Pictures!

[fatfoohy]

here's the gut shot, kinda sloppy, but it works
@deadastronaut: i have been debating whether or not to do a graphic, if i do anything, it will be only black on top of the metal

[DVasil]

iWi Gainbox Distortion
http://www.youtube.com/user/dvasiltube#g/c/6F9F7570E24F8FC7



Nu, POGODI!
http://www.youtube.com/user/dvasiltube#g/c/E083E93DF5B930C3

[deadastronaut]

Спасибо

[liquids]

I haven't been building at all lately.  Was doing no electronics, than got the amp bug recently.  But I unearthed some photos I took a while back.

This one is blurry, but it's perfboard.  I was a strip board guy, but got into designing complex circuits, and needed to learn perfboards as space was an issue.  It still is (often using multiple boards), but it helps.  Anyhow, I'm no Rick (frequencycentral), but I finally like how mine look.  Takes me a lot of time (a bit obsessive) to create a full layout (props to ~arph for stripmagic!), and write up details on how to wire it so it looks like this, but it's worth it to me in the end.  Easy to repair since it's all documented and plainly laid out - from my inevitable errors and debugging phase.

This one wasn't wired, so at the top are the ugly unsoldered leads waiting to attach to wires for pots.  I do this mostly with short component leads and solid 28AWG wire that is usually listed as wire wrap wire, though originally it's insulated.  It's like needle and thread - the bus wire that smallbear sells, and even component wire is not easy to make look good, in my opinion.

If anyone wants details on how I do this (other than much practice and failure) let me know.


(Edit: Forgot the photo!)

[Pigyboy]

I haven't been building at all lately.  Was doing no electronics, than got the amp bug recently.  But I unearthed some photos I took a while back.

This one is blurry, but it's perfboard.  I was a strip board guy, but got into designing complex circuits, and needed to learn perfboards as space was an issue.  It still is (often using multiple boards), but it helps.  Anyhow, I'm no Rick (frequencycentral), but I finally like how mine look.  Takes me a lot of time (a bit obsessive) to create a full layout (props to ~arph for stripmagic!), and write up details on how to wire it so it looks like this, but it's worth it to me in the end.  Easy to repair since it's all documented and plainly laid out - from my inevitable errors and debugging phase.

This one wasn't wired, so at the top are the ugly unsoldered leads waiting to attach to wires for pots.  I do this mostly with short component leads and solid 28AWG wire that is usually listed as wire wrap wire, though originally it's insulated.  It's like needle and thread - the bus wire that smallbear sells, and even component wire is not easy to make look good, in my opinion.

If anyone wants details on how I do this (other than much practice and failure) let me know.


(Edit: Forgot the photo!)

Hi Liquids,
Would love to have a lesson on how you make these. Looks....obsessively beautiful.

[phector2004]

+1

My bending leads tightly + masking tape + haemostat method can never give me results like that  

you don't melt lines of solder directly to the board, do you?

EDIT: do you also yank out the unused perfboard pads?

[liquids]

Okay, it's complicated, but I'll start small with specifics.

I do drill out the unused perf bits. Its and added step, but it's why I abandoned perfboard in the first place - too much component misplacement.  It carried over from stripboard, where it's all but a necessity.  I did the same with that - only left strip where it was needed. Less places for short circuits, and it's clearer when you are done or not.  More so, it reduces the amount of 'wrong' places I can put a component, for one; it helps me 'count' the board, and overall helps me see the board better on both sides.

I don't melt lines of solder.  I use solid 28awg (wire wrap wire), which is like hair.  I can thread it along the board, and it can easily fit in the same holes as another component lead.  I use it with some tension to 'weave' between holes, and make traces where applicable, which keeps it directly over the perf pads. Then I solder it to the perf pads. It keeps the 'bus' wires straighter and in the lines and the solder is for stability and continuity, or just the visual if you prefer.  

I can run this wire from the traces side, through a hole and on the top side, over other holes in one direction (or more) to another location on the board and back to the trace side,, while another trace or components are running under it in another direction. But that takes a lot of color coding on a 2d layout, to make it clear once I'm putting it in solder.  A lot of it has to do with that 28awg wire.

[jkokura]

I think the Perf robot has some competition!










page 700.

Jacob

[frequencycentral]

.......anyhow, I'm no Rick (frequencycentral).......

Respect! I doff my crown to you sir, that looks really clean and as good as it gets.

