Pictures!

[duck_arse]

I wasn't sure about those ^ brown knobs - until I saw the mullet. now I think it's just right.


except for the mullet, of course.

[bamslam69]

A couple of Madbean Cave Dwellers for myself and a mate.
Artwork on the right one was done by my 10yo daughter. I might be using her talent in future.

Too embarrased to take a photo of the guts.

[vigilante397]

Too embarrased to take a photo of the guts.

Story of my life there Great looking builds though

[bloxstompboxes]

Well, she's done. Finished her up yesterday. Not sure what I think yet. I like it but I am gonna have to play with it more. Has a nasty pop when going from HP to BP. Tried white 5mm leds first and it was horrible. Switched to green and it is so much better. Wiring was kept somewhat clean thanks to davent's suggestion I think it was. Screwed up the labeling of the switches. Forgot to take into account the washers. Oh well. She is for me anyway.

[Benoi31]

OK, so this is a commercial project, but I thought that you might like it. I hope it is not a problem to post it here.
Circuit is available online on my blog: http://www.coda-effects.com/2016/05/tap-tempo-tremolo-diy-complex-project.html


It is an optical tremolo with tap tempo, using the TAPLFO2D chip and my own relay bypass system
The central switch allows to use the pedal as a "hold" effect.
6 waveforms and 6 tap tempo ratios, with switches
(I do not like using potentiometers there because you never know what setting you are using)

In order to do that, I used "adaptory" PCBs that I used with small 1P6T alpha switches:



The final PCB is a bit different because I included the jack and relay bypass system directly on it.

[Magnus]

Hello @ all,
great builds as always 

@karbomusic: Thats an awesome thing with the clear epoxy 

@bloxstompboxes:Wow, this is steampunk at its best 
...those red electrolytics from this page are sexy too 

Leston Brown:Nice ptp-build 


Greetings
Magnus

[bloxstompboxes]

Hello @ all,
great builds as always 

@karbomusic: Thats an awesome thing with the clear epoxy 

@bloxstompboxes:Wow, this is steampunk at its best 
...those red electrolytics from this page are sexy too 

Leston Brown:Nice ptp-build 


Greetings
Magnus

Thanks, I usually cheap out for the tayda ones but I thought I might switch to a more reliable brand of electrolytics for my larger/more complicated or expensive builds. They are a German brand called Wurth. I thought why not since I have German heritage. They are a good quality electrolytic without the priceyness and look sweet too.

[khm9]

Well, she's done. Finished her up yesterday. Not sure what I think yet. I like it but I am gonna have to play with it more. Has a nasty pop when going from HP to BP. Tried white 5mm leds first and it was horrible. Switched to green and it is so much better. Wiring was kept somewhat clean thanks to davent's suggestion I think it was. Screwed up the labeling of the switches. Forgot to take into account the washers. Oh well. She is for me anyway.

This is so clean, well done!
I have few questions if you don't mind answering

-box caps, IC's, switches, pots, where did you get them? Tayda?
-standoffs for PCB? How did you make that work?
-and do you prefer solid or stranded wire?
-Artwork, water decal?

Once again, very very good job, so clean

[bloxstompboxes]

This is so clean, well done!
I have few questions if you don't mind answering

-box caps, IC's, switches, pots, where did you get them? Tayda?
-standoffs for PCB? How did you make that work?
-and do you prefer solid or stranded wire?
-Artwork, water decal?

Once again, very very good job, so clean

Wow, I don't think anyone has ever said that many nice things about one of my builds. Clean? Well, with all the wires it could have been a lot worse I suppose. I primarily use smallbear's stranded bonded wire 24awg. I have run out of it in the white and black so I have been using another brand called Consolidated, I think. It's not bonded so it doesn't hold it's position well, nor is it pre-tinned. I think it was davent, who suggested in another thread I made, to mount all the controls inside-out on the enclosure. This was because I had predrilled it before wiring and the holes were all symmetrical. This allowed me to better judge wire lengths and do everything but the power and in/out jacks before I even painted the box. I even tested it that way. I still don't know how to position the wires so there all pretty.

The box caps, switches, and pots all came from tayda. The stompswitch may have come from bitcheslovemyswitches.com, but I can't remember for sure.

The electros I ordered from digikey.

