Pictures!

[davent]

Might try a very fine wet sandpaper to dull the sheen in an inconspicuous spot or on another experimental/sacrificial piece? That' a big might!

Worth trying but I'm afraid that it would be easy to damage the finish/artwork. Edges, high spots, low spots, lots of potential problematic areas. Do you have any experience with matte clear coat?

I thought perhaps the powder coat clear would be quite thick but if not, not a worth risking damage to the art.

No experience with apply powder coats, I use acrylic paints for my enclosure and art. The clearcoat i use is a waterborne lacquer sold as an instrument finish, i use the gloss and apply with an airbrush and you can spray in such a way that you get a really nice matt finish  if left as sprayed. Could still buff/polish it into a high gloss if wanted but that's not for me anymore. Matte finish is available too but i haven't bought any to try.

Again great looking pedal from fabrication of the enclosure to the art to the finish, the colour choices the work inside, the pcb, you nailed it all.
dave

[kaycee]

I don't generally like the 'amp in a box' distortions, but I built one of these for a customer, and was taken enough with it to make one for myself. I made a gaff with the footswitch mounting PCB and turned it through 90 degrees, so it no worky! I had to de-solder and cut off the wires which ruined it, and a potential tidy wiring job for once...

[vigilante397]

Looks great inside and out. I've always loved the looks people get with alcohol inks, but never been brave enough to try it myself

[kaycee]

[/quote]
Looks great inside and out. I've always loved the looks people get with alcohol inks, but never been brave enough to try it myself
[/quote]

The inks are the easiest, most reliable finish for me. Getting a good effect is very easy with a little practice, erasing a bad one as easy as a rub with wet and dry paper. Most all colours seem to combine in a pleasing way, and using complementary colours or even one of the 3 colour coordinated sets you can get are even better.

The stamping is somewhat more tricky, lining up words and letters, it always ends up a bit 'blackmail' style. I'm sure that a decal over the top would look really good, or a laser etch through the surface would be really nice, but I'm done printing decals, and not about to buy an engraving machine.

[davent]

Looks great inside and out. I've always loved the looks people get with alcohol inks, but never been brave enough to try it myself

The inks are the easiest, most reliable finish for me. Getting a good effect is very easy with a little practice, erasing a bad one as easy as a rub with wet and dry paper. Most all colours seem to combine in a pleasing way, and using complementary colours or even one of the 3 colour coordinated sets you can get are even better.

The stamping is somewhat more tricky, lining up words and letters, it always ends up a bit 'blackmail' style. I'm sure that a decal over the top would look really good, or a laser etch through the surface would be really nice, but I'm done printing decals, and not about to buy an engraving machine.

You might get away with using a wet toner transfer instead of decals. Involves water based transparent acrylic mediums from the art supply store and regular printer paper.
dave

[kaycee]

My main problem is producing the graphic in a program, I'm rubbish with that kind of thing(using programs, not drawing and designing) and don't have the patience or time to learn. I also loathe the printer with a vengeance

Like many on here, I have found my own style through trial and error - which has greatly increased my respect and appreciation of what others do on here with different methods and mediums 

[garcho]

The stamping is somewhat more tricky, lining up words and letters, it always ends up a bit 'blackmail' style.

Blackmail style, haha, I love that! It looks good.

I'm done printing decals

I completely understand

and not about to buy an engraving machine.

I've been meaning to get one over the years but keep putting it off because of how much time I know I'll waste reading reviews, specs, forums, etc. All it has to do is cut through powder coat and be able to swing reasonably small lettering. Oh well, some day!

[vigilante397]

The inks are the easiest, most reliable finish for me. Getting a good effect is very easy with a little practice, erasing a bad one as easy as a rub with wet and dry paper. Most all colours seem to combine in a pleasing way, and using complementary colours or even one of the 3 colour coordinated sets you can get are even better.

The stamping is somewhat more tricky, lining up words and letters, it always ends up a bit 'blackmail' style. I'm sure that a decal over the top would look really good, or a laser etch through the surface would be really nice, but I'm done printing decals, and not about to buy an engraving machine.

Good to know, I may have to give it a try one of these days. I've graduated from the laser (though it still gets occasional use) and bought myself a UV printer, which I think would do excellent over a finish like that, then I would throw a clear powdercoat over it all for protection and obnoxiously glossy shine Again, one of these days

[Phend]

Here is my latest project.
A basic EXH Muff Fuzz.
Cased in 9mm (thick) acrylic sides, clear top, florescent green bottom. Laser cut.
Added LED and powered with 12 volts brought down to 9 volts with DCDC converter.
(Yes I was advised that the drop to 9 volts was not necessary)
Couple of tropical fish in the aquarium.
Added true bypass switch unique in that it has four reed switches inside the rear wall.
A slider containing two magnets activate the switches.
Three other magnets lock the slider in clean or fuzz position.
95mm x 65 mm x 35mm.
Wicked cool looking and Lots of gain with this build.
Last picture shown on my Less Paul.
Thanks all for the advice / education / forum.

