Pictures!

[Sody54]

My new Rangemaster.  Used a scrap part from work for the case.  Turned an aluminum disk on the lathe for the bottom and used a piece of 1/4" Lexan for the top.  Frosted the bottom side of the Lexan in the sandblaster.  Was going to put a high intensity blue LED inside, but decided to just do a normal setup instead.  Kind of wishing I'd gone with the blue inside now.  Oh well.  Just something a little different.

[MasaRGR]

Hi, this is my first post on this forum although I have spent months lurking, reading, and learning. This is my first effect project (that works anyway). I got the schematic and layout from a guitar magazine in Japan. It is a two-function pedal, a booster (high gain NPN transistor) and a volume control. The decal was just a joke - my daughter likes Spongebob and I thought she would get a kick out of it. Again, thanks to all the members of this forum for a wealth of information and advice.

Top view.


And the messy interior.

[Hiwatt25]

How did you squeeze that circuit board in there?  Can you share the schematic or link to the article?  How does it sound?

[zjokka]

A PT-80 delay with multicolor led and max1044 squeezed in:






zj

[marlin]

A rangemaster that i finished yesterday. Sounds awsome! Got the OC44 from Smallbear. One day i might paint my builds 

[Kornell]

Etching madness!! Thanks to MarkM for his wonderful tutorial. It's a small clone but I'm still developing some mods to be used with my bass.

[jmdfd415]

Nice looking small clone.  I just ordered all the parts for mine and hopefully I will get to build it next weekend.  How did you wire the level pot?  I seached and couldnt seem to find anything about a level pot for the small clone.

[Kornell]

Thanks. The level pot is just like the ce2 to ce2b conversion. Look at www.tonepad.com.

[ambulancevoice]

yay! i can see a millenium bypass! haha
has anyone every tried this bypass circuit
it seems like it works well and it looks really simple
http://experimentalistsanonymous.com/diy/Schematics/Buffers%20Switchers%20Mixers%20and%20Routers/DPDT%20TB%20w%20LED.gif
yet another use for a 2N3904

[stumper1]

Here's a SparkleBoost (Big THANKS to Dragonfly for a SUPERB sounding pedal!!!) with a second "Gain" knob and second footswitch to switch between the 2 different gain settings.  I built a SparkleBoost over a year ago and have used it ever since.  Started this pedal at least 6 months ago and got sidetracked building a couple of amps.  Used a bi-color LED for the "Gain" switch so you always know which setting it's on - even when the effect is off.

Second pedal is a Ross Comp clone in a Green Flame finish.  Pic isn't very good.

[StephenGiles]

Finger pointing eyes!!!


This man had 3 basses on stage!

[ambulancevoice]

you can never have to many

[Laus]

Here's a SparkleBoost (Big THANKS to Dragonfly for a SUPERB sounding pedal!!!) with a second "Gain" knob and second footswitch to switch between the 2 different gain settings.  I built a SparkleBoost over a year ago and have used it ever since.  Started this pedal at least 6 months ago and got sidetracked building a couple of amps.  Used a bi-color LED for the "Gain" switch so you always know which setting it's on - even when the effect is off.

Second pedal is a Ross Comp clone in a Green Flame finish.  Pic isn't very good.

beautiful painting! How did you do that?

[markm]

Etching madness!! Thanks to MarkM for his wonderful tutorial. It's a small clone but I'm still developing some mods to be used with my bass.

Careful, etching enclosures is addicting!
Nice work! 

[cheeb]

Stumper, I MUST know how you paint so beautifully! 

These things rock!

[stumper1]

Thanks guys.

The big trick to painting aluminum is getting it to stick.  I use an acid etch to promote adhesion then a two part epoxy primer.  Over that you can use whatever kind of paint you choose.  I use either water based colors by AutoAir or urethane based colors by PPG.  All followed by a urethane clear coat.

The woodgrain effect was rather easy once I stopped trying to do a specific kind of wood .  After the primer, I painted the box a creamish color (white with a little yellow mixed in).  Then I tore a piece of paper to use as a template and sprayed Candy Brown (that just sounds wrong), moved the template 3\8" or so, sprayed again and so on.  Finally splattered some black VERY lightly and gently pulled a bruch across to give it some "grain".  The clear coat is the biggest trick as it gives the other color some "depth".  The "binding" is enamel brushed on by hand AFTER clear coat and polishing.

The "rain drop" effect is done by first spraying your base - in this case a Lambroghini orange.  Then splash on REAL water drops.  From one side, mist black at the water drops.  From the other, mist white at the drops.  Let dry (let the water evaporate).  Then clear coat.  Again the clear makes it "happen".  This technique does NOT work with water based paints .

The green flames are various shades of candy green and blue over a gold base.  Again, it's all about the clear coat.

I use a cheap airbrush.  Spray in a WELL ventilated garage .  I am fortunate to have a good friend in the paint business who not only taught me most of the techniques I use, but also has tons of cool "leftover" colors.

The clear is ALWAYS nasty urethane .  Three of four coats. Let dry.  Wet sand to 2000grit. Polish.

[big bustle]

here's my orange squeezer clone with the trim pot moved to the outside of the box.

[tjcombs]

here's my orange squeezer clone with the trim pot moved to the outside of the box.

cuddly!

[ambulancevoice]

stumper1

you should to a pictorial for you painting technique, like mark m and his etching

[GonzoFonts]

stumper1,

AWESOME!!!

GF