Pictures!

[glops]

Thanks, guys!!!

Are these Mac Walker boxes made of steel? Did you use ferric chloride to etch them?

Mac's enclosures are made from aluminum, real easy to sand and etch with ferric.  I really like his
boxes because they are diy and give an alternative to regular Hammond, which are fine.  Mac's stuff
just reminds me of the old school...

[midwayfair]

My 51st pedal: 1776 Effects' Multiplex. (My 50th is my Turkey day contest pedal, completed just before this!  )

This is, hands down, the best sounding PT2399 delay I've ever played. Josh really knocked it out of the park. I think I can finally complete my all-DIY board.

[haveyouseenhim]

^  What? Why isn't that in a 1590a?

[illcom]

that is crazy, nice job

[jmwreck]

[Jdansti]

My 51st pedal: 1776 Effects' Multiplex. (My 50th is my Turkey day contest pedal, completed just before this!  )

This is, hands down, the best sounding PT2399 delay I've ever played. Josh really knocked it out of the park. I think I can finally complete my all-DIY board.

Very nice, Jon. I'm curious - Do you ever sleep???  You're a pedal making machine! 

[Pyr0]

Really love those old style industrial pedals Glop. excellent work.

Here's an Eric Johnson Signature Fuzz I just finished, and it sounds really really good, cleans up great too.

[rousejeremy]

^Nice looking build.

[Liquitone]

Nice builds indeed glops!. I especially like the kerosine and the rohypnol. pcb's looking nice and vintage aswell.

Here is my latest build. I recently build a stereo Univibe and decided I needed my plexi-drive to be 2 plexi-drives, since its at the end of the chain and want to keep the stereo effect.
It has an effectloop so I can place my mono pedals in the right channel between the vibe and the drive. I build in a groundlift on the right channel but its not working properly yet.
There is no effect bypass switch on it cause I leave the plexi-drive on all the time along with my treble-booster master and control all my drive sounds from the guitars volume.
I can tell you going from a 3 drive-pedals with 5 footswitches to this setup feel mighty liberating!
I did add a post-boost just in case I do need that extra bit of volume during leads.
I wanted the signal wiring as short as possible, so the switching is done by the boss/ibanez flip-flop circuit driving the relay circuit from R.G. Keen's article.

well here it is along with the stereo-vibe of which i will post the guts when its finished.







The relay-board;



and the guts;

[poppyman]

 hey liquidtone,
I see you still doing this cool looking punch letters finish. I bought a set a while ago and tried it on a classic 125B enclosure. I ended up with very shallow impacts even when I hammered like a maniac. I used ink to make the marking a bit more contrasted but it wasn't that convincing at all. Is it the aluminium you use that makes such clear impacts? Or do you use an alternative technique? (If you mind sharing...)

(insane looking pedal by the way)

[Mtmattan]

Awesome stuff Liquitone! Very original!
What was the rationale for using the relays?
Just to use softer footswitches? Or is there a buffer in there to?
Keep up the good work!

[Liquitone]

Thanks for the compliments

I don't mind sharing at all, after all with no electrical engineering background, without this forum alongside Geofex, FSB and Newtone forum I wouldn't have started actually building my own pedals.
before 2008 my only tool was duct-tape

@poppyman, I had the same trouble as you with the shallow letters.
the way that seems to work best for me is to draw a line, place the letter by hand at the center of the line, without a guide-rail,and then hit it really hard, but only once.
Then it will look like this;

I used to hit a few times in increasing blows, but then the letters would jitter.
like this;

This particular enclosure is of a thinner folded alluminium, like the ones Electro-Harmonix uses, which is a bit easier to punch.
Be sure to have the enclosure on a hard surface and afterwards hammer out the dents from the back.
I have used ink as well to fill in the letters; even when you have a nice deep punch the letters will become hard to see due to reflection from certain angles.
On this last one I used matte chalkboard-paint which takes out all the reflections.

@Mtmattan
There's no buffer in it.
There where several reasons for trying out relays.
Last year I joined a band with an album recording and I noticed the sound of me clicking my pedals on on one song!
(though you can hear young swallows tweeting at the beat of the song, a dog barking, barn-doors and cows in the background aswell, so I doubt people will give me a hard time about the clicks )
So yet, I've wanted to try soft click switches for some time now.
the other reason is that when I did the layout of the board I took great care in keeping the length of the signal wiring as short as possible.
Now the effect loop is placed between the input and the fx input,and with the switch placed at the bottom of the pedal I now had close to 30cm of wire between the 2,
adding another 20cm with the effect loop engaged, Now I just couldn't stand that!
with the relays I managed to bring that down to 8cm from input to effect input.
Since the effect out goes straight to the volume knob and then straight to the pedals output I now only have a total of 13 cm of wire from input to output
(excluding the connections between the parts on the effect board)

Also I wanted to try it out cause relays give so much freedom in switching. I'm working on a stereo tremolo/panner atm and with relays its easier to have true-bypass and stereo in/outs at the same time.

[poppyman]

thanks for the good tips!!!

[deadastronaut]

come on....its been a while....i needed a trololololololo  fix...

[dwan]

Someone for a tremolololo ? 

[garcho]

Wtf?!?! What drugs were they on?

[Valoosj]

come on....its been a while....i needed a trololololololo  fix...

He died a few months ago. Sad day for the music industry ...

[garcho]

There's a music industry?

[jmwreck]

[garcho]

^ nice!