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Started by Hal, August 23, 2005, 01:58:47 PM

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Liquitone

Quote from: kungpow79 on May 16, 2011, 08:16:15 PM
How do you stamp it?  What do you use?  Love that aesthetic...



I used a so called Letter and Number Stamp Set. I bought it from Newtone in Holland for about 10 bucks, they look like these;

http://www.amazon.com/Letter-Number-Die-Stamp-Punch/dp/B0006IY52U/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

I just punched the letters in using a hammer and a block of wood underneath to prevent the enclosure from bending in.
I did these without guidlines and it turned out better than when I did use them, just start with the letter in the middle and work your way towards the start and end, I did a bit of practicing first on a bottom-plate of an enclosure.

mathewglenn

Quote from: deadastronaut on May 17, 2011, 04:21:35 AM
Quote from: mathewglenn on May 16, 2011, 04:33:19 PM
I finally bought a 2x6 steel stud so that I could start boxing up the big effects that I've been working on. Here is part 1:




From right to left: DOD250, BSIAB2, Devi Ever based fuzz, Thing Modulator, and Snow White Auto Wah.

No knobs yet, but I'm thinking of getting these:


ok, i'll ask!....why toggle switches?...

and did you try to etch galvanised steel?.... :icon_wink:

Toggle switches because I play the trumpet, and as a trumpet player I am able to play one-handed, leaving the other hand free to tweak the controls as I play. Because of this, I keep most of my effects on a stand where it's easily within reach. Toggle switches are easier to switch by hand and a lot cheaper.

And galvanized steel because...well...um...I didn't know any better. :icon_redface: The etch came out shallow and pitted, but it kinda goes with the distorted fonts that I chose, so I'm okay with it.

deadastronaut

ahhhh i see!...happy trumpetting... :icon_wink:
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

Slade

#16323
Some days not visiting and we have lots of awesome builds again, that's so cool, congrats m8s!

One from me: Maxon OD-808 Clone.



Sounds LIKE THIS.

Cheers!
Fernando.-

frequencycentral

^^^^

Fernando is STILL the king of the reverse etch! <3 <3 <3
http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

Questo è il fiore del partigiano morto per la libertà!

rustypinto

#16325
Another one for the tiny DMM clones...





Guts...



BTW, BBD's are counterfeit MN3008's
  • SUPPORTER

John Lyons

Wow! That's nice. Good job on that.  :icon_biggrin:
Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

Seven64

Man, i feel super ghetto but still wanna post anyways.

I really need to quit ordering parts and start ordering enclosures :(



From top left across:

Zombie Chorus Vero, Noise Ensemble Vero, SRV TS-808 Vero, Unfininished SRV TS-808 Vero, Boss Slow Gear Vero

Bottom Row

Magnus Modulus, Magnus Modulus, Boss Slow Gear

I made the vero slow gear, because I cannot get the trimpots I ordered to fit in the PCB correctly.

I think I found the problem with my Vero Slow gear, and am in the process of putting it in an enclosure here shortly.

The only pedal I have actually put in an enclosure:



Vero of the Little Angel Chorus

Guts, the wiring on the Slow gear should be a little prettier :)



I have an enclosure for the slow gear, and my buddy who I built one of the Magnus's for has the enclosure for that and is in the process of drilling and painting before we decide on a font for the silkscreen.... I'm really excited to get that one done!!!


caress


I like Grunge

Quote from: Seven64 on May 19, 2011, 03:42:03 AM
Man, i feel super ghetto but still wanna post anyways.

I really need to quit ordering parts and start ordering enclosures :(

From top left across:

Zombie Chorus Vero, Noise Ensemble Vero, SRV TS-808 Vero, Unfininished SRV TS-808 Vero, Boss Slow Gear Vero

Bottom Row

Magnus Modulus, Magnus Modulus, Boss Slow Gear

I made the vero slow gear, because I cannot get the trimpots I ordered to fit in the PCB correctly.

I think I found the problem with my Vero Slow gear, and am in the process of putting it in an enclosure here shortly.

The only pedal I have actually put in an enclosure:

Vero of the Little Angel Chorus

Guts, the wiring on the Slow gear should be a little prettier :)

I have an enclosure for the slow gear, and my buddy who I built one of the Magnus's for has the enclosure for that and is in the process of drilling and painting before we decide on a font for the silkscreen.... I'm really excited to get that one done!!!



Could you post the vero layout of the slow gear, please?

kupfer_m

Quote from: Liquitone on May 15, 2011, 12:58:07 PM
Been quite a while,. I have been busy designing layouts while waiting 2 months for the blue fiberboard  and the enclosure to arrive in the mail...
been using different board and pins now,.
these pins stay in the holes without the need of solder so its more solid now.

Its a EHX worm clone without the phaser, wah and tremelo parts.




What kind of pins did you use?

Valoosj

#16331



At first I wanted it to say Miss Piggy's muff, but alas ...


One of the mods I did is to make the first diode pair switchable. I read that by removing them, the bass would be tighter.
Should I then just disconnect one side (and thus removing C5 as well) or bypass them without leaving C5 disconnected?
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

fluoreszenz

Quote from: Valoosj on May 19, 2011, 04:01:33 PM



At first I wanted it to say Miss Piggy's muff, but alas ...


One of the mods I did is to make the first diode pair switchable. I read that by removing them, the bass would be tighter.
Should I then just disconnect one side (and thus removing C5 as well) or bypass them without leaving C5 disconnected?

Sick color  ;D

According to http://rkerkhof.ruhosting.nl/Taas/Mods/Big%20Muff.htm removal of the first diodes will do the trick:

"No diodes; great trick! By removing the diodes from the unit no sound if fed back. Result: more volume (LOUD!), less compression, less gain and a more open (overdrive) sound. By removing only the first two diodes (of the first stage) the bass response of the unit will become much greater when Sustain increases (great for bass players!). This trick is also done to the Colorsound Supa Tonebender, which is basically a Muff with the first diodes removed."

I've built a BM for a bass playing friend, he digs the "tonebender" mods  :icon_cool:

Valoosj

That's where I got the info from, but if you look at the schematic, there is a cap in series with those diodes. Do you have to leave this connected, and thus put a jumper instead of the diodes or not?
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

Valoosj

Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

G. Hoffman

Quote from: Valoosj on May 19, 2011, 04:01:33 PM


Do those knobs really match the box that well, or is it a trick of the light/camera?



Gabriel

puretube

#16336
5 pre- WORMs in one pic... :


...

BigBox-3-knob:


SmallBox-3-knob:


Smallbox-8-stage-expansioned:


Envelope-Followed:


14-stage-expansion:

(with 28-stage-option for Bi-Worming...)

...


The Original SmallBox-5-knob :




and the Pure Tube version ... :

with expression-pedal input...

aka:


Valoosj

Quote from: G. Hoffman on May 19, 2011, 06:10:46 PM
Quote from: Valoosj on May 19, 2011, 04:01:33 PM


Do those knobs really match the box that well, or is it a trick of the light/camera?



Gabriel

I painted them the same colour as the box.

Any thoughts on the diodes?
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

azrael

Valoosj, do not reconnect the diode, it's just gonna parallel with the treble rolloff cap and make it sound way too warm. Just leave it disconnected.

It doesn't tighten bass, IMO, but it does increase it a lot because that cap dictates how much bass is blocked from being clipped by the diodes. Without it, a lot more bass will bass through and be amplified.

Valoosj

The diodes are now switchable, but the cap is so too. So this should stay that way then?
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!