Pictures!

[davent]

Huh. Those never seem to work for me. Either I get air bubbles, or the adhesive gets cloudy, or both. What's your secret?

Patience!
As Mike said, let the print dry. So is very important that the painting job is good enough, let's say....dry for 3 days.
When you don't get  finger prints in the surface it's ok to put the decal.

how do you get the edge of the decal not to show up, i can't seem to figure it out

Many thin coats of clear and wet sanding until everything is level.


dave

[jameslost]

First post from me here. Long time lurker though.
Heres my first pedal, SHO clone, colour went all cream after i baked the clear coat. Quite like the effect though. My mate paints them for me, but i smudged some parts of it with my fingers accidentally...



It did look like this:



Second one is a tubescreamer clone, the Nintendo Screamboy. Still havent got the clear coating down though yet.

[Sirppi]

That's just awesome! 

[buildafriend]

That's just awesome! 

agreed that is really cool

[Perrow]

That's the secret with most decals. If you want to hide the edges, cut right up against your image or border. That's how I do waterslides. I'll put a border all the way around, and then cut my decal out right along the border. Make them appear seamless.

I've never used waterslides (or most other methods) but it feels like waterslide edges could be sanded. Just a little fine grade paper on the edge before the clearcoat and the edged would be invisible, just make sure that the waterslide goes out to the box edge so you can round it off in line with the box edge without doing too much damage to the paint below.

... or is Davents method the only way?

[Pigyboy]

I found that vinegar wiped on the edges of the slide on decals will melt the edge and form it to the box.  I think there is actually a product for this specific purpose but vinegar works for sure

[Frances Rhodes]

hi everyone

here is my very first kit, the GGG maestro bass brassmaster clone, and 4th pedal build (eventhought the 3rd still doesn't make any sound...)

i tried to sand the enclosure but was too damn impatient so this is the furthest i could go (which was pretty hard to get since none of the sides were flat, but curved towards the inside... next time i won't buy the cheapest enclosure i find!)

-
i thought it would be a good idea to do like this... it turned out that there are so many wires inside that it's hard to close the enclosure! think i'll try something different next time!



i still haven't figured how to decorate the enclosure... and the ink i use doesn't stick, i have to get this worked through. hopefully i'll be able to etch enclosures soon...
-

cheers

[Govmnt_Lacky]

You are putting serial numbers on your GGG kit builds?

[robmdall]

I found that vinegar wiped on the edges of the slide on decals will melt the edge and form it to the box.  I think there is actually a product for this specific purpose but vinegar works for sure

Chris, are you using Ink Jet Water slides and sealing them after printing? I find if I seal them, the Vinegar has no affect on the edges. Also, are you applying the vinegar while it is still wet, newly applied?

Thanks

[Frances Rhodes]

You are putting serial numbers on your GGG kit builds?

haha just this one (since it's the only one i built). it's rather symbolic since i'm not selling anything

[phector2004]

You sure you wanna be using a center-negative power supply? 

[Frances Rhodes]

You sure you wanna be using a center-negative power supply? 

i'm not sure i understand the question... center-negative power supplies are the most common type, like Boss, Ibanez, One-Spot, etc. is it the type or the way i call it that seems wrong?

[phector2004]

my bad! 
Still half asleep lol

[Frances Rhodes]

my bad! 
Still half asleep lol

haha no probs, but you scared me a little for a minute!!

[rockhorst]

Massive summer pedal craze post! All enclosures from PPP, except Zeppelin drive.

Family Photo


Modded Screamer
Newtone PCB. Old RFX logo (MXR spoof). Actually finished this some time around last April, but hadn't posted it yet Surprised by the amount of gain that's on tap. Plenty enough for metal stuff. 5K trimpot inside for tone control.


AMZ voltage doubler
9V in with 2x 18V out...new 'brand' name


AMZ Mini Booster
With push/pull pot to switch the bypass capacitor (more/less gain). All jacks (in, out and DC) on top (same with all the pedals below).


MXR Distortion +
Newtone PCB...had it lying around, so might as well finish it. Not too impressed with it.


ZVEX SHO
Madbean PCB


Mosfet Booster
MadBean PCB...95% of the SHO sound without the crackle:nice!


Zendrive clone
MadBean PCB, standard values, nice versatile drive


Zeppeling drive
My favorite, buildwise: etched the PCB myself, based on MadBean Grapevine. This is only one side of it though (I believe the Rawk side, not sure though). Drilled and sanded the enclosure as well, testing a new drill template for a next batch of pedals. Goes very well with the power up at 18V! Not a lot of gain (least of the pedals in this post actually), to my surprise, but very nice transparent OD.


Gut shot
Zen (left) and Mosfet guts (sorry for the fuzziness).

[Pigyboy]

I found that vinegar wiped on the edges of the slide on decals will melt the edge and form it to the box.  I think there is actually a product for this specific purpose but vinegar works for sure

Chris, are you using Ink Jet Water slides and sealing them after printing? I find if I seal them, the Vinegar has no affect on the edges. Also, are you applying the vinegar while it is still wet, newly applied?

Thanks

I don't use them but I tried once with the vinegar after I read this post

'You can also buy decal setting solutions, the ones I've tried smell very acetic aciddy so I'm probably purchasing very premium priced vinegar in little plastic bottles. To eliminate the edges is just a matter of time and patience. Apply the decal to an absolutely smooth surface as mentioned earlier. Over the next 24 hours or so keep brushing on the decal set along the decal edges, this seems to help soften the edge a bit.  Once the decal is thoroughly dry start clearcoating. I use laquer so the first couple coats applied about an hour apart are light mist coats. Wait Another hour start laying on wet coats, I'll put on 6-7 coats with at least an hour between then start sanding it off using wet 800 grit. The low spots in your finish will be shiny the high finish areas will be dull after sanding. Be careful not to sand through into your decal. Now you need to spray more clearcoats, maybe four, then sand again. Just keep spraying and sanding and you will get the edges to disappear into the finish. Lots of clearcoat and lots of sanding back will get you invisble edges.'

Hope this helps but you might try Frequency Central OHP film method

I can't find Rick's link but here is another

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88271.0

good luck

[Slade]

Here a Fuzz Factory clone with tone control (just a pot and cap after volume control).

The design was though as with GNI style (THIS ONE exactly), not an original design...

Anyway, here it is... BAT MACUMBA!!!





Cheers,
Fernando.-

[theundeadelvis]

I've never used waterslides (or most other methods) but it feels like waterslide edges could be sanded. Just a little fine grade paper on the edge before the clearcoat and the edged would be invisible, just make sure that the waterslide goes out to the box edge so you can round it off in line with the box edge without doing too much damage to the paint below.

... or is Davents method the only way?

No, you could probably do it your way too. I'm all about simple, so that's why I like the border method. The one issue you may run into with sanding is, if you do have any artwork that runs to the edge, you're probably going to sand away the toner/ink too.

[darron]

You sure you wanna be using a center-negative power supply?  

i'm not sure i understand the question... center-negative power supplies are the most common type, like Boss, Ibanez, One-Spot, etc. is it the type or the way i call it that seems wrong?

you have me re-thinking. sounds right? i think maybe people say positive tip, but same thing.

edit: and if the centre was positive then we wouldn't have to use plastic insulated/isolated DC sockets. so centre negative sounds right

[arawn]

when I have a say I wire my stuff to be center positive