Fuzz Face question

Started by 8mileshigh, October 24, 2005, 05:46:05 PM

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8mileshigh

Hey Everybody,

I'm new to pedal building and have no electronics experience at all but I did manage to build one of Steve's Tweak-O units and then a Rangemaster with a NOS Hitachi germanium transistor that sounds bloody good if I do say so myself. :icon_biggrin:

My next effort has been the negative ground Fuzz Face from the layouts at General Guitar Gadgets but guess what ?  Damned thing doesn't work ! ???   I know the transistors are good because they came from Small Bear and I went over the circuit about 10 times before I realized it was 2:00 AM and I had to get up at 5:00 AM, it looks good except I'm getting %^&*eyed readings from the transistors.  Anyway, I'm thinking now that the wiring on the stomp switch is throwing me a knuckleball so I wonder if if the suggested wiring will work on the little Alpha switches.  Can anybody help ?  I looked at one of the Carling switches I have and it's numbered differently.  Yeah, yeah please bare with these naive questions, switching along with everything else is quite elusive to me........... but I'm trying  :icon_wink:

Anyway, any light shed on my deliema would be greatly appreciated.  I'm psyched to hear it after having success with the Rangemaster project.

Thanks
Builts completed: Tweak-O, Fuzz Face Si and Ge, Rangemaster,Fuzzrite Si & Ge, Bazz Fuzz, L'il Devil Fuzz, Bosstone one knober, Bosstone Sustainer, Cream Pie, Kay Fuzztone. http://www.myspace.com/chrisdarlington

petemoore

looks good except I'm getting %^&*eyed readings from the transistors.
  Do you feel there is a difference between the descriptives 'good' and '%^&*eyed'?
  AFAs the switching, ditch it or use whatever means you have [say DMM on beep mode applications] to insure that the other tip of the cable from the one that's plugged into the fuzz box [that would be plugged into the source / guitar] has continuuity to the input of the circuits input capacitor. Also be certain that the other tip of the cable that's plugged into the output [the one that goes from box's output to the amp] has continuity between the outside of the output capacitor, through the switch, through the jack 'n plug...probably using the DMM.
  Voltage measurements of the transistors will tell if the bias on the two transistor feedback amplifier [FF] is within operating parameters.
  Reading/Following 'what to do when it doesn't work' post explains most all debugging elemental techniques.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

Fret Wire

Quote from: 8mileshigh on October 24, 2005, 05:46:05 PM
My next effort has been the negative ground Fuzz Face from the layouts at General Guitar Gadgets

Which one?
PNP transistor, negative ground.

NPN transistor, negative ground.
Fret Wire
(Keyser Soze)

8mileshigh

Builts completed: Tweak-O, Fuzz Face Si and Ge, Rangemaster,Fuzzrite Si & Ge, Bazz Fuzz, L'il Devil Fuzz, Bosstone one knober, Bosstone Sustainer, Cream Pie, Kay Fuzztone. http://www.myspace.com/chrisdarlington

8mileshigh

Sorry, I lied, they're PNP from Small Bear  :icon_redface:
Builts completed: Tweak-O, Fuzz Face Si and Ge, Rangemaster,Fuzzrite Si & Ge, Bazz Fuzz, L'il Devil Fuzz, Bosstone one knober, Bosstone Sustainer, Cream Pie, Kay Fuzztone. http://www.myspace.com/chrisdarlington

8mileshigh

Hey guys,

Thanks for guiding me to the What to do if it doesn't work article.  I just discovered a very dumbass mistake, I used a 12 ohms resistor instead of a 12K in the R5 position.  LOL !  :icon_redface:   I'll replace it when I  get a 12K tomorrow and start over. 

Sorry
Builts completed: Tweak-O, Fuzz Face Si and Ge, Rangemaster,Fuzzrite Si & Ge, Bazz Fuzz, L'il Devil Fuzz, Bosstone one knober, Bosstone Sustainer, Cream Pie, Kay Fuzztone. http://www.myspace.com/chrisdarlington

petemoore

  K..
  I like to test the FF circuits before installing the 'better' sets of Q's, I'll put 'grab bag' PNPs or NPN's [depending on whether I'm wirin an NPN or PNP or something inbetween].
  Measureing actula resistances of every R with DMM, and comparing with schematic, just prior to installation is a good habit.
  Test for NON continuity between V+ and V- before applying any power.
  Count node connections, on schematic, then verify visually [or better electrically but that can be slow] that the board actually makes the shown connections, watching for polarities [+/_ correctness] and transistor pinout.
  If you have a DMM with Hfe checker, you can verify pinout, [and Gain to some extent, not accounting for leakage].
   
Convention creates following, following creates convention.