Pictures!

[threepwood]

Here's my build of the Runoffroove May Queen.

This is my first self-etched board so was really happy when it fired up. 

It was trial and error getting the tolex to stick but I think it was worth the effort in the end.

Thanks to Midwayfair for help with debugging.







I wanted it to look like the control panel of an AC30 so I build a wooden frame to build the sides up a little.  Here it is without the tolex:

[lietuvis]

I love this!  the mustard yellow looks fantastic.  Great work. 

What kind of enclosure is that?

I have cut aluminium sheet and bend it in vice, these days ago i could not imagine to buy an aluminium or similar enclosure or remake PCB artwork, just cloned original rat, to get jfet was also difficult. I lived in Lithuania then.

[Greenmachine]

Vox in a box = totally excellent. 

[darron]

where did you get that chip?? is it something from the 70's? has no brand labelling or batch number etc. weird (:

[midwayfair]

I've succesfully used this kind.
http://www.musikding.de/Connectors/DC-jacks/DC-voltage/DC-power-jack-2-1mm-Lumberg::2097.html

Yeah, for DC jacks those are probably the smallest and best, but there's no US supplier for them that I've been able to find.

[davent]

I've succesfully used this kind.
http://www.musikding.de/Connectors/DC-jacks/DC-voltage/DC-power-jack-2-1mm-Lumberg::2097.html

Yeah, for DC jacks those are probably the smallest and best, but there's no US supplier for them that I've been able to find.

Those are Mode jacks (31-134M-0) which you can get  from Electrosonic in Canada, their minimum order for Canada and the US is now the same, $25. Also have great prices on Neutrik 1/4" jacks , NYS229/230.

http://www.e-sonic.com/aboutus/cat/_pages/1437.pdf
http://www.e-sonic.com/acc/products.aspx?partID=31-134M-0&partIDExt=279&command=detail

Their shipping within Canada is reasonable, don't know about international.

[lietuvis]

where did you get that chip?? is it something from the 70's? has no brand labelling or batch number etc. weird (:

I bought that chip in local electronics shop about 18 years ago. hard to say when it was made.

[HOTTUBES]

Klon Clone ....

[Ronan]

I've succesfully used this kind.
http://www.musikding.de/Connectors/DC-jacks/DC-voltage/DC-power-jack-2-1mm-Lumberg::2097.html

Yeah, for DC jacks those are probably the smallest and best, but there's no US supplier for them that I've been able to find.

Maybe have a look at Element 14 (formerly Farnell) P/N 124-3246.

[Magnus]

Hello,

@lietuvis:
Great pedal, especially the cloned pcb - i like authentic pcb's  


Greetings
Magnus

[Mustachio]

Just finished making this for some one else. Its a modded flatline comp and a modded sonic maximizer. Set up for bass. It really adds a lot of thickness and punch Ill have to make another for myself

[deadastronaut]

^ nice design jim, looks really cool..

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Looks impressive Jim 

Mind sharing your labeling technique?

[~arph]

Mind sharing your labeling technique?

And while you're at it... Mind sharing the guts too  

Edit: what's a monicle?

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Edit: what's a monicle?

Ever seen the Monopoly man?

[Mustachio]

Thanks guys ! This one I used white water proof (or so it says) sticker paper and then pour-on over it all. I did the design/layout in photoshop.

In real life the font looks like its floating above the rest because of the drop shadow in PS and the thick pour-on gives it an illusion. Now a lil trick I used this time and just figured out was to use a heat gun on the pour-on right after I poured it. I didn't hit it hard or close with the heat gun. The reason why is pour-on is cloudy at first lots of lil air bubbles and they say to use CO2 to make the bubbles come to the surface and pop. It says to use your breath or a blow tourch for CO2 (not heat). I usually use my breath and get a bit light headed by the time Im done haha. So this time i used the heat gun and wow it worked great seemed to maybe thin and smooth out the pour-on as well.

Now I have a few other ideas for future pedals ill share. One is to use both white backed sticker paper, then pour-on, then clear waterslide on top of one layer of pour-on, then another layer of pour-on. this will give a heavily layered graphic effect! So thats what Im planning on in the future. I will say if you use pour-on make sure the surface of your decal is smooth or else the pour-on will get under the decal and dis-color it.

Also has anyone used pour-on over bare aluminum ? I have a few pedals I want to use clear waterslide over polished aluminum with pour-on over it all. I like pour-on cause its pretty tuff they use the stuff for bar tops!

I really want to start etching boxes soon, I need to get a laser printer since I can't find a good supply of photo-resist spray. They stopped making Positive 20


Ill try to post gut shots tonight. I still have to rewire one footswitch but ill post guts even if they ugly haha but its really not to bad inside there.

[Mustachio]

haha the first flatline comp I made had this on it



the monicle guy haha




This one didn't have pour-on it was one of my first pedals I ever made last year. In fact it was the first circuit I built and the second enclosure I had done.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Thanks guys ! This one I used white water proof (or so it says) sticker paper...

Can you share the type/source for the paper?

I have been looking for a good sticker paper that will provide good results.

Thanks! 

[Mustachio]

I'm on mobile right now not at my Pc. I purchased the paper from ebay bout a year ago. Ill look tonight and see if I can get you the brand and type. I do remember it saying it drys water proof in 30 seconds. And I don't think it was Avery. I'll pm you later with the info.

[Jdansti]

Mind sharing your labeling technique?

And while you're at it... Mind sharing the guts too  

Edit: what's a monicle?

A monocle (spelled correctly on his pedal) is a one-lens corrective eyewear device.