FULLTONE 70'S PEDAL CORRECT POT VALUES?

Started by Dingleberry Electronics, January 26, 2006, 07:56:20 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Dingleberry Electronics

The private eye of Dingleberry Electronics is solving another fulltone mystery... Will he ever find out whats going on in that little blue box?

Has anyone built Fuller's 70's fuzz or has anyone access to one?
Ok, the fuzz pot is obviously 1K or 2K2 lin. and volume might be standard 500K. The pot labelled "MIDS" is
connected as variable resistor parallel with 1K resistor in the output of second trannys collectorresistor (5Ktrim.).
So what sounds sensible to me it could be 1K lin.
Yeah I could try different value pots (probably 2K2 or 4K7 would make sense) and just listen what makes best
effect to my ears, but if someone happened to have waterproof information of the right values jus post them in or if you have 70's pedal
and a DMM right next to you I would be very glad if you could just measure them. Won't take much of you time. I'll by you beer!
Keep on boys! I'll cover ya!

And now something copletely different...

Finally something to ease the pain of buying overpriced effects hardware.
Check out the prices of that site.(specially 3pdt switches!) www.effectsconnection.com

Even if I'm living in another side of the world it feels good to see that the prices can really be so low.
When the word spreads out, damn that man is gonna be wery busy...

-"Private eye"

spudulike

Quote from: Dingleberry Electronics on January 26, 2006, 07:56:20 AM
Has anyone built Fuller's 70's fuzz or has anyone access to one?
Ok, the fuzz pot is obviously 1K or 2K2 lin. and volume might be standard 500K. The pot labelled "MIDS" is
connected as variable resistor parallel with 1K resistor in the output of second trannys collectorresistor (5Ktrim.).
So what sounds sensible to me it could be 1K lin.
Yeah I could try different value pots (probably 2K2 or 4K7 would make sense) and just listen what makes best
effect to my ears, but if someone happened to have waterproof information of the right values jus post them in or if you have 70's pedal
and a DMM right next to you I would be very glad if you could just measure them.

1. Fuzz pot is 1K-B
2. Volume is 250K-A
3. Mids is 1K-B, and connected as you describe.
4. Input cap is 2.2uF, diode at output is 1N34A, diode in neg f/b loop is 1N914.
5. Q's are 2SC828.

Sounds crap. Erm, IMHO  :icon_redface:

Melanhead

Quote from: spudulike on January 26, 2006, 08:18:27 AM
4. diode at output is 1N34A, diode in neg f/b loop is 1N914.
Sounds crap. Erm, IMHO  :icon_redface:


I agree, I built a modded version of it :)

... There were no diodes in the one I opened and have heard the same from others ... Did you see the diodes or are you going by the schematic that was floating around ( not the GGG one but they one drawn by someone named "Luke" )

it's here if you wanna see the changes I made ... and soundclip.

http://www.elixant.com/~stompbox/smfforum/index.php?topic=39531.0


spudulike

I bought mine off ebay a loooong time ago, before I started this damn stupid expensive time-consuming hobby ...  :icon_redface:

The diodes were there, but it sounded like crap and I traded it for an old (but original) Jumbo Tonebender. No idea if it was modded or not, and I havent any others to compare it to - I had to assume it was untouched  :icon_confused:. Mine matched Phillip Bryant's schematic with just a couple of resistor value differences (different spec trannies/biassing ?).

Oh, and arent trochys layouts public domain now they are at Wampcats site ?

Dingleberry Electronics

It was the torchy´s layout from where i traced the scematic out. Couldn't find Schematic from the net. (googled for hours)
Gotta try it with with or without diodes. In the torchys layout diodes were vice versa than what spudulike replied.
F/B-loop diode was 1N34a and 1N914/1N4148 was in the output. There were also differencies between torchys layout
and melanheads' schemo. For me the melanheads' schemo makes sense, it looks more familiar.

