How To: Mirror Finish Hammond Boxes

[markm]

I've done this alreay by using a buffing wheel on a 6 in. grider. It works pretty well but when things start to get shiny, all the imperfections show up from the casting process. You can see the swril marks left by the molted metal. You can't really ever get it out.

I've noticed the same swirl in a couple I have polished.
One in particular looked like marble cake a bit.
Sounds like it could look cool but, it really wasn't.
I painted that one!

[tonenob]

Cool.

Consider spraying a clear coat over it to keep it from oxidizing over time and showing fingerprints as oxidized places.

The metal they're made from may be based on aluminum or zinc. Possibly magnesium, but probably not. Both Al and Z will gray with exposure.

I applied a clear coat on the bare metal surface many times but without success. It just won't stick to the enclosure, I could easily scrape it off with my fingernail. I really would love to know how you do it because I want them to have a bare metal finish.

Also, everytime I applied a clear coat, I do not get a smooth coat like what we see on cars' finish. They just have bumps everywhere like a bad rash. Something like the Marshall Cab Simulator build: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.0

How did you guys do it?

Thanks

[rockgardenlove]

How do you get a shiny clear coat?  The same wah you do a shiny metal coat, really.  Spray on some clear.  Do a few coats.  Then start off with 600 grit maybe and use finer and finder paper.  In the end buff it out.

[darron]

How do you get a shiny clear coat?  The same wah you do a shiny metal coat, really.  Spray on some clear.  Do a few coats.  Then start off with 600 grit maybe and use finer and finder paper.  In the end buff it out.

don't try buffing the clear i don't think. that always seems to make things worse. spray the clear on as thick as you can without it running and it will have a smooth finish

[zjokka]

Cool.
Consider spraying a clear coat over it to keep it from oxidizing over time and showing fingerprints as oxidized places.
The metal they're made from may be based on aluminum or zinc. Possibly magnesium, but probably not. Both Al and Z will gray with exposure.

I applied a clear coat on the bare metal surface many times but without success. It just won't stick to the enclosure, I could easily scrape it off with my fingernail. I really would love to know how you do it because I want them to have a bare metal finish.

Also, everytime I applied a clear coat, I do not get a smooth coat like what we see on cars' finish. They just have bumps everywhere like a bad rash. Something like the Marshall Cab Simulator build: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.0

How did you guys do it?

Thanks

Before you start spraying, you should clean it with acetone or lighter fluid to remove dirt and grease and sanding residue.
Smooth surface -> lots of thin layers with proper drying in between. a labour of love.

[rockgardenlove]

How do you get a shiny clear coat?  The same wah you do a shiny metal coat, really.  Spray on some clear.  Do a few coats.  Then start off with 600 grit maybe and use finer and finder paper.  In the end buff it out.

don't try buffing the clear i don't think. that always seems to make things worse. spray the clear on as thick as you can without it running and it will have a smooth finish

I should note that you have to use prefty good lacquer for buffing.  Don't use it with Krylon or something.  But if you use the Duplicolor car lacquer or something hard, it works great. 

[JonFrum]

I've done this alreay by using a buffing wheel on a 6 in. grider. It works pretty well but when things start to get shiny, all the imperfections show up from the casting process. You can see the swril marks left by the molted metal. You can't really ever get it out. I masked out the certain areas, painted the box and then removed the mask revealing the shiny metal letters. Worked pretty good, but takes some work.

I'd use a 6 in. wheel at a bare minimum, and your point about casting is a good one. This stuff isn't made with the intention of being polished - if it was, it would cost more - so you can expect problems with the finished product. I worked in a foundry that made electrical boxes, and I saw a lot of imperfections in boxes that were no problem for the application, but would definitely cause a problem if you tried to get fussy about the surface.

[Meanderthal]

 Beautiful finish!  rockgardenlove is right about the automotive clear gloss lacquer- it's just fine with being buffed. It's also very durable. That's what I used on my sanded brushed-aluminum look enclosures, and it sticks fine, but I didn't polish my enclosures, so it might be that all the sanding scratches are what it's gripping. Multiple light coats are the way to go, just like it says on the can. I've used both the Duplicolor and Plasticoat stuff, both are great.