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bean · April 12, 2012, 06:13:01 PM

A new overdrive I'm calling the "Sparkplug"

jolly1423 · April 12, 2012, 06:38:12 PM

Quotei have been using the blue painters tape and BOY is it tough to get a well defined "clean" straight line !!!

any tips on this , now that i am almost finished with it ?

Try the green painters tape. It's thinner than the blue and designed for crisper lines but has a shorter 'clean off' time. Worked really nice on my walls

davent · April 12, 2012, 09:35:53 PM

Quote from: petey twofinger on April 12, 2012, 06:10:48 PM

any tips on this , now that i am almost finished with it ?

Looks real good, i like that!

To get a nice clean line there's a few things you need to do. After you've applied your tape you need to seal the tape edge so your next colour can't seep in under any tiny gaps along the tape edge. So tape and either clearcoat or apply the colour thats under your new tape, to the edge of the tape, i usually just spray a layer or two of clearcoat. You can buy vinyl/plastic masking tape which has a much smoother edge then you typical paper type masking tapes, still need to do the clearcoat with it. You can get a nice smooth edge with the paper tape by using an oversized piece and then with a good metal straight edge and a sharp razor knife trim off the excess tape, clearcoat. The Echo Base i showed back during the witch hunt is all done with mutiple masks, frisket film in that case, plus lots of clearcoating. (The black legending is waterslide.) The key is to seal up the tape edge with clear or the old colour before applying your next colour.

echobase http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg841673#msg841673

a couple other examples, various types of tape used and applying and slicing

dave

G. Hoffman · April 13, 2012, 01:46:12 AM

Quote from: petey twofinger on April 12, 2012, 06:10:48 PM
thanks earthscum . this pedal is a GGG ftm . i have a dano ftm clone i was gonna mod / rehouse , but i did the flanger and lifted traces so ....

anyway , we are huge adrian belew fans here , my kid and i took 3rd pace in his "finish my demo " contest a few years back too .

this pedal is a tribute to his old custom fender mustangs :

http://www.guitarflashback.com/backissues/guitarplayer/8401gp.JPG

i have been using the blue painters tape and BOY is it tough to get a well defined "clean" straight line !!!

any tips on this , now that i am almost finished with it ?

Pin striping paint. MUCH better than painters tape. Also, spray your stripe colors first, let it dry thoroughly, tape where you want your stripes, then spray your "field" color. When you have more than two colors, planning your layout can take some time.

By the by, also a big Belew fan. All my favorite KC stuff is Belew era. One of the guitars I make, which is a a variation on the Fender offset bodies, has the switch in the same place (roughly) as his old mustangs, and that is exactly where I got the idea.

Gabriel

kato · April 13, 2012, 08:00:43 AM

Quote from: davent on April 12, 2012, 09:35:53 PM

Thanks Mr. Slacker for showing us some of your tricks. I was in awe of your echo base but I didn't even ask about it because my technique is so oafish. Do you use an airbrush? Any pointers for an eager learner on where to begin? (An art technique book or something?)

Colonel Angus · April 13, 2012, 10:07:38 AM

Don't judge me bro... My first in a proper enclosure. Waiting for knobs and then it should be pretty cool, except the extra hole

deadastronaut · April 13, 2012, 10:22:58 AM

^ i stick leds in 'spare' holes....but i am an led addict

Earthscum · April 13, 2012, 11:53:35 AM

Quote from: deadastronaut on April 13, 2012, 10:22:58 AM
^ i stick leds in 'spare' holes....but i am an led addict

I'll try to remember tonight to get a pic... I have a neat LED trick for ya, Rob.

@petey: G has good ideas. For me, make sure the edge is down before you spray, and as soon as the paint is no longer tacky, but before it totally dries, pull up the tape. It takes a bit of practice, but if you time it right, the edge will be soft enough to not get jagged on you when you pull up the tape. Also, try putting take on something, spray it, and practice pulling it up... you'll find the perfect angle that you can pull a perfect edge. Once you're done, use a FINE sandpaper to just knock down the edges, which will sharpen them up a bit, and then if you want the ultimate... pinstripe all the edges.

deadastronaut · April 13, 2012, 12:15:29 PM

Quote from: Earthscum on April 13, 2012, 11:53:35 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 13, 2012, 10:22:58 AM
^ i stick leds in 'spare' holes....but i am an led addict

I'll try to remember tonight to get a pic... I have a neat LED trick for ya, Rob.

cool....i'll look forward to that....my retinas need a bit more damage...

