vero board for 3pdt? can we build it?

Started by edad, July 24, 2006, 02:29:11 PM

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edad

I came across a thread about making a pcb for the blue 3pdt switch,also adding the led and resistor.Im wondering if someone has done this on vero board,since Ill never get to making my own pcb,doing it on vero makes sense for new builders ?? maybe some of the layout masters have already done this

newbie builder

Don't think that'd work- you wouldn't be able to utilize the middle pole.
//

QSQCaito

It'd MAYBE work if you put the 3pdt in the center of the veroboard, but u would have to redesign the veroboard.. u where asking to put the 3pdt on the board right??

bye bye

hope it helps

DAC
D.A.C

edad

bummer,ok then is there anyone here who makes their own pcbs that would make a small batch up for sale?Id like a few for up coming projects, anyone?? thanks :icon_lol:

Noplasticrobots

It would probably easier if you could find PCB mount 3PDT.
I love the smell of solder in the morning.

petemoore

  If you could find a switch that matches veroboard hole spacing...
  other than that I guess it's a job for PCB's.
   I would guess that it'd be possible to just work a 1sided copperclad board with just a knife, a V chisel, and a straight edge w/stop clamp jig...Never tried this...
   Set a piece of thin cardboard on a flat surface, then press the switchlugs to it to mark the hole spacing, drill, use as template for drilling the board, get rid of the clad where necessary....
  I'm typing blind, I've never tried etching of any kind, you Could though, as I understand it, use a sharpie to do the artwork, and this will prevent etchant from touching where the sharpie ink has been applied, thickly, a few times, to the copper.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

Toney


This whole thing has me a little puzzled ???

Where is the advantage time-wise with these?

You still have to wire the little board BUT you have to spend all that time etching/drilling and making the darn things.

Surely the few minutes it takes to wire the 3PDT are nothing compared to the time its going to take.

It will look neat though....

soggybag

I'm not sure what you are talking about. But, I made a PCB that holds 3PDT switch and input out put jacks and has perfboard for building your effects. I have a few of these left for sale.

Here's a picture:


I made a few effects with the boards. Here are a few links to some layouts that I posted to my site.
Rebote 2 Delay:
http://www.webdevils.com/stompbox/index.php?m=10&y=05&d=02&entry=entry051002-214726

Big Muff:
http://www.webdevils.com/stompbox/index.php?m=11&y=05&d=14&entry=entry051114-234545

Ugly Face:
http://www.webdevils.com/stompbox/index.php?entry=entry060621-144100

When I started working out the idea I made a few tests with perfboard. I built a BSIAB 2 and a Tripple Fuzz on perfboard with switch and jacks on the PCB. I posted some notes to my web site:
http://www.webdevils.com/stompbox/index.php?m=06&y=05&d=28&entry=entry050628-143827

Toney



Now THAT does make sense.
Nice idea, Soggybag.

soggybag

Thanks Toney, I've made several projects with the boards so far. The most complex was a Rebote 2 delay, I made two of these, and they worked out well and everything fits in a B sized box. The B sized box fit a lot of effects that people would normally put in a BB box. The limit for me comes from the number of knobs. If an effect has more than 4 knobs, unless you're using really small pots and knobs, it's tough to get them to fit comfortably on a B box.

The box needs some more attention when drilling. If your using lose jacks the position of the holes is not critical, but for the PCB the jacks need to be in the right spot. All of the boxes I've done so far with hand tools a ruler and a triangle an they all work, I just spend more time on the box than before.

Any effect that I build is now is self contained on the PCB and can be fit into any box that has the right number of knob holes on the top.