Pictures!

[lars-musik]

Phew! Another crammy one. A Zorg Glorious Basstar. After working with 1590A for some time now I was really astonished, how tight a 125B build can turn out (I had to let go of the board mounted pots, so I had to pre-tin 24 wires for the pots plus 15 for the switches plus the usual outboard-madness).

The only really annoying thing was that I layed out the whole thing with a SMD TL074 (150 mil) I thought it was (as the DIP version) of the same dimensions as the supposed TLE2074. The TLE2074 took weeks to ship and when it finally arrived it was in a 300 mil package. Rats! So I build this one with a TL074 for the tone/clipping section.

It is going to be the birthday present for the bass player of our band (who usually doesn't use pedals). I hope it is as versatile in his rig as I hope.   

[duck_arse]

One knob(blue),Fuzz face(orange),Hyperion(green).

unfortunately for those of us that don't have a googoo account, we can't see these pedals.

[antonis]

It is going to be the birthday present for the bass player of our band

If I learn to play bass, would you get me in your band..?? 

BTW, excellent work Lars..!!!
(try to make larger the holes for sunk head screws on switches cases by hand with a small drill bit..)

[bluebunny]

unfortunately for those of us that don't have a googoo account, we can't see these pedals.

I have a googoo account and I still can't see owt...      (The URLs don't appear to be pictures, either.)

[davent]

They were working for me but aren't any longer. A group of cool looking originals, i'm guessing repurposed steel mugs.

dave

[playsforfun]

I don't always build combos. But when I do...well, yes, yes I do. I do always build combos. I may have gone overboard with this one but it was my entry into the GuitarPCB.com 2016 combo contest. I think I may take a prize since it actually works. A single 9v source powers all. PUTB (Tonebender) with optional Emerald Ring (Octave Up) > switchable WAH loop using a Buff N Blend with optional Stage 3 adder for phase inversion > Silent Tuner > Julius (Compressor) with sustain mod> Overdrive circuit (explained below) > Order Switcher for Dr. Phybes (Phaser) and Distortion Circuit (explained below) > Tone TwEQ > Paramix > Mini Me chorus > EA Tremolo without kill> D'Lay with Tap Tempo > adjustable Emexar boost > out to amp. Everything is bypassable except the Tone TwEQ and the Paramix. A total of 31 boards used.
The overdrive circuit is a combo itself which is comprised of a selection of either the Blues Buster or the Zenith. An After Blaster on a toggle and level wired to the exterior is used as the bypass. A 2 Knob job is used as the selector to select which OD will be used. Together this is basically an either or or none with a boost. When bypassed the bypass switch is lit, when a circuit is active the bypass LED goes out and a colored LED lights to show which OD is active and the After Blast level knob glows. I forgot to provide a way to select clipping options for the BB but it can be selected on the board with pin headers and jumper.
The distortion circuit is a combo also which is comprised of a selection of either the Red Special or the Plexi Plus. An After Blaster on a toggle and level wired to the exterior is used as the bypass. A 2 Knob job is used as the selector to select which dist will be used. When bypassed the bypass switch is lit, when a circuit is active the bypass LED goes out and a colored LED lights to show which one is active and the After Blast level knob glows.
The Dr. Phybes is on a Buff N Blend with a Stage 3. This allows how much wet phaser will blend into the mix. The order switch, mounted on the base of a LB with a light plate attached, allows for placing the phaser before or after the distortion. An LED lights to let you know which sequence is selected. The phaser rate pulses from a glow plate below the order switch.
The Tap Tempo utilizes the tempo scale switch. The set tempo and scaled tempo each flash separately using the lightable pots and clear knobs. A few of the TT options were not used.
The loop circuits are over the top. There is an opportunity for a loop or insertion point at the beginning with the bypassable WAH loop built into a LB enclosure. The Paramix has the send and return and insert out and insert in options. Its controls and phase switch are built into a LB enclosure and top mounted with the tremolo 3D style. This is set after the dirt and before the modulation. The chorus also has a switchable loop for some crazy options and the D'lay has a switchable loop as well. So there are many opportunities to go nuts with loops and insertions and blends of anything, just about anywhere.

