have I maybe ruined my PDS 2000?

britt-stinker · January 28, 2006, 06:26:32 PM

Hey everybody!
The other day I found a manual on the net for the Digitech PDS 8000, 1002 and 2000. In the manual it said that the pedal could be runned on 9v DC, even though it says in the back that it needs a 10v AC adapter.
Stupid as I am I thought that I could mod it to accept a normal boss 9v DC style Jack. Of course it didn't work. And now I think I have broken something. But what?

Can It be repearied?
And what should I look for?

Thanks

Dave_B · January 28, 2006, 06:29:40 PM

Is the adaptor large enough to power the pedal? Alesis adaptors are often 9-10vac. Do you have one of those you could try, by chance?

RDV · January 28, 2006, 06:33:27 PM

Will it work with a battery?
I've got one and it needs an unregulated 9v adapter which of course is way over 9v. The problem is the 1/8" jack and determining the polarity.
They're pretty tough overall though. I'd be surprised if you ruined it that way.

RDV

NoFi · January 28, 2006, 06:42:56 PM

I had several PDS2000's and i still have a PDS20/20 (great pedal).
I always powered all of them using a one spot (9Vdc) with the correct minijack adapter, just like for rat pedals (positive tip).
It works great.
I didn't even know they were supposed to be powered with 10V AC adapters !

NoFi · January 28, 2006, 06:46:14 PM

I'm looking at the back of the unit and it says, "For AC operation, use a 10 Volt DC negative ground power supply".

A boss style jack would be the wrong polarity.

britt-stinker · January 28, 2006, 06:58:13 PM

I tried to power it with my baby adapter(like the voodoo lab powertrain or what its called), after I modded it to take a standard boss jack. Maybe I have just wired the original jack back worng.(?) Could someone post a picture of how the wires are wired to the jack? Thanks.
I forgot to right down how it was wired. Stupid me.
When I tried to power it up it lighted up but I couldnt get the on/off led to turn off, and I didn't get any sound through it.
But should it light up when powered with a battery, if the wires are connected wrong?

Thanks

NoFi · January 28, 2006, 07:06:12 PM

I'm opening the unit, just hang on lol.

NoFi · January 28, 2006, 07:21:40 PM

So i opened the back and unscrewed the PCB and then remembered i had to unscrew all the pots to reach the wires. I'm not going further right now sorry.

But anyway, if your battery wires are directly connected to the PCB, then the unit should work without the DC jack.
If one of the battery wires is connected to the DC jack, then you might have something wrong with the wiring at the jack.
If one of the wires going to the DC jack is black, or goes to the negative side of the battery, or to other ground connections, ground wires or ground plains on the PCB, then it's a safe bet saying this wire is the ground. It must be connected to the part of the DCjack that touches the chassis.
The other wire must be connected to the part wich makes contact with the tip of the DC jack.

What troubles me is the following, if one LED is lighting up, the battery is probably connected fine, nothing is shorting at the DC jack, and something else is probably not working.
I really hope you didn't fry anything !

Paul Perry (Frostwave) · January 28, 2006, 09:13:57 PM

I don't have one of these. My comments are simply general:
If a device is intended to be driven by a low voltage AC input, usually (not always) one side of AC input goes to ground, and the other goes to a diode for a + supply, and also to a diode the other way around for the - supply. Then you have a + and - supply, good for the analog part of the circuit. And, it may well be, that the + side also goes to a 5 regulator for a digital supply.
Now here's the kicker.... if you accidentally plug a DC supply in, then (depending which way around the polarity is) you may succeed in turning on the + side, includign all the digital stuff. So the digital panel controls work fine, but the analog is handicapped by not having a - side at all

Usually, this doesn't result in a destroyed unit.

I don't know whether this has anythingtodo with what is happening with the unit in question.
It is certainly unfortunate that people refer to plugpacks as "AC adptors" when the vast majority are in fact DC output.

britt-stinker · January 29, 2006, 04:43:51 AM

Quote from: NoFi on January 28, 2006, 07:21:40 PM
So i opened the back and unscrewed the PCB and then remembered i had to unscrew all the pots to reach the wires. I'm not going further right now sorry.

