap rice with a dragon on it. I am so excited !

[temol]

Might try a very fine wet sandpaper to dull the sheen in an inconspicuous spot or on another experimental/sacrificial piece? That' a big might!

Worth trying but I'm afraid that it would be easy to damage the finish/artwork. Edges, high spots, low spots, lots of potential problematic areas. Do you have any experience with matte clear coat?