[darron]

I don't always build combos. But when I do...well, yes, yes I do. I do always build combos. I may have gone overboard with this one but it was my entry into the GuitarPCB.com 2016 combo contest. I think I may take a prize since it actually works. A single 9v source powers all. PUTB (Tonebender) with optional Emerald Ring (Octave Up) > switchable WAH loop using a Buff N Blend with optional Stage 3 adder for phase inversion > Silent Tuner > Julius (Compressor) with sustain mod> Overdrive circuit (explained below) > Order Switcher for Dr. Phybes (Phaser) and Distortion Circuit (explained below) > Tone TwEQ > Paramix > Mini Me chorus > EA Tremolo without kill> D'Lay with Tap Tempo > adjustable Emexar boost > out to amp. Everything is bypassable except the Tone TwEQ and the Paramix. A total of 31 boards used.
The overdrive circuit is a combo itself which is comprised of a selection of either the Blues Buster or the Zenith. An After Blaster on a toggle and level wired to the exterior is used as the bypass. A 2 Knob job is used as the selector to select which OD will be used. Together this is basically an either or or none with a boost. When bypassed the bypass switch is lit, when a circuit is active the bypass LED goes out and a colored LED lights to show which OD is active and the After Blast level knob glows. I forgot to provide a way to select clipping options for the BB but it can be selected on the board with pin headers and jumper.
The distortion circuit is a combo also which is comprised of a selection of either the Red Special or the Plexi Plus. An After Blaster on a toggle and level wired to the exterior is used as the bypass. A 2 Knob job is used as the selector to select which dist will be used. When bypassed the bypass switch is lit, when a circuit is active the bypass LED goes out and a colored LED lights to show which one is active and the After Blast level knob glows.
The Dr. Phybes is on a Buff N Blend with a Stage 3. This allows how much wet phaser will blend into the mix. The order switch, mounted on the base of a LB with a light plate attached, allows for placing the phaser before or after the distortion. An LED lights to let you know which sequence is selected. The phaser rate pulses from a glow plate below the order switch.
The Tap Tempo utilizes the tempo scale switch. The set tempo and scaled tempo each flash separately using the lightable pots and clear knobs. A few of the TT options were not used.
The loop circuits are over the top. There is an opportunity for a loop or insertion point at the beginning with the bypassable WAH loop built into a LB enclosure. The Paramix has the send and return and insert out and insert in options. Its controls and phase switch are built into a LB enclosure and top mounted with the tremolo 3D style. This is set after the dirt and before the modulation. The chorus also has a switchable loop for some crazy options and the D'lay has a switchable loop as well. So there are many opportunities to go nuts with loops and insertions and blends of anything, just about anywhere.

i bet you work for hammond.... i can imagine the conversation now that you had with your boss-
"we need to make trapezoid shape boxes. because... err....  there's a huge industrial market... also i have this guitar thing idea"

[contra]

Hello everyone, I'm a long-time lurker, first-time poster. I've wanted to try pedal building for a long time and finally bit the bullet recently and completed my first stompbox, although not before doing several "practice" circuits and butchering a couple of enclosures. So here is my first completed build, a Super Hard On, sans crackle, in a 1590A. The original circuit diagram I used called for 1N5242 and 1N5819 diodes but for one reason or another I couldn't get hold of them, so I used a couple of 1N4148s that I had seen in another SHO circuit and that happened to be lying around. Unfortunately it's just bare aluminium at the moment, but at some point in the near future when I think of some design ideas, I want to hand-paint its enclosure.

So here's the outside:



And the inside:



I'm greatly looking forward to sharing some (hopefully far more interesting) future builds with everyone.

[Cozybuilder]

Hi Contra- welcome aboard!

That is a tidy looking 1590A build- not the easiest box to use for a first-time project. Very few first time posters show their completed, working project for the first post (usually its a request for assistance). Respect.

[davent]

Did this enclosure last spring, chopped according to Cozybuilder's tutorial... then painted  & legended for a circuit i lost interest in, got sidetracked. This spring looking for something to put in an already painted two knob enclosure Stomptown offered me one of his Harmonic Percolator pcb's and the important bits which was an offer i couldn't turn down.

First pedal in over a year... the Albini version of the Perc.

Etching primer, BIN primer/Sealer (white) to level any scratches.

Red paint around the top, tape off the stripe then red paint over the stripe to seal the tape edges and prevent the other colours bleeding under.

Paint white, mask bottom half paint the top Cody green.

Mask the top, paint the purple. Then slapped on a coat of Micaceous Iron Oxide (mica flakes in black paint), wrapped with crinkled up Saran Wrap then let dry. Peeled off and did a second application in a few weak areas.

Lettering was done with a piece of frisket film and very narrow tape i used as pcb etch resist back in the tape and dry transfer pad pcb days.

First attempt was with thick acrylic gel medium, total failure so sanded it off and taped it up for a second shot with the airbrush and tooth brush.

Didn't have the odd ball resister values for the Albini version but did have 1/8w, 1/4w parallel pairs to stack for those values. Also the only 2.2uF electros i have are axial so paralleled two 1uF radial electros. I haven't tried either set of bounding diodes (will be set and forget) but i'm fully impressed with running bare.

