Pictures!

[Stu Diddly]

What kind of wire did you use? 

[snoof]

Here's the latest pedal I built, it's phase 90 made from tonepad board. It features few switchable mods as you can see.

I've actually just ordered the same board, care to tell me about your mods?   I've got the depth mod figured out, but whats the third knob?

[guitarman89]

Here's the latest pedal I built, it's phase 90 made from tonepad board. It features few switchable mods as you can see.

I suggest to add the rate led! it's awesome! I have it on mine and it is a great simple mod! Just connect a 1K res to the 7th pin of ic1 (which is the one dedicated to LFO and to the input buffer) to the anode of a led, and it's cathode to ground.

[snoof]

nice, i'll look into that

Guitarman; FYI... if, when you quote, you leave out the pic links, it makes for a more streamlined thread...  But here I am asking OT questions in a pictures thread, so what do I know

[bancika]

Stu Diddly, it's #22 silver teflon wire that I use for building amps. It's not really easy to work with for such small enclosures because it's not really flexible, but I love the fact that it doesn't melt.
snoof, switch is for vibrato, it's switching out 150K resistor (dry signal), actually it breaks that connection. 3rd pot is variable resonance instead of 24K resistor. It's 20K resistor wired between wiper and outer lug of the 100K linear pot. I connected outer lugs to the board where 24K usually goes. This way I get range between 18K and 100K, doesn't do too much, but I had a spare hole on the enclosure.

[RedHouse]

Stu Diddly, it's #22 silver teflon wire that I use for building amps. It's not really easy to work with for such small enclosures because it's not really flexible, but I love the fact that it doesn't melt.
snoof, switch is for vibrato, it's switching out 150K resistor (dry signal), actually it breaks that connection. 3rd pot is variable resonance instead of 24K resistor. It's 20K resistor wired between wiper and outer lug of the 100K linear pot. I connected outer lugs to the board where 24K usually goes. This way I get range between 18K and 100K, doesn't do too much, but I had a spare hole on the enclosure.

Where do you buy your wire?  (apexjr?)

[snoof]

Stu Diddly, it's #22 silver teflon wire that I use for building amps. It's not really easy to work with for such small enclosures because it's not really flexible, but I love the fact that it doesn't melt.
snoof, switch is for vibrato, it's switching out 150K resistor (dry signal), actually it breaks that connection. 3rd pot is variable resonance instead of 24K resistor. It's 20K resistor wired between wiper and outer lug of the 100K linear pot. I connected outer lugs to the board where 24K usually goes. This way I get range between 18K and 100K, doesn't do too much, but I had a spare hole on the enclosure.

thanks for the explanation!!

[letsgocoyote]

does some crazy gated motor synth stuff

[bancika]

Where do you buy your wire?  (apexjr?)

I got it from eBay, but apexjr has it too (I got some shielded teflon wire from him).

[fluoreszenz]

Just finished the "tubesteamer" (TS 808) i built for a friend... 

[Valoosj]

A custom order, looks like it came straight out of space

text isn't too readable in the pics, but irl it is.

[mr.adambeck]

How do you do that, (with the bottom of the pedal changing colors)?  Is it an LED inside, over plexiglass?  Is there a tutorial anywhere for this?

[Pushtone]

You'll have to hunt back several pages in this thread for the Plexiglass trick.

No tutorial on how to do it but hints (good hints) are given.

Then its up to you to make it work with what your building.

[Renegadrian]

The tube steamer is so good, simple but effective...And god, that TL...Jaw dropping... (should be a jaw dropping icon...)

[kurtlives]

For the plexi glass all you need is plexi glass and dont forget to counter sink the bolts.

[sshrugg]

For the plexi glass all you need is plexi glass and dont forget to counter sink the bolts.

The only difficulty I had with mine is sanding down the lip of the enclosures lid so it would sit right up against the plexiglass.  Took a million years, but it's worth it.

[danielzink]

For the plexi glass all you need is plexi glass and dont forget to counter sink the bolts.

Why would you counter sink the bolts ?
You still need the bottom plate of the enclosure........and that's counter-sunk....

Dan

[Dragonfly]

I urge you guys to start looking at this thread at the beginning... look at the builds people were doing just a couple of years ago. While they were charming in their own right, and many looked pretty cool (especially for their time), they are nowhere near what you guys are turning out these days ! Some of these builds you guys are doing...even "first" and "second" builds...are just mind boggling to those of us who have been around for a while. Amazing !

[andrew_k]

I urge you guys to start looking at this thread at the beginning...

Did that before I bought my first soldering iron. This thread is the single most inspiring thing I've ever seen on a forum 
It's a real shame many of the photos in the early posts are starting to disappear due to hosting.

[juse]

For the plexi glass all you need is plexi glass and dont forget to counter sink the bolts.

The only difficulty I had with mine is sanding down the lip of the enclosures lid so it would sit right up against the plexiglass.  Took a million years, but it's worth it.

Melt it into the plexi with an iron... lay the plexi on a table or bench or whatever, then the lid on top of it with the lip/ridge side down, then the iron on the top. Press the iron against the lid until it is warm enough to melt down into the plexi. Piece of cake. Then you have a channel that the lid will always sit in.