So I think I killed my Boss CS-3...

[fatfat]

I posted this originally in the Harmony Central FX forum (http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=15401274#post15401274), and haven't been able to resolve the issue, so it was suggested that I try posting here.

I did Monte Allums Opto Mod on my Boss Cs-3... and... well, it's not looking good. I went through about 4-5 steps (checking each time and it was still fine), then just said @#$% it and did the rest of em all at once without checking (yes, there was a huge warning NOT to do this ). Anyway, I plug it in, and get... nothing.

Anyway, I was wondering if any of you think electronics nerds this is salvageable/fixable. There's one spot towards the middle of the board where the little connector thing on the board was coming off (it was soldered, but still wasnt working) and eventually came off after trying so many times to get it right.

Any thoughts?

It was suggested that I reheat the solder joints as well as use a jumper wire to connect the places where the trace had lifted off the board. I did this, but it is still not working. If anyone has any suggestions on things I could try or what you think might be wrong from looking at the pic, please chime in. I have very limited tools (just a soldering iron, and yes the job doesn't look that great in the pic). Thanks

(click on image for large detailed pic)

[twabelljr]

    Post a picture of the other side and I will compare it to my CS-3. Mine has part Monte mods, and part Indy mods, But I may be able to notice a problem. I also have a schematic, and pictures of the original board with no mods.

[fatfat]

Here are pics of the other side:

angled from left side
angled from right side
top view

[wampcat1]

That Germanium diode needs to be turned around.

[wampcat1]

That Germanium diode needs to be turned around.

BTW, if you bought the kit off of Monte, you are paying him for tech support as well - I'm sure he'd gladly walk you through it too, BUT, fix that germanium diode and I bet it will work for you.

Take care,
Brian

[twabelljr]

    Like Brian said, D1 is backwards. The stripe (cathode) should be on the end closer to where the wires hook to the board.
Also, D2 and D3 need to be turned around.

[Peter Snowberg]

GREAT pictures!

It looks to me like you may have a short under C2 next to one of your jumpers.

Your repairs look really good, but your solder joints all look dry. Does your solder have a rosin core? If so, I think your iron is a little too hot for these delicate boards. You can lower the heat with a simple lamp dimmer set to about 75%.

I would add a little more rosin core solder to each of the connections so that they end up with a nice shiney coating. You'll need to apply more solder than the connection wants to have, so you'll have to apply, remove excess with the iron, clean the iron (or just tap it on a hard surface to knock the excess off), and repeat.

Look really closely at each of your connections. Check to make sure nothing is shorting to an adjacent connection, and that the pad is not torn away from the trace. You'll get it running, I have no doubt. 

[twabelljr]

   Notice the diode symbols printed on the board with the arrow (triangle) pointing at the line at D1, D2, and D3. That arrow is basically pointing to which of the 2 holes in the board the stripe on the diode should be closer to. Also, notice that all 3 of them are installed backwards. Accidentally I'm sure.

[fatfat]

Thanks guys, I will try that. The instructions didn't mention anything about the direction of those germanium diodes (and I have no clue about this stuff! ). I would've contacted him first, but I felt bad cause he gave the warning about NOT doing all the parts at once, cause it's hard to troubleshoot (obviously).

Oh, and yeah the iron is hot (60w), but it's all I have right now..

[fatfat]

Ugh.........I busted one of the diodes when I was trying to get it out. This sucks!

On the mod sheet it says they are 1N34A Diodes. Would stores like radio shack or fry's electronics carry this part? I'd prefer to pick it up locally than order online if I could.. I'm in Phoenix, AZ.

[fatfat]

From what I see online, it looks like they should carry them. I'll head over tomorrow and see if I can find it.

[twabelljr]

    If you put a good 1N34A in D1 position, and put the 2 red/yellowstripe stock diodes back in D2 and D3 you will have the regular CS-3 mod. The 1N34A's in D2/D3 are the only difference between the regular and opto mods. You can do that so you can use your compressor while you wait to score some 1N34a's. I did not see them at Rdio Shk's website, but you can order 8 for $2.00 from Aron. Click on the store link at the top of this forum.  

[fatfat]

The 1N34A's in D2/D3 are the only difference between the regular and opto mods. 

