Pictures!

[diemilchmann]

i love the knobs man!!

[Bad Chizzle]

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz103/AS74/Pedals/P1010027.jpg?t=1279511693
Hey, AS74
Great stuff! May I ask what kind of enclosures you used on some if your builds?

[studiostud]

Hey Slade,  someone may have asked this already,  but can you please share your techniques for doing the gradient "sunburst" style coloring?  I've read your multi-color etching tutorial several times, but it doesn't cover a whole lot of color blending techniques...

[Magnus]

Hello,

I see you have the jcm 800 layout done up. I just finished that one and had the worst luck with it. Did it twice and still got the same results. It never wanted to biase. Hope you have better luck than I did. Let me know how it turns out.

Yes, I will do that 
But I don't know when it will be finished, seems like it will take much time
because of the other pedals that are going to be build before...
And I will move to another city this week - will be much trouble and time-eating 


Greetings
Magnus

[AS74]

i love the knobs man!!

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz103/AS74/Pedals/P1010027.jpg?t=1279511693
Hey, AS74
Great stuff! May I ask what kind of enclosures you used on some if your builds?

Knobs on the Burning Crunch are from an old stereo i got from my Nan..

The six enclosures at the front of the board are DIY,  metal from the back of old gas heaters
found on the verge rubbish.  Cut and bent using hand tools..  Ruff 'n' Ready but functional..
Good enough for Rock 'n' Roll 

[Maudibe]

Here's my latest offering... mind after seeing some I'm in awe...

Still need to add decals / labels...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/doctortweek/4808856650/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/doctortweek/4808245167/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/doctortweek/4808874860/


needless to say, all parts available from yours truly  

[Slade]

Hey Slade,  someone may have asked this already,  but can you please share your techniques for doing the gradient "sunburst" style coloring?  I've read your multi-color etching tutorial several times, but it doesn't cover a whole lot of color blending techniques...

Sorry, but no special techniques, my friend, just some spray cans and practice with different distances to the enclosure...
But, once again, it's all practice

@Maudibe: That "ohmygod" pedal looks great inside and out

[studiostud]

Here's my latest offering... mind after seeing some I'm in awe...

Still need to add decals / labels...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/doctortweek/4808856650/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/doctortweek/4808245167/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/doctortweek/4808874860/


needless to say, all parts available from yours truly  

Sweet build, man.  Diggin those knobs!  Where'd they come from?  I also like the gut shot.  I did the same thing with the modular header pieces on a bigger multi-effects unit that I built awhile ago.  Makes it really easy to take the circuit out and tweak.  What I would do to take it a step further (if you haven't already) is create a tweaking/testing device that uses the same headers so all you have to do is disconnect the circuit from your pedal and connect it right to the tester. 

For my stuff, I built a little breadboard unit that is basically the beavis board... http://www.beavisaudio.com/bboard/

Here's mine:


and then I also built a separate tweaking unit that has 4 sections of tweaks. 

1) resistance - I have two rows of pots, linear and audio, with values of 1k, 10k, 100k, 500k, 1M.  Each row is wired in series which allows me to get any resistance value.

2) capacitance - Since variable caps are a little harder to come by, I had to use fixed value caps with rotary switches.  So I have (4) 12-way rotary switches and (1) 4-way rotary.  Each 12-way has a different set of caps (electro, ceramic, 2 sets of poly film since there were a lot more values to choose from).  Then each position on the 4-way goes to a different switch.

3) transistors - This is simply a 3PDT switch with each side wired to a 3-pin transistor socket and the center wired to hookup wires.  This gives me the ability to A/B test trannys which is especially useful in fuzz/distortion pedals.

4) diodes - I have (2) 10-pin DIP switches soldered to a small piece of perf board and each pin is connected to a different diode.  The 2 DIP switches have matching sets of diodes so I can test with two of the same.  This is great for testing different diodes in overdrive/distortion circuits that use a diode clipping stage.  One cool thing that I did with is was I built a tube screamer for a buddy and I used the diode test to find the 4-best sounding pairs and then hooked them to a 4P2T rotary switch to make a "clipping color" switch. 

Each section of testing has an "in/out" using solid core hookup wire so I can attach it directly to the breadboard on my other unit.  I'll try and post some pics of it later.

[studiostud]

Hey Slade,  someone may have asked this already,  but can you please share your techniques for doing the gradient "sunburst" style coloring?  I've read your multi-color etching tutorial several times, but it doesn't cover a whole lot of color blending techniques...

Sorry, but no special techniques, my friend, just some spray cans and practice with different distances to the enclosure...
But, once again, it's all practice

@Maudibe: That "ohmygod" pedal looks great inside and out

That's sort of what I figured.  I could sort of understand the concept when I was doing the enclosure for my Crunchy Creme with the "ice cream" paint job and experiment with using spray distance as a design tool.  I guess next up is experience..... 

[ShortScaleMike]

Another one:

Had to float the OCD board to fit it in, it's secured to the lid.

[jkokura]

Great work Mike! I'm curious - how does it sound with the TS into the OCD? I haven't built my OCD yet, so I'm wondering if they sound better before or after a tubescreamer.

It looks really, really good though. I love the design.

Jacob

[JKowalski]

Finally got around to remaking the "stompbox base unit", with two modules: a BMP and a Rebote Delay. Also finally found a use for the handful of SMD parts I have lying around.



Fixed all the problems I had in the prototype.

[frequencycentral]

^^^

That's awesomeness right there. Inspirational work Chris.  

[Brymus]

Yeah Chris those look really tight !

[Bad Chizzle]

Pimp!

[deadastronaut]

class 'A'.........very tidy chris...nice...........

so that small pcb is your jacks/dc/led, and a 6 pole dpt with millenium bypass yes?...

[prnet]

Here's my modded cs2 boss. true bypass, buffer removed, and some NP caps..
I posted here the pics:
www.thepiper.eu/?page_id=206
@admin:  sorry, maybe I'm not authorized to upload pics from here. you could delete the link for me if I'm not allowed to post external links..

[JKowalski]

Thanks a lot guys, I hope this will prove as useful as I think it will. Now that I have the overall design finalized I can port experimental/eccentric/rarely used circuits without too much hassle.

I think I will put together a large enclosure for these sometime, with spots for maybe 5-6 of them in a row (it'll also give me a place to put some of them that I am "storing", I guess)

Here's my modded cs2 boss. true bypass, buffer removed, and some NP caps..
I posted here the pics:
www.thepiper.eu/?page_id=206
@admin:  sorry, maybe I'm not authorized to upload pics from here. you could delete the link for me if I'm not allowed to post external links..

Wow, I really love the design on that one!

class 'A'.........very tidy chris...nice...........

so that small pcb is your jacks/dc/led, and a 6 pole dpt with millenium bypass yes?...

The small PCB has a buffered op amp Vref, a millenium bypass (two pole DT but I know you meant pins  ), a five volt regulator, and a protection diode.

The header connector carries these in order:

OUTPUT, INPUT, GND, Vref, 9V+, N/A, TAP IN/OUT (Not included on this one right now though I can refit it for it if I find I want it later), and 5V+.

[jkokura]

Brilliant Chris. Just Brilliant.

Jacob

[Zero]

Excellent work, Chris!
Special kudos for getting this done in such a small box. Must have take very careful PCB design.

The next step is to make your effects "Nintendo cartridge"-style 
Or have several effect PCBs in an external box and connect them to the base unit using a ribbon cable, while switching between them with a nice relay system. Ok, I'm taking it a bit too far..