Flatline true bypass wiring help

[rosssurf]

I have just finished my first ever build and I think I am hooked. However I have not placed it in a box or wired it up to a true bypass with LED light switch yet. I have searched a bit but cannot find a wiring diagram. Can anyone show me how to wire this up to my 3PDT so I can have an LED to know when it is on?

Also I made a LED/LDR for this with an emittor and detector pair I got from Radio shack. I am getting a bit of distorion when I turn the pots up, Am I possibly using ones with to high or too low of a value?

link to my build.

http://aronnelson.com/gallery/bcreekmur/flatline_compressor[/list]

[rosssurf]

I have a scan in my microsoft word of the values for the LED?LDR combo I have. I was trying to copy it here but I can figure out how to search for the documents I want to insert if I click the "insert image" link .

[jimmy54]

Here yer go Rosssurf

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_3pdt_tb_dcjack.gif

[rosssurf]

Thanks Jimmy. Do you know what the value of R1 going to the LED is?

[chunks717]

technically there is some math to do, but you can usually get away with 2.2k to 4.7k
the bigger the resistor, the dimmerthe LED, the less current draw.
something like that.......................................
I like this link for offboard wiring.........
http://tonepad.com/getFileInfo.asp?id=76   download the pdf file.......

[jimmy54]

I usually go with a 4.7K but the LED is still quite bright.  Can depend on the LED you use.  A higher value will increase battery life.

[twabelljr]

Just for fun, here is a LED current limiting resistor calculator. http://www.muzique.com/schem/led.htm
If you are using a battery to power the effect, I believe it is best to use a high intensity / high brightness LED and
the largest resistor value possible to achieve the brightness you want. That will draw the least current and prolong
battery life.