geo fxrack inspired project *99% finished*

[newbie builder]

Very nice work. I've seen enough of these lately that I've decided I really outta build one- only problem is I haven't found a pedal I love as much as the Tim (my only boutique pedal I use) and I don't want to take the time out and rewire it into a multi-fx setup...maybe I'll just use patch cables to patch it in. Very nice looking work! You should change the LEDs from all blue to all the colors of the rainbow 

[Gilles C]

I had some alumium plates that I decided to cut, based on this pedalboard project, and I began to cut them today.

I cut them at 3.5" x 5" instead of the 3" x 5" used here. I decided that I needed the extra space...

I still have to find how I will build the frame with wood, but I think I will wire an effect with the footswitch and all before I start the frame. I will have a better idea of what I need to do based on how I wire my effects.

So I just wanted to say thanks again for the pictures of the project. It was very very inspiring.

Oh, and I also cut some plates at 9"W x 4.75"H for the bigger projects. The original plates I had were 4.75" x over 12" with a couple of hole always at the same place from plate to plate. So I had to find a way to get the maximum with what I had.

Gilles

[mikey]

In terms of finding materials, I had the need to find som more steel stud material and called a local building supplier. They still stock the stuff. A channel 10' long with a cross section of 1.875" by 5.875 with 1/2" lips (that is, the size of a 2x6 piece of lumber) in 18 gauge steel is $12 and one that's 1.875" x 7.75" is $14, same length. Either of these has enough material for about six footpedal racks if you cut between the perforations, more if you just ignore the perforations on the bottom and cover them up with something.

I had originally planned to use steel stud but I couldnt find any locally, then these vinyl covered pieces fell in my lap.  My chassis ended up being almost the same dimensions of the smaller stud you mention.  If I cant find a reasonably priced  brake soon ( I really dont want to bend another chassis by hand ) I'll have to continue my search for steel stud.

Very nice work. I've seen enough of these lately that I've decided I really outta build one- only problem is I haven't found a pedal I love as much as the Tim (my only boutique pedal I use) and I don't want to take the time out and rewire it into a multi-fx setup...maybe I'll just use patch cables to patch it in. Very nice looking work! You should change the LEDs from all blue to all the colors of the rainbow 

I had some alumium plates that I decided to cut, based on this pedalboard project, and I began to cut them today.

I cut them at 3.5" x 5" instead of the 3" x 5" used here. I decided that I needed the extra space...

I still have to find how I will build the frame with wood, but I think I will wire an effect with the footswitch and all before I start the frame. I will have a better idea of what I need to do based on how I wire my effects.

So I just wanted to say thanks again for the pictures of the project. It was very very inspiring.

Oh, and I also cut some plates at 9"W x 4.75"H for the bigger projects. The original plates I had were 4.75" x over 12" with a couple of hole always at the same place from plate to plate. So I had to find a way to get the maximum with what I had.

Gilles

Good luck with your builds!  Keep us posted.  I'm putting off building another for myself until I get a sheetmetal brake and I'm very interested to see what changes/improvements you make in yours.

[Gilles C]

A sheetmetal brake is indeed the best tool to cut these plates. The place I work work is closing its doors slowly but surely, and I won't have acces to the hydraulic sheetmetal brake we have in the following months or weeks. That's why I decided to cut all the plates I could cut for all my future needs.

Btw this morning, I woke up with an idea. I check the dimensions of the Hammond 1590BB boxes and when I realised it was 3.7" x 4.7" , I decided to cut the rest of the plates to a width of 3.75", the other size being already 4.75", which means more front plates for my effects from the same pieces of aluminium I have. We have to go with what we have.

I'll post my experiments in a new thread when I'm done.

Gilles

[mojotron]

A few ideas to add:

I've used standard electrical box tops to build up all of the prototype pedals. (see page #2 of the 'pictures' thread http://mojotronics.com/images/DCP_1555_small.JPG) And, I really like standardizing on something like those as I can use standard templates for 2 to 6 knob top panels (electrical box tops) and drill out 10 at a time when I run low on 'enclosures'.