[liquids]

No way...for one I'd never have tried if I hadn't seen you do it...for two, no matter what yours will always look better and shiny from your silver solder.  Rick is is the R.G. of perfboard!   

[JKowalski]

"Joshua Tree Fuzz" - Boring name but it's tentatively titled.  I'm going to etch the bottom with the name, my name, instructions etc. when I decide on the final name. It's a present for my brother's birthday.

Kind of a medley of the Fender Blender and the Mosrite Fuzzrite with some screwing around as far as signal paths and components. He wanted a real 60's vintage fuzz tone that can get super buzzy, trebly, or just wacked out. The fender blender sections take care of most of the wacked out sound and tonal control while the fuzzrite kicks in an extra buzz boost when needed.





What an honor to post on page 700 

[jasonsmusicgear]

Here's my multieffect pedal, it took me about a year of weekend work.  I can plug both my electric and acoustic in and switch between the two so it's perfect for use at church.  The acoustic is only routed to the tuner, no effects.  There's no noise issues except for some small footswitch pops.  I got the enclosure from my dad's office when lightning hit the phone system.

[rousejeremy]

^ may I be the first to say... HELL YES!!

[noelgrassy]

would've been sweet if the LED was jesus' third eye... 

It gets too creepy in low light. Jeebuz' hair makes like a hood so it gets this glowing Darth Vader
aroma that now makes his hand gestures look more like thowin' gang signs. His father would be
less than proud.

Just my $0.02 as I installed one in a dashboard Jeebuz figurine that I hooked to the turn signals.

Noel Grassy.

[Ripdivot]

Holy Shit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great job. Is it possible to sub in different effects in the future or are they all on the one PCB?

[BRingoC]

Liquids, I'm in awe.  Did you drill out the perf holes?  It looks like there are pits where it would be flat. Nice neat perf.

[a soBer Newt]

Fuzzy Factory by asobernewt, on Flickr

[jkokura]

Dude, That massive pedal board!! That has to be one of the most well thought out massive projects I've ever seen! I'm very, very impressed. I like it a lot, especially how you worked in the Commercial Tuner, and had all the different pedals with a common kind of Graphic layout. The knobs are all protected, and I'm amazed at it.

Could you give us a little bit more details about the lead loop and the tap tempo? What does the tap tempo control? What delay circuit are you using?

Also, I think with a little work I think you could really neaten up your wiring. Zip tie mounts really, really help with this. They're little adhesive backed thingys you can attach a zip tie to so it won't move. Really helped me with routing on my pedal board. The reason I think it would be worth doing is if you ever ran into a problem, things would be hard to debug I think. And with all that loose wire, who knows what could break, or come loose, or... It's different with crazy wiring in a small pedal, but with that big thing! Wow, what a job!

Kudos and hats off Jason.

Jacob

[Galego]

Fuzzy Factory by asobernewt, on Flickr

What are the components mounted on? That doesn't look like a regular circuit board...

[liquids]

Liquids, I'm in awe.  Did you drill out the perf holes?  It looks like there are pits where it would be flat. Nice neat perf.

Thanks!  I honestly didn't think it was half as good as you guys are claiming it is!  I Just thought it was 'progress' from some of my previous, embarrassing perfwork and was proud of that alone.    I'm all embarassed...

Yeah, I drill it out, so there are 'pits.'  I have the drill out for the standoff holes (which was not exactly aligned here, so it's not so flattering) and that was my preffered way with stripboard...I was concerned it would compromise the board, but I do it as gently as possible.  I'd prefer a dedicated tool for it, but I'm usually cheap - too cheap to buy a tool I'm not sure I'll like, most of the time.    Maybe someday...  Note that some of the pads are lifted just via soldering tip...that works fine though more tedious to me to do dozens like that.  But sometimes I leave options for myself on the board, and then pick one when I'm soldering it up and get rid of the spare pad via heat....or in other cases, I leave a pad 'open' for a later potential mod (or 'insurance' design for a different op amp, etc).

Most perf pads aren't in there very well anyway, so only a little, gentle drilling works to ream them.  My drill is trigger sensitive for speed - slow and gentle is best here.  A one speed drill would dill it right through in short time, don't try that if you don't have to.

Note that trying to do this style worked HORRIBLY with 2 sided perf, because the solder flows to the component side and everything gets all screwy....sadly.  I got some as an error and went with it, happily...only to realize it was futile.