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Phuncgnosis help

Started by psiico, March 23, 2006, 09:23:08 AM

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psiico

I built a Phuncgnosis with Millenium Bypass and it doesn't work.

Schematic can be found here:

http://www.geocities.com/tpe123/folkurban/fuzz/snippets.html

I first built the cicuit on a solderless breadboard and it worked great.  Then I out it on a perfboard and now it's not working.  The Millenium Bypass lights up when it's on but there's no sound.  I do get a guitar signal when the pedal is off though.

I didn't have a 5M resistor so I used two 1M's and a 3.3M.  I know that's more (5.3M) but it worked fine on the breadboard.  IC is a TL072.  Q1 is a 2N5457.  I couldn't find any transistor sockets locally so I used a four hole socket for something else, I just used 3 holes of it.  Also I don't have a 1M pot yet so it's a 500k but that worked on the breadboard too.  Lastly the cap leading into the envelope follower (0.01uf, right after 1M pot) is a 0.02uf cap in mine, that also worked in the breadboard.  Obviously my problem is in either my soldering or the layout since I came up with it myself.

Here's a sloppy version I made to work from:



I didn't label any parts on purpose, on the paper version I printed out I went over the schematic and labeled them then to make sure my connections made sense.  I thought they did, lol.  The green thing at the bottom is a wire terminal so I could more easily change the pot to a 1M when I get around to picking one up.  The brown square in the upper left is the thing I used for the transistor.  Below that the round red thing is the indicator LED, it's not mounted on the board.  The red ractangles on the right are the LED's and the gap there between them is for wiring the switch.  I ended up not doing it that way,, I also changed the position of a diode when I built it.  The two green lines don't make sense, the one for out is just pointing to the out but the one marked 9v+ means both of the lines it touches the ends of get 9v, that's one of the reasons I built it differently, to avoid that.  Also there's a dotted blue line under a cap in the upper left, that's a wire going underneath, I didn't do any of the others, don't know why I did that one.

Okay, here's the actual build:













Sorry if that's too many pictures but I wanted to make sure you can see it.  I'm too lazy to drag out my tripod but I can do macro shots of the bottom without the flash if need be. 

The indicator LED is attached with a two prong connector I cannabalized from an old phone.   That's because it has to go into the box from the outside unlike all the other parts.  I already had this in a box but took it out since it didn't work.  The white jumper is there because I'm using the box to connect the ground on the output plug to the ground on the input plug.  The big freaky blue cap is still mounted perpindicular to the green thing like in my drawing, it's just had it's legs bent to better fit the board, I really should hve used something smaller there, lol.  It's not a 0.01uf like the schematic asked for, it's 0.02uf.  It worked on the breadboard.

Here are my voltages:

Battery 8.75

IC1 - TL071
1 - 8.12
2 - 6.50
3 - 0.60
4 - 0
5 - 6.46
6 - 1.29
7 - 8.18
8 - 8.77

D1    Anode 0    Cathode 0.02
D2    Anode 0.02    Cathode 0.02
D3    Anode 0.02    Cathode 2.41
D4 (for bypass)    Anode 0.01    Cathode 8.74

LED1 (for up sweep)    Anode 0    Cathode 0
LED2 (for downsweep, closest to 9v+)   Anode 8.69    Cathode 7
LED3    Anode 7    Cathode 5.3
LED4    Anode 5.3    Cathode 6.46

Q1
G 0.01
S 7.67
D 8.71


Considering it worked on the breadboard and my layout makes sense (to me at least) the problem has to be in the soldering.  I'll have to go over it again.  I saw two other posts where people had their voltages for this circuit and both had different values from each other and from me so I have no idea if I'm even close to where I should be.  I should have measured it when it was working on the breadboard. 

Thanks in advance everyone.

psiico

Okay, I fixed but, but now I have a new question.

I pored over it a dozen times and a dozen ways, slept on it and pored over it again, still couldn't find anything wrong with the layout or the soldering.  In desperation I popped out the IC and dropped a TL082 in there.  Bingo!  Now it worked, although noisy.  Dug through my parts bag and found another TL072, put that in and it works.  Some hiss but I assume that's from being unshielded, it was much quieter on the breadboard.

Obviously I ruined the first TL072 somehow since it was working on the breadboard.  How did I wreck it?  I don't want to fry another.

343 Salty Beans

a simple short, maybe.

Another note: if you have a lot of static electricity in you (if you have wool carpet, etc.), and you touch an IC, it can fry it. I don't have wool carpet, but to be safe, I always touch a grounded metal object before I get an IC. And to be safe, store the ICs in this special foam that's around...I forget what it's called. But it keeps them safe from static discharge.

Transmogrifox

Yeah, you probably ESD'd it (like saltybeans suggested).  This may be your noise problem, too.  If you have a pile of components that are in a container that you dig through often, there's a good chance that you have discharged static electricity through those components quite a bit.  Sometimes an ESD (electrostatic discharge) will completely ruin the chip so it doesn't work, or sometimes it will just compromise its performance (such as increased noise).  You may also have a parasitic effect going on that has made your circuit unstable at an ultrasonic frequency.  The result can be increased audible noise.  That kind of thing can come from trying to pack components too close to each other and standing resistors on end.
trans·mog·ri·fy
tr.v. trans·mog·ri·fied, trans·mog·ri·fy·ing, trans·mog·ri·fies To change into a different shape or form, especially one that is fantastic or bizarre.

psiico

Okay, I've been considering a rebuild anyway since I've already discovered some things I might want to change.  It's my first real pedal.  I built a heavily modified Electra on a piece of plywood, it's still there.  I was expecting I might want to redo it anway, that's why I bent the components' legs like I did, they are a bit longer then if I had pushed the components closer to the board.