Pictures!

[omarvolta]

So I have a question:
How are people attaching their boards to their enclosures?  I've been drilling holes in my stripboard and using those white, plastic "feet", but I kinda don't like them (they can take up more space than needed sometimes), and I've noticed that a lot of the gutshots on this thread don't use them.  So I was just curious, what is keeping most of these boards in place?

Thanks!

Double sided foam tape.

[Strategy]

Here are my pics, finally, for my 2009 builds. I'm not so great about taking pictures 
cheers & thanks to this forum for advice during builds...

4ms Noise Swash: all offboard wiring, box powdercoated at a local Portland, OR motorcycle body shop.


Stage Center Reverb: done, but need to do mods: power switch, high/hiss roll-off, and shock absorbers or alternate footswitch to reduce shaking.


Maestro Ring Modulator: GGG board and my own PSU. My first project and the hardest so far. Done as a rhodes-top/desk-top console using Teko enclosure and 70s-hi-fi-set-styled knobs.


Orange Squeezer (small orange pedal), itty-bitty Atari Punk Console ("Deluxe" pcb by GetLoFi.com), and Weird Sound Generator (burned my own pcb based on the version 1 design on MusicFromOuterSpace.com

[64fx]

Built this a while back but never posted a picture.  Hearthrob Tremolo with 1/2 Speed Switch on the right Footswitch.




Rehoused Danelectro Cool Cat Vibe with the flashing LED mod, mod to fix the delay and added internal volume pot to fix boost.




Love everyone else's work.  It's so inspiring!

[ShortScaleMike]

[kurtlives]

What are those effects Mike?

My guess is a OCD and a HBee...

[station]

So I have a question:
How are people attaching their boards to their enclosures?  I've been drilling holes in my stripboard and using those white, plastic "feet", but I kinda don't like them (they can take up more space than needed sometimes), and I've noticed that a lot of the gutshots on this thread don't use them.  So I was just curious, what is keeping most of these boards in place?

Thanks!

I've taken a cue from Frequency Central and have been using PC mount pots and connecting them roght to the circuit board:

[frequencycentral]

I've made a half dozen of these this week. Phew! Don't let anyone tell you it's easy! One of this batch is still for sale. These latest ones are fitted with an extra switch on the top to select between ground biased pentode or negative biased pentode. Ground biased is a little louder and crunchier, negative biased cleans things up somewhat.

More details here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=78589.0

[Valoosj]

Looks great Rick.

[azrael]

ShortScaleMike: Looks good, but why leave so much thread showing on the 3PDT's? I don't trust people, haha - I feel like the lengthened switch gives them a greater probably of stepping on it at an angle and totally mangling the innards. I've seen it happen, so I mount my switches with the nut all the way to the top of the thread.

[Barcode80]

ShortScaleMike: Looks good, but why leave so much thread showing on the 3PDT's? I don't trust people, haha - I feel like the lengthened switch gives them a greater probably of stepping on it at an angle and totally mangling the innards. I've seen it happen, so I mount my switches with the nut all the way to the top of the thread.

because the less thread showing, the less stable the threading is, and thus the more likely to spin loose and start pulling internal wiring. at least in my experience.

[juse]

ShortScaleMike: Looks good, but why leave so much thread showing on the 3PDT's? I don't trust people, haha - I feel like the lengthened switch gives them a greater probably of stepping on it at an angle and totally mangling the innards. I've seen it happen, so I mount my switches with the nut all the way to the top of the thread.

because the less thread showing, the less stable the threading is, and thus the more likely to spin loose and start pulling internal wiring. at least in my experience.

Having the nut at the top of the thread would make it easier to knock the switch into the box as well.

[Fuzz Aldryn]

What are those effects Mike?

My guess is a OCD and a HBee...

Hi,

no. Looks like an OCD and a MI Audio Crunch Box Klon - which could also be a reason for the choosen colour scheme, right?

Cheers
Helge

[Processaurus]

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/000_0013.jpg

I was wondering where you got those full flavor rollbar/handles at?  The only ones I've been able to get are slimmer.  The lite version.

[bean]

Tonebender. Needs a little deug, but otherwise sounds pretty over the top!

[bobp1339]

Tonebender. Needs a little deug, but otherwise sounds pretty over the top!

Nice finish, I love the knobs being the same scheme as the box!

[azrael]

because the less thread showing, the less stable the threading is, and thus the more likely to spin loose and start pulling internal wiring. at least in my experience.

Having the nut at the top of the thread would make it easier to knock the switch into the box as well.

Mmm....I don't agree with either statement. If you tighten the nut properly, neither should happen.

[deaconque]

Tonebender. Needs a little deug, but otherwise sounds pretty over the top!

Very nice finish.

[frequencycentral]

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/000_0013.jpg

I was wondering where you got those full flavor rollbar/handles at?  The only ones I've been able to get are slimmer.  The lite version.

They're from B&Q in the UK. Nice and chunky.

[jacobyjd]

They're from B&Q in the UK. Nice and chunky.

I read that as 'BBQ' and thought, "Mmmmm...chunky barbecue!"

My lunch seems inadequate now...

[frequencycentral]

They're from B&Q in the UK. Nice and chunky.

I read that as 'BBQ' and thought, "Mmmmm...chunky barbecue!"

My lunch seems inadequate now...

Well B&Q do also sell BBQ's!