Hi, just starting out.

[Spacedementia87]

I have a decent knowledge of electronics (i have a GCSE in it and my "soldering skills were unparalled!")
I want to start off making some pedals.  I am not new to making circuits i have made quite a complicatded guitar tuner, a CD walkman amplifier and a simple intercom system.

What would be a good project to start on?  (if there is a nice sustain pedal out there that would be nice as i want one of these anyway!)

I think the main deal for me would be making the case rather than the actual circuit!

What is the best way to ground the circiut board?  Use a metal case and put a wire to that?  (despite fiddling inside my old guitar i don't really know the innards of one, does the jack have a line to the wall socket ground through the amp?)

Also i was just wondering if there was a schematic for the fuzz factory available?  I cannot afford one being a humble student!  I am guessing there isn't as it is still in production, no worries if there isn't!

[dano12]

Welcome to the board. You're lucky to be starting out with existing knowledge and soldering skills

There are tons of schematics and projects available. I'd start with the Schematics and Layouts Gallery links you'll see at the top of this page. Then take a look at generalguitargadgets.com and runoffgroove.com. Geofex.com and Muzique.com also have a ton of great resources.

Regarding the case, search the forum for "enclosures" and you'll see lots of good ideas. The most standard approach is to use a Hammond diecast aluminum enclosure--they come in lots of sizes and shapes. Check our SmallBearElec.com and Mouser.com for parts.

As far as grounding, most stompboxes are negative ground so the case itself acts as ground. Here's a great page full of wiring diagrams that show the typcial wiring for stompboxes:

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=172&Itemid=200

If you dig hard enough, you may find a schematic for the Fuzz Factory. However, the general rule is that as DIY'ers (at least on this board) we don't like to pass around schematics for in-production pedals. There are a ton of great Fuzz schematics available otherwise.

[Spacedementia87]

Thank you for the rapid reply.

Currently being in my uni exams i can't really do much work on this, but i wanted to gather all the info first.

when making the wiring in the stomp box i obviously want an indicator LED so i want one of these:

    * True Bypass/LED indicator DC Jack
    * True Bypass/LED indicator DC Jack For a PNP Positive Ground Circuit
    * True Bypass/LED indicator DC Jack, input grounded

Which one do i want?
What is the benefit of the +ve ground or grounded input?
Is the regular one ok?

[petemoore]

  FFactory...there's a 'bunk' version, that's it...yer better off building yer Fuzz to your tastes, I hope a Ffactory schematic doesn't show up, and that Zachary doesn't have to 'persue whomever'.
 If the box and jacks are metal, the ground lug of one of the jacks makes an excellent connection to the jacks in the box, and the box.

[The Tone God]

What would be a good project to start on?  (if there is a nice sustain pedal out there that would be nice as i want one of these anyway!)

There is a beginner project that is a boaster and forum dedicated to it that is a good starting point. You can then move on from there. There are lots of layouts and project available for more common circuits that should not too much trouble for someone with a skill set such as yourself to get going.

What is the best way to ground the circiut board?  Use a metal case and put a wire to that?  (despite fiddling inside my old guitar i don't really know the innards of one, does the jack have a line to the wall socket ground through the amp?)

These topics have been covered before in great detail so check out the FAQs and make use of the function which will give you access to the wealth of information here.

Also i was just wondering if there was a schematic for the fuzz factory available?  I cannot afford one being a humble student!  I am guessing there isn't as it is still in production, no worries if there isn't!

Being new you may not be aware that this can be a sticky topic. Firstly that effect is in production so it is loosely considered off limits. Secondly Mr. Vex has requested that his work not be published here. Thirdly Mr. Vex is an active and contributing member of this forum so it would be disrespectful to post his work here. I'll second the advice of designing/modifying your own circuit to fit you needs.

Andrew

[Spacedementia87]

Yea i completely undersand about the ffactory, sorry for asking.

And don't tell me to design my own fuzz just yet! i don't have any idea how the effects work!  The only think i could design myself would be a simple distotion.

Oh are plastic enclosures ok?
Or do they have to be metal really?

[The Tone God]

Yea i completely undersand about the ffactory, sorry for asking.

And don't tell me to design my own fuzz just yet! i don't have any idea how the effects work!  The only think i could design myself would be a simple distotion.

No problem. I did mention "modifying" a circuit too. Alot of that goes on around here and its a good "safe" way to try things starting with a known good circuit.

Oh are plastic enclosures ok?
Or do they have to be metal really?

The enclosure does not have to be metal but it makes life easier as you do not have to shield the box yourself. You just connect a metal box to ground which is usually done through the jack so it is easy. A common favorite around here are the Hammond series of boxes. Besides being metal for shielding, and easier to machine, they are also very durable.