Ah, I didn't know that. I did just put the 2 stock diodes back in D2 and D3, with a good 1N34A in D1, and it's still not working. Hmm.. and yes, they are facing the correct direction. 

[twabelljr]

     That suks. Now you just have to look for less obvious problem(s). All of your polarized tantalum caps are in correctly, So it's prob. not them. Clean your soldering iron and make every joint on the back that looks questionable good. Also, check for solder bridges where the wires come through the board. Start with the ones circled in red. Your joint slould be smooth and shiny, not gray and crusty. Take your time, you will revive it!
    Oh, make sure none of your off-board wiring got broke loose.

[wampcat1]

Also at this point I would build the 'audio probe'. This will not only help you fix it quick, but it will teach you ALOT about the circuit. Do a search for "audio probe' diagram or something like that.

Also, many of my customers do the same thing - everything goes smooth and first so they rush the rest of the mod. I know Monte and he's a good guy, I'm sure he'll still help you...after all, that's *really* what you are paying for when you purchase a modification kit off of us.

Take care,
Brian

[fatfat]

I built one of those audio probes and I started tracing through the circuit (pretty cool  ), but I'm stuck on D2, D3. I have circled them below in the pic. I've also picked up a lower switchable watt soldering iron as well, and I cleaned up the connections pretty nicely (the pic below is the same old one from before).

In the pic, for the one on the left (D2), the bottom connection works fine, and for the one on the right (D3), the top connection works fine, but once I go to the next "area" (by the upside down 2) that is all connected, I can't get a signal from any of the points on there. Any ideas on what's wrong or what I could do to test it (like putting some temp jumpers)? I've tried to think it through but my brain is fried from a long day at work. Thanks.

(click image for large pic)

[zacharybroyles]

I dont think I saw this mentioned yet, Have you accidentally let the legs of any parts touch the legs of any other metal parts that might short it out. Sounds kind of obvious but one day I was racking my brain over a pedal that wasnt working i had 2 caps leaning over and the legs were touching. I've been there but be paitent. If I can give any advice before you stress out. Set the pedal down, turn the iron off. Watch some TV or something and get your mind off of it and then come back to the pedal later. One day I worked on a broken DD-3 for like 5 hours and a wire was loose........man i felt stupid.

[fatfat]

As far as I can tell, nothing seems to be touching. That wouldn't have affected any of the parts had they been earlier, right?


Yeah, it's funny I was messing around with this for a long time a few days ago and then I saw that the wire connected to the output jack had been pulled off of the board.  Unfortunately, that wasn't the problem...    It's kind of frustrating, yes... considering I hardly have much time to work on it as is. i'd almost rather just buy another and have someone else do the mod (or buy somethin else). I'll keep trying though.. 

[wampcat1]

I built one of those audio probes and I started tracing through the circuit (pretty cool  ), but I'm stuck on D2, D3. I have circled them below in the pic. I've also picked up a lower switchable watt soldering iron as well, and I cleaned up the connections pretty nicely (the pic below is the same old one from before).

In the pic, for the one on the left (D2), the bottom connection works fine, and for the one on the right (D3), the top connection works fine, but once I go to the next "area" (by the upside down 2) that is all connected, I can't get a signal from any of the points on there. Any ideas on what's wrong or what I could do to test it (like putting some temp jumpers)? I've tried to think it through but my brain is fried from a long day at work. Thanks.

(click image for large pic)

The audio probe will teach you ALOT about a circuit. Also keep in mind that trouble shooting is when you learn the most in this hobby.
Here's the schem:
http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/images/cs3.gif (courtesy of Mr. Dirk Hendrik  )


The diodes in question are located underneath IC1a there. Keep following the circuit to see if you have sound at other points. If you have NO sound anywhere else in this circuit it is definately right there at the diodes. Don't give up though, this is the time that you'll learn the most!

Brian

[fatfat]

Thanks for the schematic. I'm still not sure what I'm supposed to do about the problem though. So if I touch one side of the diode and it's fine, but the other side doesn't work, then is there some sort of short related to the parts of the circuit on the other side of the diode? or is something wrong with the diode(s)? If it's a short, then do I just have to disconnect all the parts? I tried putting some intermediary wires to bypass the diodes, but it didn't seem to do anything.