Some here have given me the idea to make a rack using the electrical box tops as the faceplates - they are more than sturdy and have enough room. And, if I want one, or a few, to be singles - like if I just wanted to pop out a booster, throw it into the back of a combo and head off to a 'one-pedal' gig - I just drop it into an electrical box-bottom and paint the bottom with truck bedliner - which works really well.

What I was going to do was to also use a standard steel 'erector-set' angle pieces as the overhang and use those clip-on-nuts on the overhang so there would be no drilling and I could move things around - also I could cut a 4x? piece for effects with more knobs or big PCBs. So, when I want to build up more racks, all I have to do is drive to HomeDepot and buy a new hacksaw blade. I think the only issue with this approach is that it would not be screaming 'DIY' - but what the heck - that's me: And, I think so far my electrical boxes look fairly good.

I really like the 1-connector power distribution idea - I thought that computer floppy quick connect connectors could also eliminate/standardize the in/out jacks if one wanted to go that far.

When I get something constructed I will post some pics. For now - these are just some ideas from a guy that hates the cost of Hammonds.

[WildMountain]

Mikey, absolutely fantastic project!!
It's very inspiring, to me as it has been to a lot of other guys here as well, no doubt. I can see all of them sitting at their workbench, planning their own modular multi-effects (as am I at the moment).
A couple of practical questions:
- What are the connectors you used for the power cords? Where did you get these?
- How do the faceplates screw to the chassis? Did you have to tap the threads?

[mikey]

- What are the connectors you used for the power cords? Where did you get these?

http://www.mouser.com/search/productdetail.aspx?R=2-520184-2virtualkey57100000
http://www.mouser.com/search/productdetail.aspx?R=2-520103-2virtualkey57100000

I chose these because the male-female pair were fully insulated.  If one came loose it wouldnt short out on the chassis.

- How do the faceplates screw to the chassis? Did you have to tap the threads?

I drilled 1/8" holes in the faceplates which were slightly larger than the sheetmetal screws I had and used a small bit to get holes started in the chassis to drive the screws through.  Nothing fancy.

[mikey]

A few ideas to add:

I've used standard electrical box tops to build up all of the prototype pedals. (see page #2 of the 'pictures' thread http://mojotronics.com/images/DCP_1555_small.JPG) And, I really like standardizing on something like those as I can use standard templates for 2 to 6 knob top panels (electrical box tops) and drill out 10 at a time when I run low on 'enclosures'.

Some here have given me the idea to make a rack using the electrical box tops as the faceplates - they are more than sturdy and have enough room. And, if I want one, or a few, to be singles - like if I just wanted to pop out a booster, throw it into the back of a combo and head off to a 'one-pedal' gig - I just drop it into an electrical box-bottom and paint the bottom with truck bedliner - which works really well.

What I was going to do was to also use a standard steel 'erector-set' angle pieces as the overhang and use those clip-on-nuts on the overhang so there would be no drilling and I could move things around - also I could cut a 4x? piece for effects with more knobs or big PCBs. So, when I want to build up more racks, all I have to do is drive to HomeDepot and buy a new hacksaw blade. I think the only issue with this approach is that it would not be screaming 'DIY' - but what the heck - that's me: And, I think so far my electrical boxes look fairly good.

I really like the 1-connector power distribution idea - I thought that computer floppy quick connect connectors could also eliminate/standardize the in/out jacks if one wanted to go that far.

When I get something constructed I will post some pics. For now - these are just some ideas from a guy that hates the cost of Hammonds.

That sounds like great idea using electrical box faceplates for a build like this.  When I was first starting to plan mine out I thought about the possibility of removing a module and having some type of enclosure to mount it in for use as a standalone pedal but I couldnt come up with anything practical.  It looks like you could pop the faceplates right off your builds and into a rack or vice versa and have the best of both worlds whenever it suited you.  Can't wait to see what you come up with.

What are the dimensions of those outlet faceplates anyway?