Andrew

[Spacedementia87]

Edit: sorry wrong place

[petemoore]

  Sfars m mods, reads are super abuntant.
  GEO Tech of FF..
  AMZ Warp control, and Labs Notebook Reads
  Just about everywhere else linked to from near here.
  A cap passes no DC, smaller it is the, the less low freq's it will pass, or, attenuate to a lesser degree. {this is basically true whether wired as LP or HP filter.
  Put that cap in series with the signal path...and you've got a HP Filter.
  Put that same cap From signal path to GRound...you have a LP filter.
  As LP Filter, the larger the cap the more highs it shunts to ground.
  As HP filter, the larger the cap the more lows it'll let through.
  Alot of the other 'moddery' concerns itself with 'gain amounts'.

[Spacedementia87]

When buying the components what is the best things to buy.

I guess the main thing is capacitors. looking at this http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/SupaSustain.gif what type of capacitors to buy?
i am looking at maplins at the moment http://www.maplin.co.uk/family.aspx?menu=27&MenuName=Capacitors&worldid=3&doy=5m6

[Ge_Whiz]

Rapid Electronics (www.rapidelectronics.co.uk) is faster and cheaper than Maplin.

I wouldn't really recommend the Supasustain to begin with. It can take quite a bit of tweaking to get the sound right.

[Spacedementia87]

Very confused about capacitors now!!

What do i want?

Axial Polyester Capacitors
Disc Ceramic Capacitors
Green Mylar
Monolithic Multilayer Dipped Ceramic
Plastic Film Capacitors
Polyester Block Capacitors
Rutilcon Capacitors
Siemens Polycarbonate Capacitors
Silver Mica Capacitors
Tantalum Capacitors

It is for a fuzz now.
I gave up on drawing up the PCB for the sustain, as i was too tired!

[petemoore]

I'm no cap freak
Axial Polyester Capacitors: axial means leads come from both ends of cap
Disc Ceramic Capacitors: 'loose' tolerance may not be desirable
Green Mylar: Use em all the time
Monolithic Multilayer Dipped "Ceramic":
Plastic Film Capacitors: I suppose they're pretty good
Polyester Block Capacitors: Cool
Rutilcon Capacitors: Haven't heard of them
Siemens Polycarbonate Capacitors: Probly good, don't know, don't need to really
Silver Mica Capacitors: Probably closer tolerance, may be hard to tell a difference in a very 'needs to be high spec' position...maybe for use in video it'd be more critical
Tantalum Capacitors: Used by Nasa, SMALL, light, not as temperature sensative IIUC, polarized and easily damaged by reverse polarity.
  I assume you're familiar with 'electrolytic capacitors', they're mostly polarized [some are 'NP' or 'BP' which means 'not polarized' {same as} 'bipolar']. Generally larger values [over 1uf] are only available in electrolytic caps.
  I preferred "Greenies' or AVX Box Caps.
  Metal film caps just seem more expensive for my needs.
  I believe it is 'ceramics' I try to not use much, the 'brownies' [more of a beige really] flat round wafer types [again IIUC, could depend on 'stuff...] are [or may be?] looser tolerance,

[Spacedementia87]

Ahh ok thanks you very much.

Yea i got the electolytics sorted quikly there was just 2 options, radial and axial.

[Spacedementia87]

Oh yea does anyone know a good place to get hold of some 3PDT footswitches and some 1/4"Jack socekts in england?

The jacks aren't too bad (switched or non switched?)
But a durable looking footswitch is quite hard to find.

I know about the store here but it is US based

[Spacedementia87]

Ok there is one other thing i am wondeing about.

Why do you need a sereo jack for the input?

Surely if you put a mono jack in then the sleve and the ring will just be in contact...  So it wouldn't make a difference.

[dano12]

Ok there is one other thing i am wondeing about.

Why do you need a sereo jack for the input?

Surely if you put a mono jack in then the sleve and the ring will just be in contact...  So it wouldn't make a difference.

For switching it on and off. Here's more info: http://beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalPower/

[Spacedementia87]

ahh i get you.

So that the battery/dc jack isn't supplying power when the jack is out?

So this:

Would be equally valid?

[Spacedementia87]

anyone?

Footswitches in the uk?

[jimmy54]

Spacedementia87, I'm in the UK but order all my parts from either small bear in the US or Banzai in Germany.  Both do 3PDT's (and mostly everything else too).  Shipping is not that much.

http://www.banzaieffects.com/home.php

http://www.smallbearelec.com/home.html