[vigilante397]

Cased in 9mm (thick) acrylic sides, clear top, florescent green bottom. Laser cut.

Looks great  how big is your laser that you can do 9mm cuts? I can barely get through 5mm on a good day

[Phend]

^ 40 watts, speed 2 power 98, one pass, .005 kerf, accurate +/- .002 inch. Very smooth cut. (9mm thick)
The thinner top and bottom and slide parts cut a lot faster of course.

[Gattoconglistivali]

Full tube overdrive


https://u.cubeupload.com/Gattoconglistivali/IMG20210402092236.jpg


https://u.cubeupload.com/Gattoconglistivali/IMG20210402092240.jpg


https://u.cubeupload.com/Gattoconglistivali/IMG20210402092713.jpg


https://u.cubeupload.com/Gattoconglistivali/IMG20210402092543.jpg

Circuit design and sound :
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=126685.msg1212293#msg1212293

[any]

Ha! here's Major Mayhem, a 'forgotten' prototype for an effect so evil it is best to leave it be.
Envelope controlled DestructoRingFuzzulator, a Tone Masochists dream, and originally used for a while by a noise band,
but kept blowing up the op-amp, likely due to extremely poor circuit design. Just fired it up after 10 years and she still
screams so intensly f#in loud that it's unsafe at any master volume level.. lololol

Pretty from the inside though.

[eh la bas ma]

Aion's Redshift Phaser :

White acrylic coating, water soluble varnish, piece of cheap rice packaging.




Amazing effect, my favourite phaser so far. Even the pcb is beautiful.
I like the expensive Walrus Lillian, but this one sounds very good too and offers more possibilties.
I don't think there is any room for modifications with all these features. It covers pretty much everything, isn't it ?

Glory to Aion Electronics !

[Marcos - Munky]

piece of cheap rice packaging.

Which ended up being a awesome artwork for your pedal

[idiot savant]

Mini noise-synth thingy!

I wanted to make something fun but less complicated than a full-on synth.

There is no CV in, or out. All wiggling must be accomplished the old-fashioned way.

Interfacing is strictly limited to:

The control knobs & softpot "pitch strip".
Power input, anything from 9v-18v
External signal input(1/8" mono) for routing outside signals through the onboard effects.
Signal output - 1/8" mono jack.


Here's a breakdown of each section:

Oscillator - This is a PIC programmed with a simple square wave oscillator. Fundamental, octave up, and octave down outputs can all be mixed to make simple voices. The signal gets gated when you're not touching the pitch strip. Maximum range is about 2 octaves, any more than that and it becomes difficult to play actual notes with the softpot.

Filter - 2-pole state-variable filter, each output - HP/BP/LP - is brought out and can be blended for various filter sounds.

Delay - Basic PT2399 delay. Adds a nice extra dimension to round out this little noise maker.


I forgot to take gut shots, but it's mostly SMT. The photos make it difficult to tell how big the thing is. It's roughly 8" long 3.5" deep and about 1" tall. The softpot is the 150mm model. So a little under 6" of playing surface.

[ElectricDruid]

Groovy. I'm digging the coloured knobs. Nice to see a modern take on the stylophone concept too.

[garcho]

Nice job on the PICophone, it looks great, bravo!
I'm noodling with something a little similar, upgraded stylophone bass machine but with some of these Trill touch strip/touch screen things from Bela, maybe you'll think they're cool too:

https://learn.bela.io/products/trill/about-trill/

[idiot savant]

Groovy. I'm digging the coloured knobs. Nice to see a modern take on the stylophone concept too.

Nice job on the PICophone, it looks great, bravo!
I'm noodling with something a little similar, upgraded stylophone bass machine but with some of these Trill touch strip/touch screen things from Bela, maybe you'll think they're cool too:

https://learn.bela.io/products/trill/about-trill/

Thanks!

I had fun making them. They ended up as gifts for my coworkers.

Those Trill touch strips look pretty interesting, far more advanced than the softpots I used!

[garcho]

I believe someone from the company is a member here, that's how I heard of them; they did make a full disclosure   I'm glad they brought it up!