Pictures!

[Andre]

Hey Man,

I really like your pedal board design.  Did you make it?  If so how much would you say it cost you to make it?
Also is your wah-wah pedal Velcro on to the board?  If so what did you have to do to get it to Velcro it?

I glued a piece of 9mm plywood, which is just a little thicker than the rubber feet, underneath my wah
and put the velcro on that.
Works fine for me.

André

[MarcoMike]

same 4 me! not plywood but a piece of plastic, works great!

[rikkards]

same 4 me! not plywood but a piece of plastic, works great!

I used to have a pedalboard that I bought with a bunch of pedals on it, what the guy had done was cut a piece of thin sheet metal that overlaid the board. He removed the backs of the pedals and drilled holes that matched up on said sheet metal with each of the pedals and attached the pedals directly to the sheetmetal. This was then attached to the top of the board. He had countersunk some holes in the pedal board to allow the screws to rest on the board without sticking out. Worked quite well and obviously had been planned out. Ended up selling the board and the pedals for about the price of buying a used Boss GT-6.

I got a router this year for Xmas and I am thinking of building one for about 5 pedals (4 1590BB and 1 1590B).

[DBDbadreligion]

same 4 me! not plywood but a piece of plastic, works great!

I used to have a pedalboard that I bought with a bunch of pedals on it, what the guy had done was cut a piece of thin sheet metal that overlaid the board. He removed the backs of the pedals and drilled holes that matched up on said sheet metal with each of the pedals and attached the pedals directly to the sheetmetal. This was then attached to the top of the board. He had countersunk some holes in the pedal board to allow the screws to rest on the board without sticking out. Worked quite well and obviously had been planned out. Ended up selling the board and the pedals for about the price of buying a used Boss GT-6.

I got a router this year for Xmas and I am thinking of building one for about 5 pedals (4 1590BB and 1 1590B).

those are all really great ideas.
i think I will try using the plastic.

[rikkards]

I thought so as well but looking into suggestions on this forum, if you do a lot of gigging, the method used on my old one to attach them were a little too permanent because if something died and you wanted to swap it out for another spare you would have some issues as there wasn't enough room to pull out the cables once they were attached. Also easy swapping was not possible. Something to keep in mind. If you are a guitar noodler at home like myself then it isn't much of a concern.

same 4 me! not plywood but a piece of plastic, works great!

I used to have a pedalboard that I bought with a bunch of pedals on it, what the guy had done was cut a piece of thin sheet metal that overlaid the board. He removed the backs of the pedals and drilled holes that matched up on said sheet metal with each of the pedals and attached the pedals directly to the sheetmetal. This was then attached to the top of the board. He had countersunk some holes in the pedal board to allow the screws to rest on the board without sticking out. Worked quite well and obviously had been planned out. Ended up selling the board and the pedals for about the price of buying a used Boss GT-6.

I got a router this year for Xmas and I am thinking of building one for about 5 pedals (4 1590BB and 1 1590B).

those are all really great ideas.
i think I will try using the plastic.

[AzzR]

My pedalboard is just MDF sheets. One piece with all the pedals on it and another at the back to support the board on an angle. Covered the whole thing with felt and have velcro'd all the pedals so they stay. The board has slots cut in it so that I can hide excess cable. If you do this carefull with your slots because as expected they significantly weaken the board. Works well for me though since I dont stomp the crap outta it. Takes my weight which is all that matters

[petemoore]

  Mine has pedals mounted on 1'' x 3'' boards [one each for elevated back and front row].
  Then I mount all the box bottoms on those, which leaves the bottom mounting plate screws all accessible, to remove a pedal, I just tip the whole pedalboard unit on it's side, remove 4 screws, 3 jacks..it's out.
  I had to use ultra hardwood for the 'spanners'..3/4'' strips of teac, glued And screwed, to connect and keep the 3 boards which run from right to left rigidly square.
 
  Side view...

                         P E D A ls
                            Board
P E D A LS               I  I
    Board_________Board
   
  the '_________' is the teac, the board on the right bottom is there for assembly/rigidity, so the top left board has something to hold to, the 'I I' is two short blocks of 2x4..pillars for the 'step up' backrow of pedals...inbetween those pillars is a Pedalboard Power II +.
  Fairly simple, lightweight, strong, allows pedals to come and go easily as they please...mostly, a couple tight spots in the top board requires a screw bit turned by hand [then pliers for the last 'wedge-turn' on the screw]...that's all theres room for...I call it a 'compromise' instead of an 'oversight'.

