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Started by Hal, August 23, 2005, 01:58:47 PM

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alixxx

Yes, the MOSFET heats up. So I decided to install it on a radiator. But the inductor heats up more than the IRF.

slowpogo

Man O' War analog delay using madbean's pcb. I used Tayda's new enclosure services for printing and drilling, and considering this enclosure cost under $20 I'm amazed at the results. The drilling is great, everything fit perfectly. I got the "embossed" printing option which is really nice, the graphics are raised and tactile and glossy. If you look really closely there is some light printing slop around the corners of some letters, but from any distance it disappears. I'm thinking of putting some yellow knobs on there, but otherwise I'm really happy with it.



garcho

^ looks great, bravo. I'm happy to hear their services are working out for people, I'll have to try it one of these days.
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"...and weird on top!"

sgtbaker

This is my build of Jed's Peds Roanoke.  Apparently it's an MI Audio Crunch Box / JHS Angry Charlie.  Basically a JCM 800 in a box.  It's fantastic.


kaycee

Cool boxing there Sgt.

Radical CJ

Quote from: slowpogo on March 10, 2021, 10:48:17 AM
... this enclosure cost under $20 I'm amazed at the results. The drilling is great, everything fit perfectly. I got the "embossed" printing option which is really nice, the graphics are raised and tactile and glossy...



Under $20! I don't think we have any comparable service where I'm from. Well worth it.

I use stencils and spray paint on some of mine, but it can't get that level of detail. I've also started useing a lable printer for some, but it doesnt look that good.

Stencil examples:


duck_arse

Quote from: sgtbaker on March 11, 2021, 11:55:01 PM
This is my build of Jed's Peds Roanoke.  Apparently it's an MI Audio Crunch Box / JHS Angry Charlie.  Basically a JCM 800 in a box.  It's fantastic.


I'd give it 11 out of 10 for the build. and welcome.
" I will say no more "

davent

Quote from: Radical CJ on March 12, 2021, 06:46:03 AM
Quote from: slowpogo on March 10, 2021, 10:48:17 AM
... this enclosure cost under $20 I'm amazed at the results. The drilling is great, everything fit perfectly. I got the "embossed" printing option which is really nice, the graphics are raised and tactile and glossy...



Under $20! I don't think we have any comparable service where I'm from. Well worth it.

I use stencils and spray paint on some of mine, but it can't get that level of detail. I've also started useing a lable printer for some, but it doesnt look that good.

Stencil examples:


If you're making your own stencils visit an art supply store and get something called frisket film, (there's also liquid frisket). It's a thin almost transparent film backed with a light adhesive so edges of your stencil are sealed and you don't get under spray, assuming you want to stop that.

To take things further, another trick when stencilling or masking for a straight line is to, after applying your mask/stencil, either spray the work with a clearcoat or if painting over a single colour spray with the same paint first to seal the edges of the stencil. Stops any of the new paint colour from bleeding under into any small gaps and you get a super sharp edge where you've masked/stencilled.
dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

Radical CJ

Quote from: davent on March 12, 2021, 01:57:47 PM

If you're making your own stencils visit an art supply store and get something called frisket film, (there's also liquid frisket). It's a thin almost transparent film backed with a light adhesive so edges of your stencil are sealed and you don't get under spray, assuming you want to stop that.

To take things further, another trick when stencilling or masking for a straight line is to, after applying your mask/stencil, either spray the work with a clearcoat or if painting over a single colour spray with the same paint first to seal the edges of the stencil. Stops any of the new paint colour from bleeding under into any small gaps and you get a super sharp edge where you've masked/stencilled.
dave

That's two bits of excellent advice, thanks! I've just been using cardboard. I've never heard of frisket film before, and was thinking that to get better results I might need to start making prints out of lino. Sealing the edges with the background colour makes a lot of sense too, but it probably would have taken me a long time before I worked it out for myself!

davent

Quote from: Radical CJ on March 12, 2021, 05:50:17 PM
Quote from: davent on March 12, 2021, 01:57:47 PM

If you're making your own stencils visit an art supply store and get something called frisket film, (there's also liquid frisket). It's a thin almost transparent film backed with a light adhesive so edges of your stencil are sealed and you don't get under spray, assuming you want to stop that.

