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Started by Hal, August 23, 2005, 01:58:47 PM

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Taylor

Some of the most "tone/mojo" pedals according to golden ear types, such as Lovepedal, are all SMT. Not that that really means much, because of the hype, but the kind of people who claim to hear different batteries don't seem to mind surface mount parts, so....

cloudscapes

On a related note, does the size of electronytics matter in stompbox designs? I hear different answers depending what I read, hi-fi audio, MHz-range electronics, etc. Does it matter for our limited bandwidth?
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deaconque

Finished this one today.  Barber LTD Silver.  The picture doesn't really show it but the paint is actually metallic copper.  It was painted with fingernail polish and regular clear coat.


Processaurus

Quote from: rustypinto on October 25, 2009, 12:54:38 AM
The resistor color is blue (i suspect) because of the manufacturer, KOA-speer. These particular resistors are thick-film types, which they specifically recommend for audio.

I notice NO difference between through-hole and surface mount versions of this pedal. I've done extensive A/B comparisons, where the resistors in the through-hole case WERE metal film, and the differences were non-existent.

As for the caps, i used multi-layer ceramic, through-hole AND SMT for both versions. Again, no difference there.

Its an interesting debate that people think surface mount resistors impact tone, but they certainly don't. Resistors serve a very basic function; to resist electrical current. When doing this function, power dissipation becomes an important factor. Power dissipation and mounting style are what set these two resistor technologies apart. They're not frequency reactive devices by nature, and until they take on such responsibilities (where they would just become capacitors or inductors), then they will never affect tone. Its also important to mention PCB layout for completeness. Just about every SMT layout uses vias, which have a certain amount of inductance associated with them. Inductance is of course reactive to frequency, but it only becomes noticeable at very high frequencies associated with very high speed designs (memory buses, CPU buses, etc.).


Thanks for the notes, I'm in the middle of a surfacemount design, and it's neat to hear you personally checked the two types of construction together to have an informed opinion.  Especially since in a large design like that cumulative effects would be easier to hear.  Naturally there shouldn't be any difference in sound depending on the package, either resistors or IC's (since they are made from the same dies as the legged components).  

I had noticed Danelectro used surfacemount everything, except film caps, and I had gone the same way (though without a solid opinion on the sound of film caps vs SMT ceramics).

One more question, do you do your reflow soldering by keeping an eye on the toaster, or using one of those special toaster controllers (unless of course you have a real reflow oven?)?  I was thinking about doing the same thing, as I know a family that has a laser business who could make paste stencils.

pazuzu

Quote from: deaconque on October 25, 2009, 04:48:00 PM
Finished this one today.  Barber LTD Silver.  The picture doesn't really show it but the paint is actually metallic copper.  It was painted with fingernail polish and regular clear coat.



that sir is fantastic. do you 40k or just dig the art?

deaconque

thanks.  just thought it was a good design.  :icon_biggrin:

chi_boy

Quote from: pazuzu on October 25, 2009, 05:15:17 PM

that sir is fantastic. do you 40k or just dig the art?


Well you have me curious.  Do you 40k?  And if so, what is it.
"Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events, small minds discuss people." — Admiral Hyman G. Rickover - 1900-1986

The Leftover PCB Page

rustypinto

Quote from: Processaurus on October 25, 2009, 05:04:29 PM
Quote from: rustypinto on October 25, 2009, 12:54:38 AM
The resistor color is blue (i suspect) because of the manufacturer, KOA-speer. These particular resistors are thick-film types, which they specifically recommend for audio.

I notice NO difference between through-hole and surface mount versions of this pedal. I've done extensive A/B comparisons, where the resistors in the through-hole case WERE metal film, and the differences were non-existent.

As for the caps, i used multi-layer ceramic, through-hole AND SMT for both versions. Again, no difference there.

Its an interesting debate that people think surface mount resistors impact tone, but they certainly don't. Resistors serve a very basic function; to resist electrical current. When doing this function, power dissipation becomes an important factor. Power dissipation and mounting style are what set these two resistor technologies apart. They're not frequency reactive devices by nature, and until they take on such responsibilities (where they would just become capacitors or inductors), then they will never affect tone. Its also important to mention PCB layout for completeness. Just about every SMT layout uses vias, which have a certain amount of inductance associated with them. Inductance is of course reactive to frequency, but it only becomes noticeable at very high frequencies associated with very high speed designs (memory buses, CPU buses, etc.).


Thanks for the notes, I'm in the middle of a surfacemount design, and it's neat to hear you personally checked the two types of construction together to have an informed opinion.  Especially since in a large design like that cumulative effects would be easier to hear.  Naturally there shouldn't be any difference in sound depending on the package, either resistors or IC's (since they are made from the same dies as the legged components). 

I had noticed Danelectro used surfacemount everything, except film caps, and I had gone the same way (though without a solid opinion on the sound of film caps vs SMT ceramics).

