What is the best way to cut veroboard?

Started by plowkraut, June 01, 2006, 11:39:26 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

plowkraut

hey all,
   New guy on this board.  Thinking about doing a dragonfly veroboard project and would like to know if there is a right way to cut the board down to size.  Can I just use a hack saw or is there a better way?  Thanks and nice ot meet you all. :)   plow

Alex C

Hello, and welcome!  Which Dragonfly project are you going to try (not that it matters; they're all great)?

There are many options.  A hacksaw would probably work, but seems cumbersome and messy.  You can score the board with an exacto knife or razor knife, then break.  Another way is to clamp the board in a vise so that a line of holes is along the edge of the vice clamps, and push hard on the part of the board that protrudes in order to snap it off.  It should break cleanly along the row.

I like to use diagonal cutters (the same ones I use to snip component leads), line up the snipping tips with the holes in the board, and squeeze.  After the four or five holes in a row are cut by the clippers, the rest of the board tends to continue to break along this "grain."  I have not tried this on veroboard, however, so I can't say how well it would work.  Perhaps the copper traces would tend to keep it together.

A Dremel or other rotary tool would work as well.

Whatever you choose, good luck, and try not to breathe in vero-board dust!  If you have any problems while building, try a quick search by clicking the "SEARCH" button at the top of the page, and if you don't find what you need, ask away!

-Alex

fixr1984

I've used the Dremel trick also, but like you said its pretty messy with all the dust.
Ive found that scoring it with a knife first then breaking it at the score mark to be the best method.

Connoisseur of Distortion

i have an old box from mouser. within lie the shavings of a buncha boards...

you can keep you space tidy while dremelizing, people, with a touch of creativity.  ;)

choklitlove

Quote from: Connoisseur of Distortion on June 02, 2006, 03:44:16 AM
i have an old box from mouser. within lie the shavings of a buncha boards...

you can keep you space tidy while dremelizing, people, with a touch of creativity.  ;)
i use an old mouser box to set boards on while i drill.  it has a shit load of holes in it.  kind of looks neat...
my band.                    my DIY page.                    my solo music.

MartyMart

I've done this a hundred times :
1 - make sure that you have the size sorted first ! give yourself room to "add/adjust" too
2 - Score carefully with a sharp blade/stanley knife down a steel ruler
3 -  snap off on a straight edge of a table etc
4 - Rub over with some wire wool or a small wire brush
5 - clean with some alcohol and try not to touch the strips

That will work well and take solder very quickly

MM.
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm"
My Website www.martinlister.com

Paul Perry (Frostwave)

I suppose that everyone knows that if you score along a board (vero or not) and then bend it to snap it, the score has to be on the OUTSIDE of the bend.
It's pretty ugly otherwise :icon_mad: :icon_redface:

petemoore

  I used to wonder...but haven't had a pad come loose...
    I'm talking about bending the board hard enough to break the score line...it's gotta stretch the copper/adherance to the phelonic...seems to withstand this well IME.
  Use the score method, a good hand [left hand *beHind the blade] pins the board down, the good right hand pulls a tight angle [to perfect alignment to holes, so as not to create a gash to the side of the score line] as the blade pops from hole to hole across the board...otherwise I'd recommend clamping and a straight edge.
  *Don't use wire cutters from the bottom of the 'not so tall' board, position-aligned to split along the chosen line of holes...like I do all the time..lol...whoops, especially with veroboard which has the board length traces...I was typing about *perfboard.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

plowkraut

thank you all :).  Alex C - I'm going to try the sparkle boost and a stratoblaster from GGG.

Transmogrifox

QuoteAnother way is to clamp the board in a vise so that a line of holes is along the edge of the vice clamps, and push hard on the part of the board that protrudes in order to snap it off.  It should break cleanly along the row.

I've found this and similar variations to be the *neatest*.  I usually just make a mess with a rotary tool & cutter.  Rotary tool allows for cutting more interesting shapes for making things like batteries and switches fit
trans·mog·ri·fy
tr.v. trans·mog·ri·fied, trans·mog·ri·fy·ing, trans·mog·ri·fies To change into a different shape or form, especially one that is fantastic or bizarre.

Floyd Pepper

I've always cut vero's with wire cutting pliers.. It's quick and I've have never had any issues.  I guess it might not cut in a straight line but, so far, it's always worked even on wide perf board where I've had to cut it from one side then turn it round and cut from the other.

Just make the cut in line with the holes and you should be fine. 

nooneknows

I use a little hand saw for metal going from the border of the board perpendicular to the hole that I want to reach, then I use a exacto knife on the line parallel to the border making a trace, then bend, it works fine.

Noplasticrobots

I just use my teeth. Perf is yummy.

I actually use an X-acto knife to score it a few times and then I crack it with a couple pliers. Always works for me.
I love the smell of solder in the morning.

Dragonfly

Quote from: Noplasticrobots on June 04, 2006, 12:12:03 PM
I just use my teeth. Perf is yummy.



you guys and your silly "hi-tech" ways !   ;D

my method is simple...score it with an exacto a few times, put it in the vice, and bend till it breaks along the score...then i use a pair of tin snips to clean up the edges...a belt sander works nicely for the clean up, if you're feeling all "hi-tech" and stuff....

AC