To take things further, another trick when stencilling or masking for a straight line is to, after applying your mask/stencil, either spray the work with a clearcoat or if painting over a single colour spray with the same paint first to seal the edges of the stencil. Stops any of the new paint colour from bleeding under into any small gaps and you get a super sharp edge where you've masked/stencilled.
dave

That's two bits of excellent advice, thanks! I've just been using cardboard. I've never heard of frisket film before, and was thinking that to get better results I might need to start making prints out of lino. Sealing the edges with the background colour makes a lot of sense too, but it probably would have taken me a long time before I worked it out for myself!

You can be sure i learned from someone else...

Frisket film is great, cuts easily with an xacto knife, even with the backing paper on you can see through it to the image/lettering you're cutting out or you could tape the image over top, and releases from whatever you stick it to very easily leaves no residue. You don't need to spray a lot to seal edges, you can even brush the edges with the sealant.
dave
dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

davent

A couple more stencillisms came to mind while shaving this morning, save the cutouts, you can use them later to mask your stencilled letters allowing you to easily work the letter outlines or continue painting the enclosure.

Letters or other stuff can be too close together to cut out properly or you may want to do overlapping letters, cut out two or more stencils with alternating letters, with the film being clear no problem to orient the subsequent stencils to the earlier work.
dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

vigilante397

I know I said I wouldn't spam this thread as much, but I'm super excited about this build :P Soldano Supercharger GTO has always been my absolute favorite dirt and I've had a 6N21B version on my board for years now. I finally decided to move up to a 12AX7 version, but I didn't want to waste space on my board with a 1590BB, so I squeezed it into a 125B. Finish is UV printed and clear powdercoat over raw enclosure.





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"Some people love music the way other people love chocolate. Some of us love music the way other people love oxygen."

www.sushiboxfx.com

Phend

Here it is, the Orange Sunshine Booster.
A Si Rangemaster using 2n3904 and a 150K R2.
Turned a little Orange Treble-Bass Booster by using its 500K tone pot.
Plus tossed in some Muff Fuzz volume, 10K pot and two clipping diodes.
Also put in a switch to choose between two different C1.
Generates a Little Sweet Distortion boost.
Plays well, Displays well.
And can be used as a man cave light.
Some old components some new.
Certainly does not follow the rules, oh well.
(Pictures really don't do it justice)













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Do you know what you're doing?

garcho

^ way cool, bravo
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"...and weird on top!"

rankot

Maestro MP-1 phaser. No trouble at all! I was very suspicious it will work, but it did. So happy!


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60 pedals and counting!

D_Ex_Patria

Russian Big Muff with active mid control and selectable clipping capacitors. The clipping selection lets me switch between Russian, Ram, and Supa Tonebender style clipping. Tons of bass if on tap.

The control layout is definitely Swamp Lord inspired.

If anyone is interested, the panels are actually selectively oxidized brass. If you're already etching your own PCBs or enclosures with toner transfer, this method will be pretty straightforward.

Really pleased with how this came out.







garcho

^ looks great, bravo!
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"...and weird on top!"

daverdave

Been working on a few pedls recently, here's a couple. The Sludge Feast is a '78 deluxe big muff clone with a mids control and switches for both parallel and series, and bypass. The other is another IVP based pedal with a switchable parametric EQ, the enclosures were done by Tayda and look mega! My photography doesn't do them justice.







mozz

Power supply built under a pedaltrain classic in a aluminum chassis. Weber transformer. You will never see the tiny led's once the cover is on. I forgot they were on the boards.



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alixxx

Tube distortion pedal. Based on Groove Tubes Trio Preamp (Scream Channel).