First time use of one of Rej's (Grind Customs FX) Lumen boards.

Kudos to Cozybuilder for the enclosure hack and big thanks to Stomptown for giving me the kick in the butt to finally get around to finishing a pedal. Sounds super, great board!

dave

[3102xxx]

unfortunately for those of us that don't have a googoo account, we can't see these pedals.

I have a googoo account and I still can't see owt...      (The URLs don't appear to be pictures, either.)

Sorry guys, put it in another place.
Reply #26577

[balkanizeyou]

hello everyone!
I've just recently started etching my enclosures so the results aren't very good yet, but I'm slowly improving! I just wish there was a laminator for hammond enclosures just like there are laminators for PCBs, as the ironing is driving me crazy - doing one thing the same way five times yields five different results  Also, as you can see, I'm a horrible photographer as well:


that's a BSIAB II I finished just recently.


Insanity Box - that thing has some gain!


that's a Mid-Fi Clari Not (I run out of knobs while before I took that photo)


That's the Abductor Delay I, a really great pt2399 project. Photo was taken before I cut the shaft on one pot.


A really sad Proco Rat clone 


That's a Deep Blue Delay clone with an etched picture drawn by my girlfriend. (one of my first etches)


That's also a DBD, but one made for a friend.


Not an etch, but that's a tremolo I made for my girlfriend so it must have had some flowers in it!

and finally, my first etch ever:


When I etch my pedals I prefer not to paint them, as I really like looks of raw, etched aluminum

[duck_arse]

post of the week, for my money. it has .....

hello everyone!


Insanity Box - that thing has some gain!

... a platypus! ....

That's the Abductor Delay I, a really great pt2399 project. Photo was taken before I cut the shaft on one pot.

.... the current elephant in the room (an uncut shaft) ....

A really sad Proco Rat clone 

... sad? a boy and his duck!
and tremolo/s with flowers. excellent.

Not an etch, but that's a tremolo I made for my girlfriend so it must have had some flowers in it!

and finally, my first etch ever:

[Jamdog]

Not exactly a stomper,  but used to power them.







38.7Ah of rechargeable power. 

[hylandren]

hello everyone!
I've just recently started etching my enclosures so the results aren't very good yet,


that's a BSIAB II I finished just recently.

I think those etches look GREAT!
But if you really aren't happy with your etches, I recommend this tutorial, along with a liberal amount of nail varnish wherever you don't want any etching to occur:
http://music.codydeschenes.com/?page_id=2035

[balkanizeyou]

thank you duck_arse and hylandren!
The final effect may not be that bad, but it comes after using tons of nail varnish to mask the deficiencies of my toner transferring. That's the part that annoys me the most - after spending hours on polishing the box, cleaning it with bottles of acetone, experimenting with different times and temperatures of ironing I still cannot get consistent results - once I think I've nailed the exact heat setting of the iron and ironing time and I try to repeat, it always turns out like crap.

Also thank you for the link, I've already seen that tutorial (and a lot of others), I do everything as they say and still cannot get the freaking toner to stick properly! Maybe it has something to do with the paper I'm using (it's from some color magazines) so I'll try something else like photo paper, but I don't think it's the paper's fault - I'm using the same paper for making PCBs and it works great, I can easily make boards with some small SMD packages like TQFP chips.

[MadJr]

Hello guys!
Its my first builds:

ProCo RAT


Woolly Mammoth Bass Fuzz clone (veroboard)

LovePedal Purple Plexi 800 clone (veroboard)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

How i can reduce the image for the best vizualiation?
Sorry my english, i dont speak english. 

[Jdansti]

Welcome, MadJr!  Congratulations on your first builds!  Your English is better than some of the native speakers!

You can reduce the size of how your photos are displayed by typing "height=xxx" in the first img brackets like this:

Code Select Expand

[img height=500]http://i.imgur.com/cIjmUFH.jpg[/img]

Click on quote when you read this to see how I changed the displayed sized of your photos:

Hello guys!
Its my first builds:

ProCo RAT


Woolly Mammoth Bass Fuzz clone (veroboard)

LovePedal Purple Plexi 800 clone (veroboard)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

How i can reduce the image for the best vizualiation?
Sorry my english, i dont speak english. 

[MadJr]

Thanks Jdansti  . Modified!

And one more pedal:

Its a Fuzz Face with BMP tone control and Sillicon transistors (2n2222).

[Buildtestrepeat]

I like the gold one.  I made this DS1 clone with Keeley mods for my brother and used the cheapest gold rattle can paint I could find.  He loves it.