Standoffs came from tayda. They have a couple different ones. These were taller and narrower than I think most people use but either are fine. I bought them a long time ago. I always try to make room for mounting holes and actually drill them, but this was the first time I ever actually used the standoffs. I mostly mount my boards with velcro or 3m double sided foam tape to the back of the pots, or use board mounted pots. This build wouldn't work that way. The rotary switch is taller than the pots and has no flat surface to stick to. It is also a 3p4t so one position does nothing. Actually, it mutes the signal entirely when not bypassed. Anyway, the enclosure was big enough to mount the pcb with the standoffs to the enclosure itself.

The artwork is just a decal and is an atomic particle, I believe, that I snagged by googling "neutron." It was then cleared over with rustoleum clear coat.I don't think it is visible in the pics but the edges of the decal are noticeable. I cut it a little narrow. I find making them fit the top of the enclosure almost to the edge allows them to blend better.

You didn't ask this but the vactrols are just LDRs and 5mm green LEDs from tayda with red heatshrink. Believe it or not, I first tried white LEDs with the LDRs in a piece of a plastic straw, with hotmelt, and then heatshrink. It was an ugly mess and sounded terrible. It was fully on or off and not smooth at all. Can't find the words to really describe it. I was trying to be creative. Just using the heatshrink is fine. Don't know if it will crack and dry rot some day though. I have heard that yellow LEDs can work well. The wavelength of the color and the light intensity is very important. You also don't want an LED that lights up too easy. Needs to be able to be dim and bright based on picking strength. Main reason I think the white failed so misrerably.

Thanks again for the kind words!

[bean]

Finally boxed up the old Tremshifter. Only took me two years!

[Magnus]

Hello,
@bloxstompboxes: Thank you, that's nice to know 


Greetings
Magnus

[ElectricDruid]

Here's my latest. It's a 4 second digital delay, based on a dsPIC and a couple of serial RAM chips. Full details are over on my website, but here's a quick summary of the features:

• 0 → 4 Seconds of digital delay
• 12 bit/32KHz input, 16 bit/32KHz output
• Delay trails (tails) on/off
• Noiseless effect in/out bypass switching
• Momentary/latching feature on bypass switch for "echo splashes"
• Tap tempo
• Tempo LED to indicate echo rate
• Dry audio path is entirely analog
• Delay Time, Repeats, and Delay Level controls
• High and Low tone filter controls

The pots and LEDs are PCB-mounted, which makes for a nice tidy build. I was careful about where the connections for the jacks and switches were too, so that I didn't need long wires for those. From the left, you've got three dual op-amps (input buffer/output mixer, and then two four-pole filters for pre/post delay, then the 28-pin DIP is the dsPIC, and the two SRAMs on the far right. I tried to keep the digital side and the analog side as separate as possible.


I'll have chips and PCBs for this available in due course if you want to build one, or you can grab the schematics and code from my site and roll your own. I'm still tweaking the code currently, but I promise to have it online before christmas

Tom

[Benoi31]

Wow ! Impressive !
4 seconds delay must be quite fun to use haha !

[bluebunny]

Nice build, Tom (and interesting circuit too). I think I recognise the colour too. Vert de Halfords, peut-etre?

[ElectricDruid]

Nice build, Tom (and interesting circuit too). I think I recognise the colour too. Vert de Halfords, peut-etre?

Thanks. It's a Rust-Oleum metallic green. Surprisingly few green sprays you can get, I found. You can have any green you like, as long as it's dark green or light green. I went for light, since I figured the graphics wouldn't show so well on the dark one. My flangelicious is blue, and I did a nice red BMP clone (the "Red Muff", with a Russian flavour) recently too, so I wanted a green pedal. Next one has to be pink or purple or something outlandish...

[bean]

I'll have chips and PCBs for this available in due course if you want to build one, or you can grab the schematics and code from my site and roll your own. I'm still tweaking the code currently, but I promise to have it online before christmas

Tom

Well I'm in for that!

[thermionix]

-----

[lars-musik]

OH! YEAH! A tap-delay to replace the circuit in my nicely etched enclosure made for the +@ *!%§$%"$%-pt2399-taptation failure. Thanks!

[dbp512]

Oh man tom, that looks phenomenal. I'm glad I didn't order the flanger yet, I'll wait until this is ready to ship as well.

Unfortunately, it looks like I just won't be able to fit these in vertical enclosures with top mounted jacks. With the flanger it looked like it could possibly work, but certainly not this. Oh well, for these beauties, its worth the extra board space, and even the *shudder* side mounted jacks.

[stallik]

Think again. If the board was mounted 180 degrees, there looks like there would be room for the footswitches and space for top mounted jacks. You'd have to run the pots on flying leads as well as the led's and footswitches then find a good way of securing the board but it's not impossible