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G. Hoffman · May 15, 2012, 07:43:21 PM

Quote from: Jdansti on May 15, 2012, 02:44:04 PM
The jack goes where the end pin is. I've got a couple of acoustic electrics and you wouldn't know they were electric unless you look for the hole in the jack. My Martin has a trim pot installed just inside the sound hole near the low E string. It's easy to adjust. Here's a video of the jack installation:

That works fine, if your guitar has already got a pickup. If you don't, a standard end pin's hole is too small for the jack and must be reamed out. Please note, I did NOT say drilled out, but reamed out. Trying to do it with a drill bit is an all but certain disaster. And reamers are expensive, so you are probably best to have it done by a professional who already has the tool - it shouldn't be too expensive, as it is a quick and easy job. It just really does require the correct tool.

Gabriel

Jdansti · May 15, 2012, 09:43:36 PM

Quote from: G. Hoffman on May 15, 2012, 07:43:21 PM

That works fine, if your guitar has already got a pickup. If you don't, a standard end pin's hole is too small for the jack and must be reamed out. Please note, I did NOT say drilled out, but reamed out. Trying to do it with a drill bit is an all but certain disaster. And reamers are expensive, so you are probably best to have it done by a professional who already has the tool - it shouldn't be too expensive, as it is a quick and easy job. It just really does require the correct tool.

Gabriel

Thanks Gabriel. I agree. I had my Taylor done by a pro.

michelterres · May 16, 2012, 10:47:02 AM

Hi, this is my first post here, and I wanted to show a work I did for a friend last year, my friend bought a groovin compressor(which is actually a beta alvin compressor sold with another name) and didn't liked it, he asked if I could build a chorus inside of it, so I ripped off the insides of the compressor and used the tonepad layout for small clone with a digital bypass(drawn in corel draw), I also sanded the enclosure \m/

joethugs · May 17, 2012, 12:04:47 AM

Nice!

Slade · May 18, 2012, 10:02:56 AM

Woolly Mammoth with input capacitor blending pot.
Really original 'design', as you can see

Cheers.
Fernando.-

wavley · May 18, 2012, 10:30:10 AM

Slade, that truly is one of the most awesome things I've ever seen!!!

Colonel Angus · May 18, 2012, 12:25:15 PM

Can anybody link to build info for wooly mammoth? I just made our bass player a ROG Ginger and it is not fuzzy enough. Apparently I suck at searching today...

tasos · May 18, 2012, 01:33:17 PM

Quote from: Colonel Angus on May 18, 2012, 12:25:15 PM
Can anybody link to build info for wooly mammoth? I just made our bass player a ROG Ginger and it is not fuzzy enough. Apparently I suck at searching today...

Try madbeanpedals.com

rousejeremy · May 18, 2012, 01:34:16 PM

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/PMcG/vero+layouts/Mammoth.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1

kato · May 18, 2012, 01:50:46 PM

Brian: Direct link to wooly mammoth pdf.

Slade, what's your over/fuzz mod?

Haddock · May 18, 2012, 01:53:03 PM

WOW!!! Slade, that's amazing!!!

Colonel Angus · May 18, 2012, 02:39:11 PM

Thanks guys!

Slade · May 18, 2012, 03:18:12 PM

Quote from: kato on May 18, 2012, 01:50:46 PM
Brian: Direct link to wooly mammoth pdf.

Slade, what's your over/fuzz mod?

Just a blending pot for the input capacitor.
In fact, besides this mod it might need a mix balance pot, to avoid bass loss, but it sounds really good as it is right now.

Magnus · May 18, 2012, 03:54:37 PM

Hello,
wow, this is a beauty of a pedal, Slade

...but why the hell is that diode blue and not orange as the amp-manufacturers-name? (or is this the ironic fun of it maybe?)

Greetings
Magnus

artifus · May 18, 2012, 03:57:07 PM

the led looks yellow/orange in the off state to me. i suspect digital camera ir/uv light exposure shenanigans.

Slade · May 18, 2012, 04:01:51 PM

It's white!

And here's a sample with guitar: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3565959/Pajuan%20Woolly%20Mammoth.mp3

Until minute 2.33 the OVER/FUZZ control is at max (so it's like a stock woolly mammoth) and then it goes to minimum to get some overdrive, or "not so fat" sounds.

Earthscum · May 18, 2012, 05:44:13 PM

Quote from: Slade on May 18, 2012, 04:01:51 PM
It's white!

Jeez... get all racist about it...

That is a nice box, very kewl! Honestly, all the "orange" tinted lense LED's look green to me when they are on. My new vid camera has an "orange to green" charge indicator. I just leave it in overnight because I can't tell if it's charged or not. I kind of wonder if that has to do with my "color ignorance" (apparently it's a funky connection between my eyes and brain that certain colors don't register the same. I don't immediately register red light, but I can pick out shades of stuff like camouflage like it's a red light. Fluorescent orange and pink register as the same color until I see them next to each other. I used to do all my art in B&W because of it, lol).

Pyr0 · May 18, 2012, 06:23:15 PM

Hi all,

ok after a few months of sourcing components, building, debuging, calibrating etc, my moosapotamus MN3007 based A/DA flanger is finally finished, and it sounds sweet.
And yes, I built it on veroboard, thanks to Harald from sabrotone. I won't ever attempt anything this complex on vero again, it's just too painful and prone to errors.

rousejeremy · May 18, 2012, 06:36:50 PM

Looks fantastic! I've had a few "never again" moments with vero as well. I can't imagine the hell you went through debugging all THAT.

Pyr0 · May 18, 2012, 07:52:26 PM

Thanks. I also added a little LT1054 based charge pump voltage doubler so it can be powered from a regular 9v supply. That's the board on bottom right. The LT1054 can supply up to 100mA, so it can handle this pedal no problem, current draw varies between 25mA and 38mA as the LFO does it's business.

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