Board Mounting Hardware

[Kondor]

I need information  on what type glue, epoxy, etc. to use when placing the aluminum mounting hardware with the 1/4" threaded spacers and screws that goes through the pad-per-hole board and holds the board in place.  I've bought Loctite quick set epoxy and that doesn't work.  I tried JB stick weld and that doesn't work.  So if anyone has found one that does work please let me know.  And where can you purchase it?
Thanks.

[R.G.]

What you want is Millermatic 210. It's a little bit of a pain to use, but you get superior results.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

Adhesive standoffs work for me, or am I missing something?

[delbowski]

hi...

i'm using LEPAGE 12 five minute epoxy for mounting my board mounts. 

http://www.lepageproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=21&subid=54&plid=277

it works great... i let it sit for a minute to get a little tacky and then put it on and around the nut.  i'm in canada, but on their website it says that you can get it at home depot or wal-mart.  hope this helps!

del

[jrem]

What you want is Millermatic 210. It's a little bit of a pain to use, but you get superior results.

a Miller tig welder?  Welding steel studs to aluminum?  major pain, if doable at all.  welding aluminum to aluminum?  it's an art, you need dc and argon, major pain for a diy'er http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_products/ might be easier but you need an arbor press at minimum to set the fasteners.

I'm thinking board mounted pots are the way to go, even Alpha has pots with long sturdy leads. Usually I just wrap everything in bubble wrap and stuff it in there.  Gotta get away from that . . .

[redeffect]

Have to agree with Frostwave; adhesive standoffs. Haven't had one fail yet. Just make sure the surface you're applying them to is clean and dry.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

For my current commercial units, I either use PCB mounted pots to hold the board on (there's a LOT of pots, and only a light board) or else factory mouned welded bolts. No failures ever, either way.
But when I started, I was using the 3M adhesive standoffs, and I never had one of those fail either. I don't like the 3M company, because of how they harassed 3MS effects, but they sure know how to make a standoff.
IF anyone is in love with bolts, and goin to do lots, there are always rootnuts.. but you need the expensive gadget to insert them. (just googled.. maybe rootnuts are extinct! they are the nut like things that are fixed in a sheetmetal hole, kind of like a rivet with a thread).
Of course, for diecast boxes, it would be dead easy to tap a thread in it (either blind or not).

[burnt fingers]

I've been using the doouble sided foam tape and sticking the baord right to the back of the pots.  The radio shack stuff sucked but the actual 3m stuff works very well.  Paul, Where did you get the 3m standoff's from?  I'd like to give tham a try too.

Scott

[Kondor]

I appreciate all the input on this topic.  The reason I prefer the 1/4" aluminum threaded spacers and screws is because they do not take up any extra space beyond the board, they have a more professional finished look, and if I need to remove the board it is very easily removed just by unscrewing the 4 screws. 
  I know the plastic standoffs work just as well except the problem I see using these are the fact that the base of each standoff sticks out beyond the board.  So, when you add the extra space that these four standoffs take up in a small Hammond 1590B aluminum enclosure, it's harder to work with versus using the aluminum mounting hardware.  Also, removing the board when using the plastic hardware can sometimes be a pain. 

[Kondor]

I've gotten the plastic standoffs from www.mouser.com part number #561-LAD187 and have tried them and I agree they are another alternative to use versus using the aluminum threaded spacers and screws and glueing them down.   

[Kondor]

R.G. you suggested a Millermatic 210?  That's a mig welder.  Is that what you use?  The price I saw on them was $1,289 to $1,425.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

Paul, Where did you get the 3m standoff's from?  I'd like to give tham a try too.

I'm in Australia & got them from Altronics mailorder (my main supplier for 'ordinary' electronic stuff).
But everyone (including Steve at SmallBear Electronics, who has most stompbox related things) has them as well, I believe.

[Kondor]

I went to Home Depot last night and purchased "Super Glue Industrial Strength Epoxy Adhesive" and applied that on the 1/4" threaded spacers and also on the vertical steel, nickel plated battery holder and let set overnight.  It works great! It works on metal, wood, Tile, crafts, ceramic, pottery, and fabric.  It takes 4 to 6 minutes to set and you can handle it in 30 minutes.  Full strength is attained after 16 hours. It's strength is 1000 lbs. per square inch and water resistant. 
  They didn't have the "Lepage 12".

[ampman50]

When building a Fulldrive clone for a friend, I had to find a better system then the double stick tape I've been using. I found some 10mm standoffs at Radio Shack, p/n 276-1381. These are plastic with threaded brass inserts so you don't have to worry about shorting something to ground. I used Locite Aquamarine Epoxy that I found at Target. I took a Dremmel to rough sanded the area I was gluing to and around the the bottom of the standoff. I screwed the standoffs to the board a placed a glob of epoxy to the bottom of the standoff, postioned the board in the box and let set over night. The next day I removed the board and added mored epoxy around the base of the standoffs for strength.

[Kondor]

When building a Fulldrive clone for a friend, I had to find a better system then the double stick tape I've been using. I found some 10mm standoffs at Radio Shack, p/n 276-1381. These are plastic with threaded brass inserts so you don't have to worry about shorting something to ground. I used Locite Aquamarine Epoxy that I found at Target. I took a Dremmel to rough sanded the area I was gluing to and around the the bottom of the standoff. I screwed the standoffs to the board a placed a glob of epoxy to the bottom of the standoff, postioned the board in the box and let set over night. The next day I removed the board and added mored epoxy around the base of the standoffs for strength.

There's a Radio Shack about 10 minutes from me, I'm going over there today to check that out.
Thanks for the information.