Pictures!

[Phoenix]

That's excellent. Show the insides. What is that box with the hex screws or nuts?

Whoops, missed your reply until now, guess something with the forum alerts has changed since I was here more regularly.

Anyway, thanks! It's just a regular 125B enclosure, and yes Tom has it right:

I'm guessing it's a PCB panel screwed to the top of the box for the graphics. PCB-as-front-panel has become quite popular as the range of colours and finishes (and the reliability!) has improved, both for pedals and for Eurorack synth modules in particular. Much cheaper than CNC'd aluminium and screen-printing, at least for small quantities (like "1"!!).

The buttonhead Allen screws in the corner keep the panel in place. I drill and tap blind holes in the aluminium. I've seen others use just pot/switch bushings to hold such panels in place, only for the FR4 to warp and "peel up" at the corners or get caught by shoes and snap. Anyway, the bushings on the 9mm pots I use aren't long enough for the thickness of enclosure + panel.

I don't currently have any pics of inside to share, not that there's anything interesting to see IMO. I do have some other projects to share coming up, I'll try and snap some interior photos for those.

[Focalized]

Shocktave sub octave fuzz.


Acapulco Gold / X-Fuzz

[drdn0]

Glow in the dark FA1-esque preamp

[lars-musik]

The 2nd iteration of my 4-in-1 project - a custom build for my guitar teacher - is ready and he even made a video for it. His idea was to have a pedal that works with most amps he'd find in the backline of future gigs. Usually, he uses a Fender Princeton Reverb, so Tremolo, Reverb, Overdrive (and Delay) was on his wishlist for a grab-and-go pedal. The first one I stitched together with PCB I created over the years, 3Verb, Vico Vibe, Jan Ray and Deep Blue (here is the link to the last post). Now I packed it all on one large PCB including relay switches, so the parts can also be remotely switched (Delay and Reverb are in one switching circuit. Turned out great. Now it even sports a battery (it draws a measured 100mA).

[bluelagoon]

Nice job Lars, I'm sure your guitar teacher was wrapped.
Wondering what type footswitches you used on it, they look momentary, of some kind, how durable are they ?

[lars-musik]

Nice job Lars, I'm sure your guitar teacher was wrapped.
Wondering what type footswitches you used on it, they look momentary, of some kind, how durable are they ?

Thanks! They are called "Vandal Protected Switches" (not, that I think Tim is somet kind of a vandal). I found them on ebay as a replacement for those super-expensive Lehle BTN switches. They take up less space than the regular momentary ones. I hope, they will endure what they promised. 

[Matthew Sanford]

And video!

Not sure why C & Em, got stuck on listening











And ok nasty insides...got pcbs coming to make it easier...

[zbt]

How doe the top hold up to stomping?

This one might work, I might add rubber to hold the pressure.

May be Tuesday, cause is tuna time, meow

[amz-fx]

Full front panel sticker printed on an old Epson inkset printer.

The holes are already drilled and just covered by the sticker at this point. I will cut them out with an exacto knife when I am ready to install the pcb.



Other pix of my recent builds are in my instagram.

Best regards, Jack

[duck_arse]

is that real people generated, Jack, or the dread IA?

[btondin]

Simple ISP decimator clone:

[Transistor-Transistor]

This is my new unpainted prototype of my overdrive/distortion I've been designing for the past 4 months. I made a slight error when soldering it up(testing shows that a tranny is bad) but even slightly broken it sounds awesome.
I think I'm gonna use color coded knobs on all my designs now.

[Transistor-Transistor]

And now the painted, working production model of my overdrive/distortion circuit

[Matthew Sanford]

I think I'm gonna use color coded knobs on all my designs now.

Awesome. Code them (I.e., red for gain, yellow for tone, etc) and then you'll know what is where at a glance!

[Transistor-Transistor]

I think I'm gonna use color coded knobs on all my designs now.

Awesome. Code them (I.e., red for gain, yellow for tone, etc) and then you'll know what is where at a glance!

Yeah! Yellow controls an input boost, red is gain, green is tone, and blue is volume!

But now I have to think of what the colors will represent in a modulation circuit...

[Matthew Sanford]

Right? I've done similar but has been Druid StompLFO in a couple so matching purpose was easy.

[duck_arse]

But now I have to think of what the colors will represent in a modulation circuit...

purple = throb

[garcho]

But now I have to think of what the colors will represent in a modulation circuit...

Nice work, I love the SSL look! I've always been a fan of graphic design that uses a neutral canvass and space to let bright colors pop.

Do like the alphabet-creating Semitic speakers did with their overbearing neighbor's heiroglyphs thousands of years ago and think first letters (or phonemes) should match. For instance, the picture of an apple is 'a', the drawing of a house represents the hard h sound, a cow is 'k', etc. Do that for colors: white for waveform, orange for offset, shit-brown for shape, framboise for frequency, etc.

I think the general idea is red = poison and blood, green = food that's safe to eat, so they lend themselves to stop/go, record ("destructive") and play ("non-destructive", unless you're listening back on tinfoil platters). From heating metal we get the yellow is warm, red is hot spectrum, which leant itself to voltage levels and audio. Stop buttons are rarely colored or backlit which represents "off" vis-a-vis the other buttons. I guess purple, orange, and blue never ended up associated with something in a more universal way that leant itself to audio gear. Blue seems like an obvious association with 'cool', but it doesn't get used for that purpose in audio gear UI design, despite being used in electrical wiring (for structures, anyway).

I hate working on consoles when functions don't have different-colored knobs. I spend way more time scanning the board, and reading labels, and it can start to pull you out of listening mode if it takes too long to find what you're looking for. That's important on stage, too. A lot of gear in the 80s had colored-cap knobs, but in my experience, don't expect to be able to use color codes on stage. The lighting, especially now with what I jokingly call "opaque" LED lighting, will scramble your colors.
I have a triple-instrument set up with a DIY switcher. Each instrument is plugged in with a different colored cable, that corresponds to an LED and knob. There's one output, so I can use my pedal board and amp with all three instruments and don't need a mixer taking up space or adding noise. I know the red LED lights up when the instrument with the red cable is un-muted and the red knob adjusts the input level. It can work well. The only problem is stage lighting often makes it all look red-grey, or even swaps the colors around, depending on shadows. So, masking tape and sharpie it is. Sometimes, rough and ready is the way to go!

[stallik]

Today's build is a simple diode switch. DPDT on/off/on. Diodes on one pole, resistor on the other. Resistor is in series with the signal when the diodes are not active to get round the inevitable volume change. Normally wire the components directly onto the switch but as my eyes get older, I make such a mess of it that I thought I'd fare better with a pcb. Certainly looks neater. 1N4148's + 560k is spot on for a Valvecaster, (pic show a test board with D9E's)

Will put one together with sockets for future tests