[evilpaul]

I built the Gus Smalley NPN Boost yesterday. I normally etch, but I enjoyed doing a perf layout, I'll have to try it again in the future.
I've started on gaussmarkov's "DOD 250 on a breadboard" project too. I don't consider myself a beginner, but it was really enjoyable to put together a nice easy circuit and learning how to prototype better is a definite plus.

The tin was something I picked up from the $2 store last week, it's only 3cm deep, so I think it would stand up pretty well if I used a stompswitch, I just didn't have one handy.

[kurtlives]

Vero boards waiting for the off-board. MKII (germs in the mail), Fulltone Fat Boost and Dan Armstrong Orange Squeezer




I decided a few days to organize my shop a bit. More better now, makes working much easier.

[Valoosj]

My active volumepedal. Guts can be found in my pedalboard thread (see sig).


I still have to get used to the knob, I was so stupid to cut off the rubbers, so it's very sensitive to switch when you don't want it to.

[moro]

I still have to get used to the knob, I was so stupid to cut off the rubbers, so it's very sensitive to switch when you don't want it to.

Do you mean the little rubber pads on the bottom of the rocker pedal? I've been considering removing those on my Crybaby because I have to practically stand on top of the thing to turn it on / off.

I guess it's a bad idea?

[momo]

My active volumepedal. Guts can be found in my pedalboard thread (see sig).


I still have to get used to the knob, I was so stupid to cut off the rubbers, so it's very sensitive to switch when you don't want it to.

Yea I did the same thing because I wanted more sweep action, turns out I could of glued the bits back, but I like the extra range I get and got used to it without hitting the switch while using it.

[moro]

MarkM Hearthrob:





I was having volume issues so I stuck an LPB-1 after it and that seems to work great. Though if I'd planned a little better, I could have stuck it all on one board. (The LPB-1 is that little blue board.)

[jayp5150]

Do you mean the little rubber pads on the bottom of the rocker pedal? I've been considering removing those on my Crybaby because I have to practically stand on top of the thing to turn it on / off.

I guess it's a bad idea?

I always trim mine down by half, then adjust the switch to compensate--one of those preference things lol.

The tin was something I picked up from the $2 store last week, it's only 3cm deep, so I think it would stand up pretty well if I used a stompswitch, I just didn't have one handy.

That's a cool tin. When I've built stuff into not-so-sturdy cases (like Fossil watch tins), I made a bracket out of sheet metal that helped to support the top where the switch is--mounted it right on the switch, and extended the sheet metal to the bottom--like a small piece of angle iron... but sheetmetal lol.

[Valoosj]

I tried adjusting the pedal, but it's not that easy. I'll try again tomorrow.

[PerroGrande]

The most exciting PCB for me in quite a while...



...

Well, we all have to start somewhere!



My first SMT build -- an AMZ Mosfet Boost for inside one of my guitars.  And it even worked!      

I know -- it is kinda sloppy (and I kinda got carried away tinning the grounds -- but it was kinda fun...).  My technique got better as I went along -- I've never used a hot-air station before, and I'm not sure of temperatures, nozzles, etc.  But I'm learning!   (And yes, it is missing one cap (47pf) -- will be added later. The resistors are 1206 size, which aren't so bad.  However, the caps are 0805 size, which are a bit harder to deal with.)

[jakenold]

MarkM Hearthrob:





I was having volume issues so I stuck an LPB-1 after it and that seems to work great. Though if I'd planned a little better, I could have stuck it all on one board. (The LPB-1 is that little blue board.)

Beautiful. How did you paint that?

[andrew_k]

MarkM Hearthrob:

How are the mounting screws attached to the case? I've not yet worked out a way of getting good clearance of the pots/jacks/etc 

[ambulancevoice]

if you look closely you can see glue holding the stands in place
epoxy or jbweld maybe?? or hot glue

[Papa_lazerous]

The most exciting PCB for me in quite a while...



My first SMT build -- an AMZ Mosfet Boost for inside one of my guitars.  And it even worked!      

I know -- it is kinda sloppy (and I kinda got carried away tinning the grounds -- but it was kinda fun...).  My technique got better as I went along -- I've never used a hot-air station before, and I'm not sure of temperatures, nozzles, etc.  But I'm learning!   (And yes, it is missing one cap (47pf) -- will be added later. The resistors are 1206 size, which aren't so bad.  However, the caps are 0805 size, which are a bit harder to deal with.)

Truly amazing, I want to mess with surface mounts sometime not sure what to buy though, or if its cheaper??