Pictures!

[DirkM]

DIY Midi Amp Switcher.




ProgrammChange and ControllChange directly on the device programmable and via PC-application (over Midi):

[davent]

Hi Guys,,

Spyder-ish build, nine independent 9vdc ouputs, 8 @ ~50mA and one double that based around the LM317. Putting a dent in a bunch of mis-ordered power jacks, ugly ugly and nasty to work with Tayda led bezels, a bag of LM317's and big baggy of gifted 2N4002's.

http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/spyder/spyder.htm

dave

[peterg]

Another stunning masterpiece, Dave!

Dirk - nice work! How did you do the labeling?

[midwayfair]

A version of my Hamlet Delay with tap tempo added courtesy of the Taptation. For a customer in Norway.

I used one of the tiny 4PDT rotaries I found recently for the tempo divisions -- I just left out dotted 16ths, because who uses those? It's a little awkward that the Taptation exceeds the PT2399's specifications, so there's a lot of gurgle at the longest delay time setting. Seems like a good call on Jacob's part to move the tone control external for the Hamlet+.

[DirkM]

Dirk - nice work! How did you do the labeling?

Thanks  The front panels are made ​​of laser engraved Transply.

[scuzzphut]

Midwayfair  :  I'm interested in the DC jack you've used for the Hamlet. It looks like it's low profile - and hard up against the footswitch.

Got a linky ??

[lespos]

Midwayfair  :  I'm interested in the DC jack you've used for the Hamlet. It looks like it's low profile - and hard up against the footswitch.

Got a linky ??

Looks like this http://uk.farnell.com/lumberg/1614-09/chassis-socket-psu-500ma/dp/1243246?Ntt=1243246

[therealfindo]

Finally finished my VP Jr Mod



Though it's the first (and possibly last) time I tried vero, and the hand wiring is pants. Given that I'm keen to try getting a pcb fabbed, and this circuit is pretty simple, I might do one up... if anyone is interested I'd get a couple of spares.

[elflicho87]

It looks like reversed etch + hammered paint (but it can't be...can it?), my two favorite type of finish. Beautiful.

probably lazered

it is a reversed etch with a standard paint on it. The surface was hammered like after the etching process. I noticed that this happens with some cheap enclosures like the one i used and does not with hammond enclosures. It wasn't intended but i like the final result.
Anyway thanks for the kind words.
Nic

[midwayfair]

Midwayfair  :  I'm interested in the DC jack you've used for the Hamlet. It looks like it's low profile - and hard up against the footswitch.

Got a linky ??

I get them from Smallbear:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1362

The real Lumbergs are a little harder to get in the U.S., but Smallbear's, if they aren't the real Lumbergs, are much better than the other copies I've gotten elsewhere. The metal isn't hard and the plastic isn't brittle. I had problems with the center pin on some of the cheaper types of this jack coming out! No such issues with these.

The jack clears the footswitch by perhaps a cm, maybe a tiny bit less. It's surprisingly roomy in there.

[stallik]

Did you notice the DC sockets on Davent's Spyder build on the previous page? Smallest I've seen

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Did you notice the DC sockets on Davent's Spyder build on the previous page? Smallest I've seen

Pretty sure those are the usual "nut on the outside" DC jacks with some white washers used as spacers.

[GGBB]

Dave - gorgeous as always.  What are you using on the DC jacks to make them flush - nylon washers?

[davent]

Thanks guys! Yup, those are just the regular outside nut jacks (misordered) that i didn't want sticking way out through the front. For a spacer had some 1/8" × 1½" aluminum plate from Home depot and that took up most of the excess, then found a use for some of my discarded white washers to take up most of the rest of the excess thread.

Tapped and screwed the aluminum to the chassis then drilled pilot holes through both, took it back apart and drilled out the plate to ½", the chassis holes were done as another step so they they could be keyed to the jack bushing.  White washer's were drilled out to ½" as well. For that- bored a ½" hole in a piece of scrap wood attach the washer above the hole with three machine screws and then step drilled, (same technique to enlarge metal washer holes.) Final step, torch the nuts to give them some patina, the shiny cheap chrome just didn't work here.





Take care!
dave

[jimilee]

MXR P90 modded clone.

well that's freakin awesome!! Tell us about it, no gut shots?

[jimilee]

GOaT drive from grind customs

Next is a Madbean afterlife optical compressor


This is my wife's dog

[lespos]

MXR P90 modded clone.

well that's freakin awesome!! Tell us about it, no gut shots?

Thanks

Sorry, i forgot about gutshots  Phaser was built for one of my customers, so I  don't have it anymore. Basically this is MXR Phase 90 from Tonepad with feedback mode switch. Wery cool stompbox, but I didn't like high frequencies boost when signal reaches max phase. So, that's why at the end I added James Baxandall tonestack with simple one transistor output cascade. Now I can adjust much "warmer" tone.

[pickdropper]

Midwayfair  :  I'm interested in the DC jack you've used for the Hamlet. It looks like it's low profile - and hard up against the footswitch.

Got a linky ??

I get them from Smallbear:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1362

The real Lumbergs are a little harder to get in the U.S., but Smallbear's, if they aren't the real Lumbergs, are much better than the other copies I've gotten elsewhere. The metal isn't hard and the plastic isn't brittle. I had problems with the center pin on some of the cheaper types of this jack coming out! No such issues with these.

The jack clears the footswitch by perhaps a cm, maybe a tiny bit less. It's surprisingly roomy in there.

You can get the Lumbergs in the US from Newark.  Newark carries them under the Lumberg brand and under the Multicomp brand (their house brand).  The Multicomps are a bit cheaper.  I couldn't tell the difference when I had them side by side, but it is possible that there is some slight difference.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

You can get the Lumbergs in the US from Newark.  Newark carries them under the Lumberg brand and under the Multicomp brand (their house brand).  The Multicomps are a bit cheaper.  I couldn't tell the difference when I had them side by side, but it is possible that there is some slight difference.

I just looked at every Lumberg "jack" on Newark and I didn't see them 

Could you provide a link to the Lumburg and Multicomps?

[pickdropper]

You can get the Lumbergs in the US from Newark.  Newark carries them under the Lumberg brand and under the Multicomp brand (their house brand).  The Multicomps are a bit cheaper.  I couldn't tell the difference when I had them side by side, but it is possible that there is some slight difference.

I just looked at every Lumberg "jack" on Newark and I didn't see them 

Could you provide a link to the Lumburg and Multicomps?
[/quote

That's strange.  Here they are:

http://www.newark.com/lumberg/1614-09/dc-power-connector-socket-500ma/dp/13M3783

http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mj-14sr/chassis-socket-psu-panel-mount/dp/25R4770?ost=MULTICOMP++MJ-14SR