I was thinking to add serial resistance to the input. (have made too many fuzz face radios...) I also usually (with fuzzes)
tweak the input cap type and value to my personal taste. I've normally used 100pf cap between the collectors in my silicon fuzzes.
Maybe 47pf would do also. Gotta try can I hear the difference at all or probably just check what I happen to have... Transistors
were oon m modding list also. I dont like much of those 2sc828:s sound and of course there's also different pinout... Usually I go with BC107
BC108 or BC109. (or bc547/548/549/550...) Depends on the purpose. Also I've got really good results with 2N3904 and BCsomething hybrid.
I really like the sound when high gain BC109C is punishing 2N3904! 109C:s turns me on... Maybe I try also MPSA18's.
(probably buy a bottle of whiskey and spend a night rooting my stashes...)

Once I customized muff (green russian) for
my fellow and changed all trannies with high gain BC109's. Damn it became mean... It just sang and sustained and sustained and sustained...
I knew he was very into hoodoo-swamp-blues so I measured a bunch of those until I found four trannies with hfe:666. Every now and then when I see him he keeps tellin'
that there's something evil in that box... He guessed that it could be the soul of Robert Jonson that Satan returned...

Ok, but thanks for the advice guys. I'll post some results when I got time to make one. All comments and modding suggestions still welcome.

-Tommy Dingleberry


Melanhead

Quote from: spudulike on January 26, 2006, 04:39:03 PM
I bought mine off ebay a loooong time ago, before I started this damn stupid expensive time-consuming hobby ...  :icon_redface:

The diodes were there, but it sounded like crap and I traded it for an old (but original) Jumbo Tonebender. No idea if it was modded or not, and I havent any others to compare it to - I had to assume it was untouched  :icon_confused:. Mine matched Phillip Bryant's schematic with just a couple of resistor value differences (different spec trannies/biassing ?).

Oh, and arent trochys layouts public domain now they are at Wampcats site ?

Yup, I think Mike tweaks his designs constantly or maybe the diodes are fakes :) ... who knows, I never tried building it with 'em though and didn't like the sound of the one I borrowed, neither did my friend as he replaced it with my FullBeard!  :icon_mrgreen:  ... Hmmmm, not sure about Torchy's layout as he gave Brian permission to post them, but it's still his work. I just don't feel right about posting my new layout without his permission, out of respect, as I changed his work around... but of course I'll e-mail it to anyone who PM's me with the promise it won't get posted, unless of course Torchy pipes in and says it's okay  :icon_mrgreen:. I also found that his layout had an error in the MID pot section, it didn't work. I don't think it was  verified by anyone here before it was taken down originally.

Melanhead

Quote from: Dingleberry Electronics on January 26, 2006, 05:31:57 PM
There were also differencies between torchys layout and melanheads' schemo. For me the melanheads' schemo makes sense, it looks more familiar.


Yup ... the mid section is different as I couldn't get it to work on Torchy's layout ...

Have fun! ... I'm not a fuzz guy but I'm really happy with how mine turned out ...

Dingleberry Electronics

QuoteHave fun! ... I'm not a fuzz guy but I'm really happy with how mine turned out ...

I'm not so fuzz guy either, I still hope one day I willl be... The day I find the perfect fuzztone...
I was also wondering could the diodes be just a practical joke... or just his tweakings...
Never ever seen diodes used that kind of way in a fuzz box. And why there is just one diode
in the output? The rangeblaster design from fuzzcentral has one germanium diode from Q:s
collector to base. But its germanium transistor and the diode is there to offset the temperature
variations of transistor. Silicon devices should not vary with temperature, and ok, the torchy's layouts
diode is connected from Q2:s collector bypass cap's +terminal (the wiper of gain pot) to Q1:s base...
I suppose it's there to make some kind of variable neg. feedback circuit with the 100K f/b resistor?

As I earlier said just have to breadboard one and try...