Pictures!

[mattthegamer463]

Modified my Tonepad Phase 90 to be a little more versatile, with the Phase 180 mods floating around the nets.  Knobs are Width, Speed and Mix, and Block/Script switch.  Kind of poor placement since I was working around the original build, but it came out alright.

[jkokura]

New Klon build!



Jacob

[Perrow]

That'll need some precision stomping for sure 

[G. Hoffman]

Its not working yet, but its a Fuzz Factory, more or less.  I'm thinking of trying to get the copper on the fact plate to go green, and then black out the etched lines.  I'm not sure if it will work, but its not like I can't make another face plate easily enough!

If anyone want to know, the pots are from Mouser, and I made the knobs myself, though Allparts sells some that would do - but mine are a bit better made.


Gabriel

[deadastronaut]

very cool...

love the pots...do you have to put your own 3mm led in them then!..and a resistor..?

can we have a gut shot of your pots?...just a peek...cheers rob.

[eniacmike]

madbean's zombii 5 knob germanium fuzz.

[G. Hoffman]

very cool...

love the pots...do you have to put your own 3mm led in them then!..and a resistor..?

can we have a gut shot of your pots?...just a peek...cheers rob.

Yes, you need to provide your own T-1 sized LED, and they of course need a resistor.  The guys aren't much to look at, at the moment, since its still on the bench getting tested/fixed.

But I've been wanting to do something with those pots since I first saw them in the Mouser Catalog.  Which, come to think of it, is the advantage to paper; you never know what you are going to find as you turn the pages.  If I KNOW what I want, I can find it much faster on-line, but I'll never find any surprises!


Gabriel

[Pigyboy]

The only Mouser surprises I get on-line is when I get my package and find what I ordered is not what I thought is was

[nocentelli]

@eniacmike - Great looking build, as always:

Where are those little knobs from? I usually go for chickenheads or tonebender/Marshall amp style knobs, but I need a dozen or more smaller diameter knobs for some 5/6 control pedals I'm working on.

[azrael]

^You can find them at smallbearelec.com.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

I really like this new (Is it new?) trend of using etched copper board as a faceplate for enclosures. This way you can get a lot of detail without all of the prep hassle of trying to etch the aluminum itself. This however, comes at the cost of a PCB board used merely for a faceplate 

I guess to someone like me who has had A LOT of problems with etching enclosures, it may be worth it 

[eniacmike]

@eniacmike - Great looking build, as always:

Where are those little knobs from? I usually go for chickenheads or tonebender/Marshall amp style knobs, but I need a dozen or more smaller diameter knobs for some 5/6 control pedals I'm working on.

I bought these ABS davies 1900H clones from mammoth electronics. $.52 each when you buy more than 10. I have also bought them from smallbear they carry the phenolic and the ABS versions.  

[G. Hoffman]

I really like this new (Is it new?) trend of using etched copper board as a faceplate for enclosures. This way you can get a lot of detail without all of the prep hassle of trying to etch the aluminum itself. This however, comes at the cost of a PCB board used merely for a faceplate 

I guess to someone like me who has had A LOT of problems with etching enclosures, it may be worth it 

Well, I just switched to a UV exposure method of making PCBs, and I can't think of a good way to do that on an aluminum enclosure, or I'd probably have done that.  I've seen a few liquid resists, but they all seem to want to be baked, and since I don't have my own oven....


Gabriel

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Is there any way we can get a gut shot of this creation? 

[G. Hoffman]

Is there any way we can get a gut shot of this creation? 

Maybe when it is working.  Right now, it does all the normal Fuzz Factory squealing, but the guitar signal never gets through.  I THINK the problem is with the BJT buffer at the front end, but I'm not sure yet.  It worked on the bread board, so I must have gotten something wrong on the PCB, so now I have to figure out where I went wrong!


Gabriel

[Ronsonic]

I've not posted any pic's so let's fix that:



Here's a 98% complete gut shot:

[John Lyons]

(Respectfully)
Take the other 2% and ditch the nylon washer Ron.
A thin metal washer and your pedal will look 100%. 

[mikemaddux]

I've not posted any pic's so let's fix that:



Here's a 98% complete gut shot:

Looks great!  I love it!

[eniacmike]

dr. boogie. I skipped the shielded wires this time and I don't notice any noise or oscillation.
madbean's chunk chunk board. black pcb and orange hi-temp xicon caps for extra halloween mojo.
I accidentally ordered (way too many) 2n2 ceramic disc caps from mouser so I got these GIANT 220pF caps from a grab bag at radio shack.

I tried a new layout inspired by the barber tone press I just got. I really like the room you get with the jacks down lower on a 1590BB. If you ever want to see really nice guts look at a barber pedal.

Paint is TESTORS one coat lacquer diamond dust. really cool looking paint and it really does go on in one coat. Highly recommend it, they have a bunch of cool colors too.

[glops]

I agree with you 100%.  surface prep for etching is always the most time consuming process.  lots of wetsanding with multiple grits is nice to do because I like to work but sometimes you just want to etch it NOW.  I like the process but don't usually feel mtivated for the daunting task. I think I'll try the copper clad method.  easier mask transfer method and it looks great from the results payed here.

I really like this new (Is it new?) trend of using etched copper board as a faceplate for enclosures. This way you can get a lot of detail without all of the prep hassle of trying to etch the aluminum itself. This however, comes at the cost of a PCB board used merely for a faceplate 

I guess to someone like me who has had A LOT of problems with etching enclosures, it may be worth it