But anyway, if your battery wires are directly connected to the PCB, then the unit should work without the DC jack.
If one of the battery wires is connected to the DC jack, then you might have something wrong with the wiring at the jack.
If one of the wires going to the DC jack is black, or goes to the negative side of the battery, or to other ground connections, ground wires or ground plains on the PCB, then it's a safe bet saying this wire is the ground. It must be connected to the part of the DCjack that touches the chassis.
The other wire must be connected to the part wich makes contact with the tip of the DC jack.

What troubles me is the following, if one LED is lighting up, the battery is probably connected fine, nothing is shorting at the DC jack, and something else is probably not working.
I really hope you didn't fry anything !

I have never seen an adapter jack like the one in the pds 2000, its a little plastic thing with a see through side. Thats the main reason I'm not sure which wires go where.

On the dc jack all the lugs are in a straight line. I connected the red + wire from the battery to the last lug. Then if I'm right, there were two more wires one was purble abd another was white. I believe I could see the purble one going to ground on the pcb, so I connected this to the first lug and then the white one to the one in the middle.

Doesn't this sound just a little right?

NoFi · January 29, 2006, 09:14:03 AM

Ok you convinced me to open it up. I think you got it right.
The red wire from the battery goes to the last lug (the furthest from the chassis, tip of the jack)
Then on the middle lug, there is a white wire going to a connector on the PCB.
The third wire on mine is black, it goes to the input jack where a purple wire is also soldered. It's the ground and it goes to the last lug, close to the chassis.

NoFi · January 29, 2006, 09:25:13 AM

britt-stinker · January 29, 2006, 10:00:02 AM

I've just tried it with a battery, and the signal sort of gated and was really distorted when it was at all possible to hear. What can be wrong? Im gonna open it up again to check, because there is something totally wrong. I'm not sure but could it be the battery?

NoFi · January 29, 2006, 10:11:23 AM

Did you touch the trimpots ? Or anything else besides the wiring ?
I know on some settings, the trimpots will give digitally distorted delays, very cool.
You may also have damaged something by inverting the polarity.
I'm afraid i can't help you further, understanding the circuit on those pedals is way beyond me.

dr · January 29, 2006, 01:30:09 PM

....if this pedal is a PDS20/20,try replacing the 330uf electrolytic,the 78L05 (TO92 package) and the 1N4001 diode and see what happens...I have repaired several of these;three of my own that got that way by overvoltage;in one, the distorted sound you refer to was because of the J113 involved in the same section.........

britt-stinker · February 07, 2006, 09:14:26 AM

Quote from: dr on January 29, 2006, 01:30:09 PM
....if this pedal is a PDS20/20,try replacing the 330uf electrolytic,the 78L05 (TO92 package) and the 1N4001 diode and see what happens...I have repaired several of these;three of my own that got that way by overvoltage;in one, the distorted sound you refer to was because of the J113 involved in the same section.........

It's a pds 2000. I think the problem was because I inverted the polarity. So the broken parts would be in the powering section of the PCB right?
Is there a "normal" thing that usually breaks when inverting the polarity?

Thanks

dr · February 07, 2006, 12:20:36 PM

....the reason I thought it was a PDS20/20 is because of the color of the enclosure-never saw a PDS2000 in a red enclosure,only different shades of blue......

Gladmarr · February 07, 2006, 02:27:42 PM

Is one side of your "new" DC adapter jack grounded to the case of the pedal? If so, you may be shorting part of your DC supply to the ground of the audio jacks. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it, but you may not be giving the pedal full input power as a result. That could conceivably be shunting your battery to ground when you have that in there as well. Try removing the DC jack from the chassis of the pedal and see if that helps.

britt-stinker · February 12, 2006, 11:49:30 AM

Quote from: dr on February 07, 2006, 12:20:36 PM
....the reason I thought it was a PDS20/20 is because of the color of the enclosure-never saw a PDS2000 in a red enclosure,only different shades of blue......

It wasn't me that posted a picture of the red pds. And that was a 20/20

britt-stinker · February 12, 2006, 11:51:26 AM

Quote from: Gladmarr on February 07, 2006, 02:27:42 PM
Is one side of your "new" DC adapter jack grounded to the case of the pedal? If so, you may be shorting part of your DC supply to the ground of the audio jacks. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it, but you may not be giving the pedal full input power as a result. That could conceivably be shunting your battery to ground when you have that in there as well. Try removing the DC jack from the chassis of the pedal and see if that helps.

I put in the old DC jack after I couldn't get it to work correct. So I don't think thats the problem

News:

have I maybe ruined my PDS 2000?