Pictures!

[Liquitone]

The aluminium plates on the painted enclosure look great! those are very flanger-esque functions for a phaser. im guessing regen is something like feedback on other phasers?

[ppcnostalgic]

You are right. When regen is setted at more than 3 o'clock  it behaves like a flanger.

[davent]

^What jacks are you using to stretch through those thick enclosure walls plus added plate?

[pickdropper]

Thanks for all of the kind words, folks.

@ppnostalgic - very nice looking build.  Those aluminum plates are sharp looking.

[ppcnostalgic]

They are Neutrik 6,3mm open mono but they aren't long enough. I had to make the aluminium wall more thin with a file and drill the enclosure with a 12mm drill and then the plate with a 9mm drill. This way it's just possible to stretch the bolt but you're right when you say longer jacks will fit much better.

[therealfindo]

a recent pedal Madbean's modified Mutron III board.  It started raining as I was taking pics, thus the droplets in the photos.

very nice! How do you do te white text over dark colour like that?

[dromilious]

I guess he painted white the enclosure and where you see the letters it is transparent so it shows the backround.

[darron]

I guess he painted white the enclosure and where you see the letters it is transparent so it shows the backround.

looks like it's just co2 lasered?

[thelonious]

I really like how the circle around the LED balances the size of the switch and makes it symmetrical. Now that's just good attention to detail!

[pickdropper]

I guess he painted white the enclosure and where you see the letters it is transparent so it shows the backround.

looks like it's just co2 lasered?

It is indeed CO2 lasered.  The white areas were backfilled with a paint pen and cleaned up with alcohol.  It's actually a bit of a fiddly process.  I don't like doing it, but it looks good when I don't mess it up.

[pickdropper]

I really like how the circle around the LED balances the size of the switch and makes it symmetrical. Now that's just good attention to detail!

Thanks, I appreciate you noticing that.  It was exactly what I was going for.

[darron]

I guess he painted white the enclosure and where you see the letters it is transparent so it shows the backround.

looks like it's just co2 lasered?

It is indeed CO2 lasered.  The white areas were backfilled with a paint pen and cleaned up with alcohol.  It's actually a bit of a fiddly process.  I don't like doing it, but it looks good when I don't mess it up.

cool! glad someone is trying something else!

i've been trying something similar. after lasering the powder i've tried filling it with chrome powder and baking again. but yeah, wiping it out clean is very tricky and time consuming. i make the base coat two or three layers thick too to make the fill area deeper. so 3-4 trips in the oven.

[thelonious]

What wattage laser are you guys using? I assume that one of the $800 40W "cheapies" for engraving crystal and stuff is not going to um, cut it. Or maybe it would engrave the powder, but not etch the metal? I've wondered about using one of these as a chemical-free alternative to etching.

[pickdropper]

What wattage laser are you guys using? I assume that one of the $800 40W "cheapies" for engraving crystal and stuff is not going to um, cut it. Or maybe it would engrave the powder, but not etch the metal? I've wondered about using one of these as a chemical-free alternative to etching.

Well , you won't etch into the metal with a CO2 laser.  For that you need a fiber or yag laser ($$$).

I use an Epilog Mini 18 at work, which is only 30W.  It's a nice quality USA built machine, and a bit pricey at $10k.  But you don't need a ton of power to etch off powder coating.  More power does allow you to cut things like acrylic faster (and cut thicker stock).

Those cheap $800 machines have a lot of problems.  The main one being that many of them won't etch vector based images, which is relatively pointless with laser etching.  I convert all images I use to vectors, which works much better , IMHO.

There are some better Chinese options in the $2-3k range.  Since I am currently shopping for a laser engraver, I've been looking at some of the reasonably priced alternatives, but have yet to find an import that has exactly what I am looking for.  Namely:

1) Reasonably refined software interface
2) Native support for .AI files or uses a standard windows print driver (basically allowing anything to print to it)
3) Readily available replacement parts
4) Robust enough for a production environment

I have found machines that come close to that, but they end up being a bit pricey as well.  I've had to basically take apart and adjust the laser I use at work and have needed to order replacement parts.  So I won't bother with anything that isn't serviceable.  In the end, I am leaning towards an Epilog.

[thelonious]

Thanks for the explanation and for sharing your experience! I had noticed that the cheapie lasers used software that only listed raster file formats as compatible and had wondered about that. Looks like my search for the perfect etching method will continue...

[mongo]

These are amazing. Are you finally in Paris? maybe we could catch up and talk DIY

Plus a Tone Machine on the right

These are awesome!!!

[Zapp Brannigan]

Hello, guys! Don't remember exactly whethter I posted it or no, but meet my Soldano GTO Supercharger build:

[therealfindo]

Hello, guys! Don't remember exactly whethter I posted it or no, but meet my Soldano GTO Supercharger build:

sweet! Nice embossed letters.. how did you do that? 

[Zapp Brannigan]

Those are stickers. I bought alphabet-sticker in a bookstore.

[therealfindo]

Those are stickers. I bought alphabet-sticker in a bookstore.

ah, nice!