Colonel Angus · April 13, 2012, 12:37:11 PM

good call. I think this hole needs like an 8mm with Bezel... maybe flashing

davent · April 13, 2012, 08:39:54 PM

Quote from: kato on April 13, 2012, 08:00:43 AM
Thanks Mr. Slacker for showing us some of your tricks. I was in awe of your echo base but I didn't even ask about it because my technique is so oafish. Do you use an airbrush? Any pointers for an eager learner on where to begin? (An art technique book or something?)

Thanks kato, the "Mr. Slacker" note was my homage to 'slacker' who developed the echo base circuit, shared it here and has nurtured it over the years through the dozens of pages in that thread..

You're right, an airbrush and i'm still learning to crawl. Where to start? Our local library system has a good selection of Airbrush books, so i've read all those a number of times. Those are more geared to those who can actually create freehand and i'm not in that group, but there's still lots of useful info in those. There's a good airbrush magazine i sometimes pick up, Air Brush-Action, lots of articles on painting cars and bikes which often involves a fair amount of masking and templates as well as lots of other ideas, info. Many, many youtube tutorials to get ideas from. General art books on using acrylics...

I stick to artist's acrylic paints, no nasty fumes and easy to work with. Prefer a gravity feed, double-action brush, the one like that that i have, has only a small paint cup which holds enough paint for a single light coat of an enclosure. A medium sized cup would make it more versatile and be all i'd need for what i'm doing. (My first brushes are siphon feeds which are great but for them to work you need a greater volume of paint at any one time and sometimes you only need a very tiny amount of a colour you've mixed so you end up wasting more paint with the siphon feed.) Use a noisy, small, portable, reasonably priced workshop air compressor, been doing the job just fine for a number of years.

Without frisket film, various tapes, my xacto knife with a good supply of #11 blades, a cutting mat and big bottle of Autoair Transparent Base Acrylic paint i'd be sunk.

In any case, big topic, if there's anything you needed specific details on feel free to PM me.
(don't want to be accelerating the rush to 1000.)

Take care!
dave

greeny23 · April 14, 2012, 05:19:11 AM

mojomaster.

guitarmageddon · April 14, 2012, 06:11:02 AM

Super Page Bender.

Earthscum · April 14, 2012, 11:25:35 AM

Ok, I forgot last night, but I remembered this morning...

Clear blue, regular red underneath. I use one pole of the switch to switch the red, which has a lower Vf, so when it grounds, it shunts the blue. When the switch is in the other position, it is pulling a fet gate to ground in the clipping path (low gain/high gain), and the other half of the switch flips in a subcircuit that goes after the distortion stage. I just thought it was neat that I could use a SPDT to control a fet AND control indicators... and it's DIY dual color.

azrael · April 14, 2012, 02:26:14 PM

Quote from: guitarmageddon on April 14, 2012, 06:11:02 AM
Super Page Bender.

Nice! So it's a modified MKII? What did you do to it?

guitarmageddon · April 14, 2012, 05:22:15 PM

Most of the work was done by Kaycee, it's a moddification of the Don Mare schematic, (alleged to be how Jimmy Page's Tonebender was modified - from a thread over at the 'other' forum) with the addition of switchable input caps, the tonestack from the Vox Supa Tonebender and the bias adjustment for Q3 placed externally.
All I really did was the vero layout and add a voltage inverting IC.

Seven64 · April 15, 2012, 02:32:45 AM

Magnus modulus guts

owner likes the idea of having 9 knobs, 3 stomps, and 1 toggle with no labels, as it will raise a lot of questions and discussion about his rig. it has a rate knob and a fine rate knob. the rate knob is one of the pots that can have a 3mm led mounted inside of it, and the led is wired to the rate led on the pcb. the trem stomp has its own led as well.

mwynwood · April 15, 2012, 06:14:21 AM

Quote from: Seven64 on April 15, 2012, 02:32:45 AMthe rate knob is one of the pots that can have a 3mm led mounted inside of it

Wow, that's really cool - I haven't seen that before!
Where did you get them from?

kato · April 15, 2012, 07:38:29 AM

Wow. I've never seen a die-cast enclosure so huge! I see you've included a bag of jalapeño chips to indicate scale.

Earthscum · April 15, 2012, 09:36:56 AM

Taking a guess, it's a 1790? http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=567

If so, there's always the "DD" which is much bigger. http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=52

Steve also carries the pots and knobs:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=1186
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=1188

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=1148

I've been eyeballing all that stuff, too... lol. I really want lit pots for a couple projects. One if them is a tube pre that I have a blue LED under the tube, and the power switch bezel glows blue... http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3125352

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