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Started by Hal, August 23, 2005, 01:58:47 PM

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Austin73

how do you cut the plexi glass to shape? and do you place the led in the middle after sanding it down?

Cheers

Aus
Bazz Fuss, Red LLama, Harmonic Jerkulator, LoFo MoFo, NPN Boost, Bronx Cheer, AB Box, Dual Loop, Crash Sync

Timebutt

I cut the plexi using a small jigsaw, thought it was going to melt but it didn't. I did have to sand it down a lot because it's very hard to get a straight line.
I used two superbright white 5mm LED's mounted in the enclosure, there was no need to sand them down as they give a very even diffusion of light. The resistors used for the LED's are very small though: 390ohm per LED. Very very bright light inside :P
Completed Projects: Gus Smalley Booster, Modded Russian Big Muff, Orange Squeezer, BYOC Vibrato, Phase 90

DougH

"I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you."



Volkmar

Layout DIY ^)
i have a soft fot this.
what's a shit?

DWBH

Quote from: Timebutt on January 29, 2008, 09:11:06 AM
I cut the plexi using a small jigsaw, thought it was going to melt but it didn't. I did have to sand it down a lot because it's very hard to get a straight line.
I used two superbright white 5mm LED's mounted in the enclosure, there was no need to sand them down as they give a very even diffusion of light. The resistors used for the LED's are very small though: 390ohm per LED. Very very bright light inside :P

Did you put the LEDs through the plexiglass panel? Or you just put them aiming at the plexiglass? Can you post some pictures illustrating that?

Thomas3D

Quote from: petemoore on January 19, 2008, 10:03:58 PM
Used a matched FET from Frys
  Really nice graphic color displayon the 45...
  are these FET's are matched for Vgsoff ?

Yeah, I tested it in a jfet matcher and got 2.35 and 2.34, which is high;
I have to put the internal trimpot all the way down to get a phase sound.

jakenold

Quote from: Timebutt on January 29, 2008, 09:11:06 AM
I cut the plexi using a small jigsaw, thought it was going to melt but it didn't. I did have to sand it down a lot because it's very hard to get a straight line.
I used two superbright white 5mm LED's mounted in the enclosure, there was no need to sand them down as they give a very even diffusion of light. The resistors used for the LED's are very small though: 390ohm per LED. Very very bright light inside :P

How did you mount it to the enclosure? Doesn't that high "frame" on the lid keep it from being flush to the lid?

Valoosj

At the end my webcam couldn't capture enough frames per second to show how fast the led blinks.

Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

Pushtone

Quote from: jakenold on January 29, 2008, 04:01:25 PM

Doesn't that high "frame" on the lid keep it from being flush to the lid?



I'm wondering that too.

I suppose one would have to file down the lip on the box lid to make it flush.
It's time to buy a gun. That's what I've been thinking.
Maybe I can afford one, if I do a little less drinking. - Fred Eaglesmith

Valoosj

Indeed, and it takes about 10 minutes depending on the size of your box.
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

Timebutt

Yep filing seems to be the way to go: I used a big and heavy metal file, no more than 10 minutes of work as Valoosj mentioned.
Wow, currently only Benelux people working on the plexiglass idea ;)

What circuit did you use to make the LED's blink Valoosj?
Completed Projects: Gus Smalley Booster, Modded Russian Big Muff, Orange Squeezer, BYOC Vibrato, Phase 90

Valoosj

It's in my tremulus lune. Very disco like at high speeds.
To add mojo to any pedal you could just build a simple lfo for the led.
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

DWBH

Quote from: DWBH on January 29, 2008, 02:47:30 PM
Quote from: Timebutt on January 29, 2008, 09:11:06 AM
I cut the plexi using a small jigsaw, thought it was going to melt but it didn't. I did have to sand it down a lot because it's very hard to get a straight line.
I used two superbright white 5mm LED's mounted in the enclosure, there was no need to sand them down as they give a very even diffusion of light. The resistors used for the LED's are very small though: 390ohm per LED. Very very bright light inside :P

Did you put the LEDs through the plexiglass panel? Or you just put them aiming at the plexiglass? Can you post some pictures illustrating that?

:(

Timebutt

The LED's are not through the plexiglass, they are both aiming towards it. If I get the camera in my hands later today I will post a picture of the inside. Basically I mounted the LED's using their legs as support: both are 'floating' around in the enclosure but because they're held in place by their two legs it's a very sturdy construction, hope this helps?
Completed Projects: Gus Smalley Booster, Modded Russian Big Muff, Orange Squeezer, BYOC Vibrato, Phase 90

jakenold

Ahh OK; I'm gonna have to try this out. I've done this a couple of time's with wah-wahs, as their base is very easy to cut out and replace. I even did a project once with a Morley optical wah, where I installed two additional LDR's, that switch between a red color in the heel position and a blue color in the toe position. Looked really cool if you're into that kinda thing!

Jake

Valoosj

I put the led straight through. This had the best effect. I did try it out at first on a small piece though.
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

Boogdish

I've been watching this thread since I started lurking the board in November, time for my first post.

those are my first two builds, the left is a GGG tubescreamer built with Landgraff (or what I'm told are Landgraff) specs.  The right is a Tycobrahe Octavia.

I finished the screamer this morning and I was pretty happy with the textured look to the finish.  You can also see that I used a 1M pot for the drive and I accidentally got one with a longer shaft than I should've. Or maybe I'm trying to send a strong message about the importance of drive knobs.

another closeup.  The "8" is from the first paintjob I tried on this, but I wasn't happy with it and so I decided to paint over it.  I'm pretty happy with how it looks.

syndromet

Quote from: Volkmar on January 29, 2008, 11:47:54 AM
BOGNER SHARP clone








samples
http://alm.org.ua/photos/mysor/SuisideMix.mp3
http://alm.org.ua/photos/mysor/LostMix.mp3
http://alm.org.ua/photos/mysor/zMix.mp3

Wow! This thing looks as good as it sounds! Love the Paradise lost riff in there. I was almost waiting for mr. Holmes to start singing. I would love a copy of the schematic and layout, if you care to share.
My diy-site: www.syndromet.com