End-all, be-all, strongest clear-coat?

[Bucksears]

I have asked this before (a LONG time ago), but wanted a fresher opinion if anything else is out there.
What do you guys clear coat your boxes with?

I basically spray my boxes metal primer, then a matte white spray paint, then print (inkjet) the graphics out on full-page adhesive labels and cut the labels out and apply them to the top of the white case.
I've used Krylon and other clear acrylic sprays, but they don't hold up very well.

I've read about Alumahyde, but I'm not sure about the 1-week curing time it needs.

So what are you guys using?

[R.G.]

End-all, be-all strongest clear-coat?

Easy - the catalyzed urethane deep coat systems for instant decoupage on tables, etc. It can be set up as much as  1/8" thick  at one coat. There are minor problems with keeping it even on a non-flat surface, OK, but once it's done you have an incredibly good surface.

Second choice: get some 1/8" thick clear lexan sheet. Cut it to fit on the top of your pedal, and drill control mounting holes. Laminate your labelling *inside* the lexan, then bolt the lexan sheet onto the top of the pedal. Additional side benefits are that if you engrave the back side of the lexan, you can edge light it with an LED and the engraving will glow. Better, have a trophy shop engrave your lettering in reverse on the back side, and have disappearing lettering.

[Garrett]

Everyone I've tried is pretty crapy.  I don't even bother anymore.  I just try and nail the paint finish. I high recommend a small toaster oven.        Step 1 - Primer,              Step 2 - let dry,               Step 3 - Paint,          Step 4-bake in toaster oven (outside or in a garage) for 15-20 min.  and  whala.  The heat seems to even out the paint and adhease making a gloss finish. Asumming your paint is a gloss.

I found a toaster oven at Walmart for 18-19 bucks.  Only use for projects, never use again for food!  You may die.


                                Garrock

[Fp-www.Tonepad.com]

Second choice: get some 1/8" thick clear lexan sheet. Cut it to fit on the top of your pedal, and drill control mounting holes. Laminate your labelling *inside* the lexan, then bolt the lexan sheet onto the top of the pedal. Additional side benefits are that if you engrave the back side of the lexan, you can edge light it with an LED and the engraving will glow. Better, have a trophy shop engrave your lettering in reverse on the back side, and have disappearing lettering.

I have done this with my CNC machine, and it's just amazing!.. My machine is slow though, and that means a lot of time and noise making it.

Fp

[Pedal love]

I get results with this stuff-  http://www.dickblick.com/zz217/10/

[The Tone God]

In more of the realm of the common person I would toss it up between two part automotive epoxy coat or powder coat. Which to use depends on the base. For most people I would probably say the epoxy as you don't special equipment. Just patience and common sense.

Andrew

[jrem]

  Only use for projects, never use again for food!  You may die.

from what?  baking paint?  the gasses evaporate and have to go somewhere . . .     is there some scientific point that those gasses hang around waiting to seep into the next cake baked in that oven?   

I've baked a few boxes and my oven doesn't stink and I haven't died yet.   Or should I immediately get a new oven?

[Fp-www.Tonepad.com]

Here's a tip that'll save your ovens:

Use a lamp to cure the paint. I have a desk lamp that gets really hot, so I just put the pedals under it.

Fp

[m-theory]

Clearing over stick on labels isn't easy, because the solvents in the clear tend to loosen up the glue on the label (in my experience, anyway).  I've gotten away from using those sticky labels altogether, and either paint the information or skip it (after all, I should know what my own knobs and jacks are for). 

As for durability, I think a catalyzed urethane automotive clearcoat would be about as strong as you could find, though you're not going to want to mess with it in the basement or garage.  It's costly, and the fumes are very dangerous.  The best bet would be if you had a buddy who was a painter that you could convince to blast your pedal while he's spraying a car.

I've had decent luck with the 2 part epoxy liquid that you can buy at a hardware store (one coat = 50 coats of varnish...incredible stuff), although I can tell you from experience that it does chip is exposed to general knocking around.  It gives a breathtaking finish, however, and I've actually cleared over labels with this stuff with limited success.  I had to keep pressing the labels down through the clear with a toothpick, while the clear was setting up, but eventually, everything stayed in place.   

