Hao Rust Driver Schematics

[astley]

any one have Hao Rust Driver schematics?

[MartyMart]

Build "The Crank" or ROG's "Peppermill" instead ... both are WAAAYYY better
( boosters with some grit, Rust Drivers are poo & suck some top end also )

MM.

[warioblast]

http://matsumin.gozaru.jp/diy/jisaku_fx/RUST_DRIVER/index.htm

[Mark Hammer]

A very very simplified approach to a TS/Dist+ hybrid.  Assuming this schematic (http://matsumin.gozaru.jp/diy/jisaku_fx/RUST_DRIVER/HAO_RUST_DRIVER_ori.BMP) is accurate, we may note the following:

• Stage 1: Gain of 3.3, low end rolloff of 28hz, phase inverted relative to input.
• Stage 2: Fixed gain of 470 (combined gain of x1551 with Stage 1), low end rolloff at 1591hz, high end rolloff at 282hz, phase inverted again to make output phase-coherent with input.
• R27/R28 attenuate signal level by approximately 1/3.

If you like it, build it.

[Phorhas]

I built this schmatic and really nice sounding... kinda of a one trick pony - but it sure does the trick well. It gives you a nive cranked up 70's tone... something in the lines of the Allman Bros. and Lynard Skynard

[MartyMart]

You could change the 470k for a 500k pot ... gain control
Add a 100uf PSF cap, protection diode and a 10uf at the VB joint ... done !

MM

[astley]

thanks all~~~ give me some suggestion~

[warioblast]

Did you see this one ?
http://matsumin.gozaru.jp/diy/jisaku_fx/RUST_DRIVER/HAO_RUST_DRIVER_mod.BMP

[astley]

Did you see this one ?
http://matsumin.gozaru.jp/diy/jisaku_fx/RUST_DRIVER/HAO_RUST_DRIVER_mod.BMP

that link is dead , but this link can see!! http://matsumin.gozaru.jp/diy/jisaku_fx/RUST_DRIVER/index.htm

[JHS]

The RD is a simple one trick pony, work best with Fender BF amps and a Gibson.
On the Japanese site is the schem for the old version.

Adding a protection diode an better filtering will destroy the tone complete, the plexi vibe gets lost.
On higher gain settings it will get noisy, but with the 490k it sounds OK and the noise is acceptable. I've done the gain pot mod, but the best tone is in the 500k area.

The goal to good tone is the chip, I use a LF353 from Motorola, it's not the best choice for the RD, but LF353 from other manufactures sounded like crap compared to the Motorola. Many newer Japanese FX use the Motorola LF444 or 412 but I don' have them to compare.

I've have found another schem for the RD from a different source, IC is LM358N, the diodes are asymetrical arranged, diodes are Toshiba 1S2473. The BIAS devider is altered too, a bit stiffer, maybe done to suit the softer sounding 358 better.

JHS

[MartyMart]

Adding a protection diode an better filtering will destroy the tone complete, the plexi vibe gets lost.

I do hope that you're joking with this comment  !!!

A PSU filter cap and reverse protection diode are across the 9v line and are nothing to do with the
"signal path"

[warioblast]

Did you see this one ?
http://matsumin.gozaru.jp/diy/jisaku_fx/RUST_DRIVER/HAO_RUST_DRIVER_mod.BMP

that link is dead , but this link can see!! http://matsumin.gozaru.jp/diy/jisaku_fx/RUST_DRIVER/index.htm

cut & paste the url, it will be fine.

[JHS]

Adding the diode is OK, but soften the tone a bit.

The RD seems to be very sensitive to mods in the BIAS divider. I added the 1uF from Matsumins mod page from VREF to ground, the result was more treble bite and a tighter sound, like switching from a 50W to a 100W. Raising it to 10uF plain foil give more treble and a softer attack, with a 10uF tantal  the tone was kind of steril, all with a battery, with a Carbon the tone was more middy compared to a alkaline. With a 100uF from + to ground the overtones were artificial sounding and the RD was less touch sensitive.

With a good filtered power supply like the VooDoo Lab the tone had a bit more headroom and treble and the RD produce a really tight tone, adding a 100uF didn't alter the tone anymore.

I made the same experience with a TS-9 some time ago. Adding a 100uF to the Bias divider of the TS-9 convert it to the stiffer sounding TS-10 sound and eliminating the 100uF in the TS-10 convert it to TS-9 sound (all with battery supply). With the VooDoo Lab supply the tone was much tighter with more treble and headroom. The 100uF didn't change the tone anymore if it was present or not. In the end I leave the 100uF in and reduced the supply voltage on the chip to 8V in the TS-9 to make it sound like bat powered and w/o the 100uF.

I often use the Bias divider from the Barber pedals for new designs, very good, nearly no difference between supply via the DC jack, carbon- or alkaline battery. Sometimes I put a 10-100n in parallel with the Diode to filter out the added hiss the diode injects.

A lot of Japanese/Chinese TS-clones use a 10k/10k/10uf/10uF Bias divider with the new JRC4558D, with this divider the new chip sounds less harsh producing  a tone like the old chip with the classic divider. ARIA often use a asym. Bias divider in their TS-clones (8,2k/10k) to soften the tone a bit.

I had a similar experience with a net-socket distributer for computer with a varistor spike protection.
All amps and FX connected to the distributor sounded very strange, with thin treble and artificial overtones caused by the varistor in the net-distributor.

JHS

[MartyMart]

Thanks JHS, Interesting stuff ... I had no idea that PS caps etc would effect the sound at all !!
I take it that the VB parts are nuch more important, is a PSU is used over battery ?
Cheers,

Marty.

[Torchy]

@ JHS ...

   Ive never seen any Barber schematics, how is his bias arrangement different ?

[WGTP]

I have noticed battery voltage effecting the tone, but hadn't thought much about the bias network effect, except that using 8.2/10 creates asymmetrical clipping from the op amp.   

[smank]

...
I've have found another schem for the RD from a different source, IC is LM358N, the diodes are asymetrical arranged, diodes are Toshiba 1S2473. The BIAS devider is altered too, a bit stiffer, maybe done to suit the softer sounding 358 better.

JHS

Hi JHS,
Please can you tell me more about this different schematics? Do yoy have an image or a link?
I need to modify a Rust Driver for a friend, so I would understand it before open the box...
Is there anyone that know how works (schematics point of view) the switch on newer version of the Rust Driver?

[JHS]

The schem differ only in details to the one from Matsumin.

IC =LM358N
D1/2/3=1S2473 (BOSS-style)
Vol-pot =100kB
bias divider with additional 10uf and 1uf caps and additional protection diode =1N4002

On the newer RSs is a switch, I have no idea how it's wired, "bright" sounds oddly bright, and "warm" extreme dark and muffled.

JHS

[smank]

Thanks!
I know too the position brigth and warm are not so useful...

[kusi]

hi,

the tone-switch is in the Feedback-loop of the second gainstage. it switches between 3 capacitors;
1200pF - none - 2200pF (normal - bright - warm)


best greetings,
markus