Pictures!

[cloudscapes]

Thanks guys! (regarding the vibrato)

I suppose if you really want I could fix up and post the schematic, but I dont know what good that'll do for most people because the LFO is entirely done in code (using an AVR attiny84). I suppose I could post that too. It's coded in the Bascom language. You of course need to be equiped to program micros.

It's just a 2399 with no feedback. Otherwise, it's fairly simple. I used the Rebote 2.5's tone stack to get rid of a lot of the 2399's noise, and some more caps in the buffer opamps feedback to get rid of nearly all the PWM noise. the attiny84 drives a couple of NPNs (BC547), which in turn drive the blinking LEDs and the 2399's delay time. The attiny84 also cycles through the 5 LFO leds from a pot's input (it's not a switch). One of the NPNs modulates the common ground of the LEDs so that they follow the waveform.

One day I'll try this again but with some BBDs. I haven't really touched those yet and they seem a bit daunting. I don't have a scope for calibration.

[WhenBoredomPeaks]

Thanks guys! (regarding the vibrato)

I suppose if you really want I could fix up and post the schematic, but I dont know what good that'll do for most people because the LFO is entirely done in code (using an AVR attiny84). I suppose I could post that too. It's coded in the Bascom language. You of course need to be equiped to program micros.

It's just a 2399 with no feedback. Otherwise, it's fairly simple. I used the Rebote 2.5's tone stack to get rid of a lot of the 2399's noise, and some more caps in the buffer opamps feedback to get rid of nearly all the PWM noise. the attiny84 drives a couple of NPNs (BC547), which in turn drive the blinking LEDs and the 2399's delay time. The attiny84 also cycles through the 5 LFO leds from a pot's input (it's not a switch). One of the NPNs modulates the common ground of the LEDs so that they follow the waveform.

One day I'll try this again but with some BBDs. I haven't really touched those yet and they seem a bit daunting. I don't have a scope for calibration.

I did some experimental stuff with Arduino before, but it is quite easy to program, there is USB connection and a quite friendly interface.

I could buy a few AVR attinys, but what should i get to upload code into their ram/rom?

But what i absolutely love about your pedals is their design. Keep up the good work!

[danielzink]

Nice pedal - I need to spend some more time with it and figure it out completely. So far - very nice with an overly bright amp. Too dark for an already dark amp though.





Dan

[John Lyons]

Nice box, where did you get that?   

The graphics turned out great. Decal?

John

[Valoosj]

No more micro pedals?

[Taylor]

Nice pedal - I need to spend some more time with it and figure it out completely. So far - very nice with an overly bright amp. Too dark for an already dark amp though.



Dan

I can tell some meticulous parts sourcing went into this. I especially like those squat electros - who makes those? I generally buy electros in the hundreds, so I just grab the absolute cheapest, but those would be neat for certain things.

[rousejeremy]

Thanks guys! (regarding the vibrato)

I suppose if you really want I could fix up and post the schematic, but I dont know what good that'll do for most people because the LFO is entirely done in code (using an AVR attiny84). I suppose I could post that too. It's coded in the Bascom language. You of course need to be equiped to program micros.

It's just a 2399 with no feedback. Otherwise, it's fairly simple. I used the Rebote 2.5's tone stack to get rid of a lot of the 2399's noise, and some more caps in the buffer opamps feedback to get rid of nearly all the PWM noise. the attiny84 drives a couple of NPNs (BC547), which in turn drive the blinking LEDs and the 2399's delay time. The attiny84 also cycles through the 5 LFO leds from a pot's input (it's not a switch). One of the NPNs modulates the common ground of the LEDs so that they follow the waveform.

One day I'll try this again but with some BBDs. I haven't really touched those yet and they seem a bit daunting. I don't have a scope for calibration.

Buh?

[cloudscapes]

Buh?

its the heat
it's like a million degrees here with the humidity so that might be why I sound like I dont know what I'm talking about

[danielzink]

No more micro pedals?

do not worry my friend...................

[danielzink]

You like it ?

I got it from guy in the for sale section.....

and then right after I bought it - he came out with two new colors that would've looked wonderful as well.......

Full face decal with silver paint pen under all the lettering/bee........

huge pain in the rear - but worth the effort !

Dan

Nice box, where did you get that?   

The graphics turned out great. Decal?

John

[John Lyons]

Well it paid off because it looks great.
I think the colors work well and the silver
sharpie is very clever.

John

[Hanglow]

A Mosrite Fuzzrite and Maestro MFZ1

It's a good combination for fuzz heads

[danielzink]

The electros are from Mouser 100µf 16v or 25v both same size

140-L16V100-RC

140-L25V100-RC

Dan

Nice pedal - I need to spend some more time with it and figure it out completely. So far - very nice with an overly bright amp. Too dark for an already dark amp though.



Dan

I can tell some meticulous parts sourcing went into this. I especially like those squat electros - who makes those? I generally buy electros in the hundreds, so I just grab the absolute cheapest, but those would be neat for certain things.

[Volkmar]

Hello!
It's my new project
Tube amp - Fender Twin preamp type, output power ~ 5w, Cabinet with Celestion G12H

[bobp1339]

Needed something to clean up my signal.  Works great.
Used a TS522IN on my own layout.
This was also the first time I used CAD to layout the box.  I would highly recommend this to anyone.
I just used Google Sketchup. It took me about an hour to get comfortable with using it, but it is a great tool.




peace

[Nitefly182]

Easyvibe w/ Lera

[darron]

Needed something to clean up my signal.  Works great.
Used a TS522IN on my own layout.
This was also the first time I used CAD to layout the box.  I would highly recommend this to anyone.
I just used Google Sketchup. It took me about an hour to get comfortable with using it, but it is a great tool.

peace

lowest part count ever! hehe (: nice and neat

[bobp1339]

lowest part count ever! hehe (: nice and neat

LOL... Yeah, I built that to take a break from a bass preamp that I am designing and building. 

BobP

[jmwreck]

this is my DIY mini amp, based on NOISYCRICKET, its a preamp, but i will make a built in speaker using SMOKEYAMP layout for the poweramp stage..

here are the pictures, sorry for the quality,

[markeebee]

Hello!
It's my new project
Tube amp - Fender Twin preamp type, output power ~ 5w, Cabinet with Celestion G12H

[

That's very lovely.

What valves are you using? 
And how did you legend the front panel?
And, most of all, does the pressing iron get hot enough on the filament voltage?