One more question, do you do your reflow soldering by keeping an eye on the toaster, or using one of those special toaster controllers (unless of course you have a real reflow oven?)?  I was thinking about doing the same thing, as I know a family that has a laser business who could make paste stencils.

I have a reflow controller. You can't simply turn a stock oven temperature control and time it while keeping an eye on the temperature. That method is extremely error prone, and its very easy to burn your parts up. I recommend the Sparkfun controller. I'm already set-up for PIC microcontrollers, so it was really easy for me to get it working. There is also a lot of code available which has ready to use profiles.

A real reflow oven is next!
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pazuzu

#10868
Quote from: chi_boy on October 25, 2009, 07:37:08 PM
Quote from: pazuzu on October 25, 2009, 05:15:17 PM

that sir is fantastic. do you 40k or just dig the art?


Well you have me curious.  Do you 40k?  And if so, what is it.

yes.

http://www.games-workshop.com

mr.adambeck

Quote from: deaconque on October 25, 2009, 04:48:00 PM
Finished this one today.  Barber LTD Silver.  The picture doesn't really show it but the paint is actually metallic copper.  It was painted with fingernail polish and regular clear coat.



Is this a stencil, or did you trace it out?  It looks really pro!

mr.adambeck

Here's a few I've been meaning to post, I've just been painting them by hand with Testor's Enamel. 
I need to get some spray-on crystal clear, because the brush-on kind I have leaves visible brush strokes, which look especially prominent in these photos  :icon_redface:

SHO:


A "Fuzzy Elephant" bass fuzz I made for a friend, the lettering references her bands logo:



Germanium Fuzz Face:





Random Number Generator (this one's already getting some road wear!):


deaconque

Quote from: mr.adambeck on October 25, 2009, 08:12:10 PM
Quote from: deaconque on October 25, 2009, 04:48:00 PM
Finished this one today.  Barber LTD Silver.  The picture doesn't really show it but the paint is actually metallic copper.  It was painted with fingernail polish and regular clear coat.



Is this a stencil, or did you trace it out?  It looks really pro!

it's a stencil .  my new method of stenciling actually.  i print out the picture then lay a layer of clear packing tape on the front and back of the image.  then i cut it out with an exacto knife and stencil as usual.  the tape gives the stencil an extra layer of stability.  not sure if this is how others do it but i get decent results.

EARNEST

Dean Razorback V255 w/EMG 81/85 @18V -> Bugera 6262-212
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DIY projects:
TS clone, in progress http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=78871.0

mr.adambeck

Quote from: EARNEST on October 26, 2009, 07:40:05 AM
http://michaelbeck.com/adam/pedalpics/w_ff05.jpg
Is that a pyramid? :)
Yeah, kinda...  I've been into a lot of Egyptian imagery recently (They are showing an exhibit of King Tut ephemera at a museum in SF right now).  It's not really meant to be a pyramid per se, but I've noticed a lot more triangles showing up in things I've been making.

Auke Haarsma

Quote from: kabi on October 20, 2009, 06:21:31 PM
my 3rd build finished, at last  ;)


Lonely Star, the adaptation of the Mesa Boogie Lone Star amp:





A million thanks to Mr. Auke Haarsma for creating and sharing this excellent project, as well as helping me through the process. More people should try this pedal, it sounds great. Here is the respective thread by the way:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=76873.0\

I'll try to record some samples and post a build report as soon as possible

WOW! it looks awesome! I really like the Red, White, Black colours. Classy! And you posted it on my birthday ha! What I nice present ;)

aziltz

Quote from: deaconque on October 25, 2009, 11:12:38 PM

it's a stencil .  my new method of stenciling actually.  i print out the picture then lay a layer of clear packing tape on the front and back of the image.  then i cut it out with an exacto knife and stencil as usual.  the tape gives the stencil an extra layer of stability.  not sure if this is how others do it but i get decent results.

Sprayed or with a brush?  Looks great!

deaconque

thanks.  sprayed.  it's hard not to get overspray since the stencil never really lays completely flat, it works in a pinch though.

aziltz

Quote from: deaconque on October 26, 2009, 10:08:10 PM
thanks.  sprayed.  it's hard not to get overspray since the stencil never really lays completely flat, it works in a pinch though.

thanks for that.  i've been looking for a way to try to get pseudo silk screen at home.

deaconque

Quote from: aziltz on October 26, 2009, 10:11:09 PM
Quote from: deaconque on October 26, 2009, 10:08:10 PM
thanks.  sprayed.  it's hard not to get overspray since the stencil never really lays completely flat, it works in a pinch though.

thanks for that.  i've been looking for a way to try to get pseudo silk screen at home.

you might want to look into PhotoEZ.  a good way to silkscreen at home

darron

#10879
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!