RIP SAD-3 :(

[spectraljulian]

Playing today, stomped on my Arion SAD-3 the LED came on, but my sound was completely unaltered.  The 3rd fricking delay to crap out on me. 

My rehoused Johnson number broke because I misplaced it, my Dano PB+J came DOA, and now my SAD-3 just craps out, doesn't make any alterations, just lights up.  Won't even be useful as a noise toy.  I just hope I get my PB+J replacement comes from Dano before my next show so I am not delayless. 

Seems like I need to buy more expensive delay pedals.  Which will set me back on when I'm going to start my next project. 

[markm]

There's been lots of good things being written about the PT80 delay.
That would make a Great next project
I'm going to give it a go.
MarkM

[343 Salty Beans]

If you want to go nice commercial, the boss DD-20 is amazing.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

If a box stops simply because you stomped on it, then it is almost certainly the switch. So don't throw it away... either fix it, or give it to someone who wants to try.

[Paul Marossy]

If a box stops simply because you stomped on it, then it is almost certainly the switch. So don't throw it away... either fix it, or give it to someone who wants to try.

+1 

[spectraljulian]

Yeah, that is what I was thinking, but I'm pretty sure it is a single throw, so it wouldn't make sense that the LED is coming on but the rest of the effect isn't. 

[Marcos - Munky]

I'm almost sure that it's an electronic switch, right? So maybe only the part that bypasses the delay is dead. Try to hard wire the in and out jacks directly to the input and output of the effect.

[Dirk_Hendrik]

Sounds like a perfect example of havin a reason to push yourself in learning how to fix things when they're broken. Ocasionally there's some complaint on HC about the wide Pearl effect boxes getting broken  after an adapter with the polarity reversed was used.  Immediately the "throw away" remark follows while usually the only thing that needs to be done is replace the 78L12 regulator..... Learning to fix saves a lot of money on the long term. Especially since the fix is usually dirt cheap.

[phaeton]

I just hope I get my PB+J replacement comes from Dano before my next show so I am not delayless. 

Seems like I need to buy more expensive delay pedals.  Which will set me back on when I'm going to start my next project. 

Hopefully you can get your PBJ replacement, or resolve the switching issue without much... um.... delay.....

(sorry, had to do it)


Seriousry though.  I knew a guy that kept throwing away TS-10s and having to go hunt down new/used ones every few months because they quit working (his band was real busy on the club circuit).  He didn't have the time/money for an 808, and he didn't like the sound of the ones that were in production at the time (TS-5, was it?).  The 10s were out of production at the time and though they were still somewhat plentiful there were times when he couldn't get ahold of one for a show or two, so he'd use his MXR D+ and complain about it for days.  Well, the 10s turn out to be notorious for this- the jacks are soldered directly to the PCB without being anchored to the case, so their soldering gives up early.  Easy fix though!

I didn't know it then, but if I were able to back to 1993 with the knowledge i have now i could have gotten hold of about a dozen 'broken' TS-10s from him for nothing, or i could have fixed them for him, or I could have rehoused one in a Hammond case with the jacks mounted to the case, with true bypass (the TS was the only effect he used).  Made it into real stage-proof workhorse so he'd never have to dick with it again.

But well.... that was then, this is now.

[spectraljulian]

Sounds like a perfect example of havin a reason to push yourself in learning how to fix things when they're broken. Ocasionally there's some complaint on HC about the wide Pearl effect boxes getting broken  after an adapter with the polarity reversed was used.  Immediately the "throw away" remark follows while usually the only thing that needs to be done is replace the 78L12 regulator..... Learning to fix saves a lot of money on the long term. Especially since the fix is usually dirt cheap.

Yeah, I know.   I need to buy myself a soldering gun though.  Tired of borrowing one everytime I want to add an expression jack or do a rehouse.

It's just a bitch, I had everything I want to accomplish monetarily planned out, and then something goes wrong with a pedal.

[spectraljulian]

I think the 4027 is faulty, so I'm going to have to figure out exactly how I would test to see if it was



The SAD-3 is a bit different, but the switching is basicly the same.  I don't really know to much about flip-flops though, I think I was "missing" that day of intro to electrical engineering.  Or something. 

[PenPen]

First off, welcome Spectral. I've seen you on the Shortscale forum also.

You could be right about the TC4027. OR, it could be the 304FC FET down there thats dead. If that jfet died, then you wouldn't ever get the delayed signal either. Check for voltage on the gate of that jfet, or on pin 2 of the flipflop. IIRC if there is voltage there when the LED is on, then its likely your 4027. If there is nothing, then the flipflop chip is likely ok, as long as it changes states from no-voltage when LED is on to voltage when off. If that part is ok, I'd look at the FET as being the problem.

[spectraljulian]

Hey Penpen.  Yeah, I've actually been around here for awhile, it is just that I never post because there are never any projects that I'm working on.  I'll probably be posting here a bit more once I get back into it.  Right now as far as money goes $ for new tubes > $ for 4 track > $ for DIY Cab > other DIY stuff.  Plus I gotta get a fuzz probe sometime.  But once I get to "other DIY stuff" I'll probably post some of my projects and progress here. 

[HeaD]

Hi all,

I've the same problem with a SAD-1 of mine (I got 2). Initially, I've also thought to the flipflop/fet, but I've checked ALL pins voltages, and are the same of the other pedal.

I don't understand... does someone have any ideas? Thanks.