Pictures!

[juse]

My two latest projects, a Colorsound Overdriver clone and an OLC Chunky Cheese in a Hammond sloped enclosure. They aren't wired up yet so no gut shots. I plan on trying my hand at screen printed graphics with these as well.

That orange & black is nice! I'd be tempted to leave the lettering off.

[jefe]

Just some pics of my stuff;



Some more toys (clockwise from top): 2 MIJ CE-2's (Green Label '83, Black Label '82), Script Phase 90 (no logo left, no I didn't butcher it for AC, I bought a 1590 enclosure and used the bottom), '85 DOD FX 80, '89 MIJ DC-2, '68 Vox Wah, 18V Cool Cat, early '80's Vesta Chorus, '83 MIJ CE-3, Dano Chicken Salad, '95 SD-2

Nice gear!

I had to laugh when I saw your Vesta chorus - I just finished a Rebote 2 in an old Vesta distortion enclosure. Cool.

[jakenold]

May I ask, are there any advantages of using rectifying tubes these days? Is there some thread/article about it?

Valve rectifiers have a sag to them, due to their inefficiency. It catches that vintage vibe very nicely, and works sort of like a mild compression. That's what the SuperReverb is all about! Also, you don't really need a stand-by switch, as the valve itself needs to warm up before it can conduct, and therefore gives the rest of the valves time to warm up as well.

Jake

[krhnyc]

Just some pics of my stuff;



Some more toys (clockwise from top): 2 MIJ CE-2's (Green Label '83, Black Label '82), Script Phase 90 (no logo left, no I didn't butcher it for AC, I bought a 1590 enclosure and used the bottom), '85 DOD FX 80, '89 MIJ DC-2, '68 Vox Wah, 18V Cool Cat, early '80's Vesta Chorus, '83 MIJ CE-3, Dano Chicken Salad, '95 SD-2

Nice gear!

I had to laugh when I saw your Vesta chorus - I just finished a Rebote 2 in an old Vesta distortion enclosure. Cool.

I'm telling you, that Vesta rules. For the Metheny tones, leslie stuff... anything thick and big. Not nearly as subtle as a Boss, but excellent. Not noisy, and no high end or low end loss, I'll never sell it. I have a load of choruses and I cycle them in and out as my tastes change. Sometimes, just changing the character of an effect will make you approach your sound differently. For instance, I love rolling the tone back on my hollowbodies and using the green ringer for soloing on my jazz gigs. Almost imparts that hammond high note sound.

[andrew_k]

For instance, I love rolling the tone back on my hollowbodies and using the green ringer for soloing on my jazz gigs. Almost imparts that hammond high note sound.

 
Hmm.. I have a green ringer.. and a hollow body.. and I like jazz... I'll have to try that, thanks for the tip 

[gutsofgold]

All you guys using those plastic (isolated) in and out jacks...where are you grounding too!?

I've searched through almost every page of this thread hoping to catch a glimpse of someone using the plastic "Marshall" jacks and see where they were grounding too but I came up with nothing. 

[SonicVI]

Everything is grounded like normal except you have to connect the grounds of the jacks together. 

[ambulancevoice]

May I ask, are there any advantages of using rectifying tubes these days? Is there some thread/article about it?

Valve rectifiers have a sag to them, due to their inefficiency. It catches that vintage vibe very nicely, and works sort of like a mild compression. That's what the SuperReverb is all about! Also, you don't really need a stand-by switch, as the valve itself needs to warm up before it can conduct, and therefore gives the rest of the valves time to warm up as well.

Jake

actually, tube rectifiers heat up in a few seconds, regular tubes need at least something like 5 mins
im gonna be safe and try to save my tubes for a longer life by adding a standby switch to any tube amp i build

[bancika]

actually, tube rectifiers heat up in a few seconds, regular tubes need at least something like 5 mins
im gonna be safe and try to save my tubes for a longer life by adding a standby switch to any tube amp i build

I don't think that's not really true, preamp tubes will heat up for less than 10 seconds and power amp tubes depending on the size between 10 seconds and a minute...

[ambulancevoice]

actually, tube rectifiers heat up in a few seconds, regular tubes need at least something like 5 mins
im gonna be safe and try to save my tubes for a longer life by adding a standby switch to any tube amp i build

I don't think that's not really true, preamp tubes will heat up for less than 10 seconds and power amp tubes depending on the size between 10 seconds and a minute...

oh, well, i always see stuff about standby's and how you should give the tubes around 5 mins to heat up

[birt]

Everything is grounded like normal except you have to connect the grounds of the jacks together. 

and then you have no grounded enclosure. and no shielding.


i personally ground the enclosure with a stiff wire coming from the DC jack. it has a ring soldered to it that is screwed between the 2 halves of the enclosure in one corner.

[bancika]

oh, well, i always see stuff about standby's and how you should give the tubes around 5 mins to heat up

do a test, turn the amp on and at the same time turn the standby on, try to strum strings and count how much time it takes for sound to come out of the speaker. Tubes will start conducting once they are warmed up.
Many people think that standby switch is not important for guitar amps, i.e. applying voltage on cold tubes won't shorten their life. All ENGL amps, for instance, have standby which only mutes output of the amp, but voltage is still applied to both preamp and power amp tubes.
Sorry for going OT

[Valoosj]

Everything is grounded like normal except you have to connect the grounds of the jacks together. 

and then you have no grounded enclosure. and no shielding.


i personally ground the enclosure with a stiff wire coming from the DC jack. it has a ring soldered to it that is screwed between the 2 halves of the enclosure in one corner.

Maybe that's the reason that I hear this little click when I touch my pedals' switch with my fingers. I get the same noise when I touch any metal part on my guitar.

[~arph]

is your amp plugged into a grounded socket? if there is a DC offset between the ground on your guitar/pedals/amp and the ground you're standing on there will be a faint tick when you touch any grounded surface in your gear.

[ANDYEFFECT]

my GT2, Marshall and Pedal Dr Boogey



hugs

[SonicVI]

Everything is grounded like normal except you have to connect the grounds of the jacks together. 

and then you have no grounded enclosure. and no shielding.


i personally ground the enclosure with a stiff wire coming from the DC jack. it has a ring soldered to it that is screwed between the 2 halves of the enclosure in one corner.

You could use the pots as a ground point to the chassis as well.

[jrc4558]

Can you guess what this is? 

Клевое название выбрал. Лучше уже Истерика тогда.

[slacker]

All you guys using those plastic (isolated) in and out jacks...where are you grounding too!?

I don't know what anyone else does but what I do is wrap some stranded wire around the washer that you get with the jack sockets and then solder that to the sleeve lug of the output jack. That then connects the enclosure to ground.

You can just about see it in this picture, on the right hand jack s%^&*et.

[free electron]

Inspired by Dragonfly, my attempts to swirl painting:

[cpnyc23]

i really that you labeled your swirl! 

how did you do it? decals? if so, what kind are you using?  they look great!

-chris