The drawbacks to this epoxy clear are the cost of entry (a kit with 2 pints (clear and catalyst) will run around $30, though that will do MANY pedals), and the cure time.  You'll need to find a place where the pedals can be left undisturbed and away from dust for several hours.  Expect the clear to still be tacky the next day.  It takes at least 24 hours for it to be cured to the point where you can handle it at all, and even then, it's pretty soft.  A full cure takes several days, if not weeks. 

[Fret Wire]

I've read about Alumahyde, but I'm not sure about the 1-week curing time it needs.

By circulating warm air (90 degree) past it, you can cut the curing time down to two days. Heat lamp and a cheap oscillating fan. That's less curing time than Hammerite. Even with shipping, it's less than $15 for a can. Give it a try.

[Doug_H]

Second choice: get some 1/8" thick clear lexan sheet. Cut it to fit on the top of your pedal, and drill control mounting holes. Laminate your labelling *inside* the lexan, then bolt the lexan sheet onto the top of the pedal.

I've played with this idea before. A "plexi" stompbox.

Doug

[Garrett]

  Only use for projects, never use again for food!  You may die.

from what?  baking paint?  the gasses evaporate and have to go somewhere . . .     is there some scientific point that those gasses hang around waiting to seep into the next cake baked in that oven?   

I've baked a few boxes and my oven doesn't stink and I haven't died yet.   Or should I immediately get a new oven?

I'm not positive on how it may effect your heath.  It just seems unhealthy. Cancer?....

I also have heard that eating food that has been microwaved in a plastic container may cause cancer.

No facts here just caution or what if's.


                            Garrock

[Ge_Whiz]

  the gasses evaporate and have to go somewhere . . .     

Some of those gases are unreacted pre-polymer and activator. They are likely to re-condense on the walls of the oven and re-vaporize next time you heat the oven. Cakes? Yummy. 

I work in a University chemistry department. I have a policy of not heating my lunch in the laboratory ovens.

[Bucksears]

FretWire,
Have you used AlumaHyde?

- Buck

[jrem]

One or two ain't gunna be like a chem lab, but okay, I'll stop cooking boxes in the oven . . .     it stinks, anyways. 

but stop cooking in the microwave with plastic?  maybe we shouldn't be using teflon, either.  or using cell phones.

[niftydog]

but stop cooking in the microwave with plastic?  maybe we shouldn't be using teflon, either.  or using cell phones.

Life is dangerous, enjoy it while you can.

Live fast, die hard - in a nice pair of shorts. That's my motto.

[formerMember1]

 
Actually if you type in online and search for dangers of microwave ovens, you will see that micorwaves are really bad for you.  In many foods it turns the food into cancerous things.  Also heating a plastic or those plastic foam containers from resteraunts are bad for you, especially in a microwave, it releases the bad chemicals in the plastic into your food and into your body once you eat it.  And it is the kind of bad chemicals that don't leave your body, your body obsorbs it.  those foam cups that you get your coffe and capacheenos from the gas station are bad too. (pardon my spelling, i can't spell)

When i found this out, i threw out my microwave, becuase i promised myself i wouldn't use it, but the next day i found myself using it and then saying well i will only use it in a pinch, well a pinch is too much, so i threw it out. 

plus heating the food in the toaster oven tastes better than a microwave anyway!!  (not the ones used for boxes!!)

I read many studies that the microwave oven heats different than the microwaves of the sun.  In studies, it was proven that food that was cooked in a microwave oven, and their proteins morphed and mutated into harmful cancerous molecules.  Also, studies have shown, that when numerous tests were done, people who ate microwaved foods, were tested and had highly cancerous molecule proteins in their blood, compared to before they ate the microwaved meal.  Then they were tested the next day, with before and after they ate a meal cooked in an oven(not microwave) and the cancerous level were significantly lower, i didn't explain it good, but the bottome line, is microwaves are very bad for your health and not worth the convenience of reheating leftovers quickly!!!

search google and see for yourself,..(sorry i couldn't explain it better,)

[Fret Wire]

FretWire,
Have you used AlumaHyde?
- Buck

I've been using it for quite awhile in it's intended purpose, and about two years on pedals. I wouldn't have recommended it if I wasn't using it.

[Fret Wire]

double post

[bwanasonic]

maybe we shouldn't be using teflon, either.

http://start.earthlink.net/article/nat?guid=20051116/437abcd0_3ca6_1552620051116-1133087678

Kerry M